CHAPTER VII.
ST. SAUVEUR.
Pont de Pescadère—Sassis—Gave de Gavarnie—St. Sauveur—Hôtel de France—Pont Napoléon—Napoleon's pillar—Bee orchids—Chapel of Solferino—The view from thence—Ne'er a hermit but for gold—Luz cemetery—Luz post-office—Short cuts—Pharmacie Claverie—Jardin à l'Anglaise—Ascent of Pic de Bergons—Villenave—The shepherds' huts—Lunch—Snow, its use and abuse—On foot—"Excelsior"—Dangerous footing—The last crest but one—The view—Gavarnie and Argelès in sight—A lazy guide—A "fast" bit—Mountain flowers—Mr. Sydney to the fore—A short walk and a good view—To Sazos and Grust—The bathing establishments—Sazos: the old church—The belfry—Chiming extraordinary—Various promenades—Gems of hill and vale
CHAPTER VIII.
GAVARNIE.
A "falling glass"—The wonderful echo—Cascade Lassariou—Sia and its bridge—Pont de Desdouroucat—"Changing scenes"—Bugaret torrent—The Piméné—Bué—Gèdre—Brêche de Roland in the distance—The "Grotto"—Scenery at fivepence per head—Daffodils—Lofty summits—Cascade d'Arroudet—Chaos—Valley of the "Ten Thousand Rocks," Amoy—A dirty avalanche—The Sugar-loaf—Travellers' troubles—Importunate females—Hotel des Voyageurs—Poc—Guide or no guide—Chute de Lapaca—The guardian summits of the Cirque—Cascade du Marboré—Chandelles du Marboré—The Cirque—Its marvellous beauty—Reluctantly returning—"The Guide's Auction"—"Two women enough for a market, and three for a fair"—A Yankee tale—Sketching and flowers—Tempers and appetites
CHAPTER IX.
FROM LUZ AND ST. SAUVEUR TO BAGNÈRES DE LUCHON.
A smiling valley—Lourdes again—The chapel in the crypt—St. Peter's statue—Burnished toes—Solemn quietude—Preparing for the great pilgrimage—"Ornamented" crosses—Mr. Sydney's new vocation, "Guide, Philosopher, and Friend"—Bigorre again—An open-air concert—Harmonious echoes—Paying through the nose—The fête at Payole—Sport à la française—Costumes—The view from the Col d'Aspin—Arreau—Quaint houses—La Chapelle de St. Exupère—A whining "gardien"—Eglise de Notre Dame—The river Neste—Hôtel de France—Bordères—Avajan—Louderville—Oxslips and cowslips—Wild narcissus—Col de Peyresourde—The view—Garin—Cazaux—St. Aventin—Lovely avenues—Our destination
CHAPTER X.
BAGNÈRES DE LUCHON.
The bathing establishment and its surroundings—The lovely Allées—Montauban church and cascade—The Villa Russe and its genial host—Various excursions—Orphanage of Notre Dame de Rocher—The Vallée du Lys—The Rue d'Enfer and cascades—A lively scene—The view from Superbagnères—Loading wood—"The Oxen's Appeal"—Visit to the Orphanage—A "holy" relic—To Bosost—St. Mamet—"A stumbling-block"—Cascade of Sidonie—Horse tricks and jockey dodges—Lizards in flight—Fashion on a donkey—On the Portillon 'twixt France and Spain—The valley of Aran—Snug Bosost—A curious inn—Children with artistic bent—A bright pathway—Missing much, but thankful still
CHAPTER XI.
ST. BERTRAND DE COMMINGES.
Keeping to old friends—Valley history—Entering the Garonne valley—The picturesque St. Béat—St. Béat to Viella—Memories of the lovely Thames—Baths of Ste. Marie—Loures—The cross-roads—Weak walls—Entering St. Bertrand—An ancient house—The inn—A charming garden—The cathedral—A national disgrace—"The Crocodile of St. Bertrand"—The tomb of Hugues de Chatillon—Travelling desecraters—St. Bertrand's rod—The ruined cloisters—Desolation—Swine feeding—Montrejeau—The buffet—No milk!—French railway officials—Trying experiences
CHAPTER XII.
EAUX BONNES AND EAUX CHAUDES.
Carriage v. diligence—Early birds—Height of absurdity—Diminutive donkeys—A whitened region—"Crystal clear"—Washerwomen and their gamps—A useful townhall—A half-way house—Moralising—A much-loved pipe—An historic ruin—A noteworthy strong box—"Ici on rase"—Where are the bears?—Women in gaiters—Picturesque costumes—A lovely road—A "perfect" cure—A spring scene—A billiard-playing priest—A well-placed pavilion—The Valentin and its cascades—Through solid rock—Gaps in the road—A grand scene—Wanted, an artist—A fine torrent—Professional fishers—Lucky guests—Musings—Poor Mr. Tubbins—Bonnes v. Chaudes—Over the Col de Gourzy—Peculiar teams—Guelder roses—Spinning
CHAPTER XIII.
BIARRITZ.
A warm ride—Bayonne—A "Noah's ark" landscape—Amusements—Bathing—Shells—Cavillers—A canine feat—The pier and rocks—A restless sea—"The Three Cormorants"—Dragon's-mouth Rock—To the lighthouse—Maiden-hair ferns—Mrs. Blunt's adventure—The drive round the lakes—Osmunda regalis ferns—The pine-woods near the bar—St. Etienne and the Guards' cemetery—Croix de Mouguère—Cambo and the Pas de Roland—Anemones—A fat couple—A French scholar—Hendaye—Fuenterabia—A quaint old-world town—The Bidassoa—Pasages—San Sebastien—The Citadol and graves—The "Silent Sisters"—Raised prices—Parasols and spectacles
CHAPTER XIV.
CONCLUSION.
"Where duty leads"—Resorts in the Eastern Pyrenees—Caen—"Riou"—Our paths diverge—"The Lesson of the Mountains"—Farewell
* * * * *
APPENDIX A
APPENDIX B
APPENDIX C
APPENDIX D
INDEX
MAP OF THE PYRENEES
DAX
THE TOWER OF MONCADE, ORTHEZ
PAU (FROM THE JURANÇON SIDE OF THE GAVE)
THE CASTLE COURTYARD
IN THE CASTLE PARK
THE PINE FOREST NEAR THE COL D'ASPIN
THE "PALOMIÈRES DE GERDE"
LOURDES (A SMALL GENERAL VIEW)
THE "OLD FORT" AT LOURDES
ON THE ROAD TO ARGELÈS
A "REGULAR Fix" (by Miss BLUNT)
A PRETTY BIT AT ARGELÈS
CAUTERETS
THE ASCENT OF THE COL DE Riou (by Miss BLUNT)
THE LAC DE GAUBE
THE GORGE NEAR PIERREFITTE
THE ANCIENT CHURCH OF THE TEMPLARS AT LUZ
THE CASTLE OF STE. MARIE
BARÈGES
ST. SAUVEUR
PONT NAPOLÉON, ST. SAUVEUR (by Miss BLUNT)