The Bays of Si’it and Tu’tu’ indent the island to such an extent as to leave only a neck of land, less than 4 miles wide, connecting the middle and eastern parts of the island. The settlement of Si’it lies at the head of the bay and in the immediate vicinity of a small lake of the same name. The shores of the Bay of Tu’tu’ are marshy and are covered with mangrove trees. The bay is very shallow to a considerable distance from shore. Tu’tu’ is the principal settlement near the head of the bay.
Sulu Island.
The backbone of the island is a mountain range which runs east and west and lies nearer to the northern shore. The highest point is Mount Tumangtangis, at the western extremity of the range. This mountain reaches a height of 853 meters above sea level and descends very rapidly to the western coast near Timahu. A spur of the mountain terminates in Point Pugut at the northwestern extremity of the island.5
Toward the east, the ridge descends to a much lower level at Bud Datu, Bud Agad, and Bud Pula, which lie immediately to the south of Jolo. It rises again in Mount Dahu to an altitude of 716 meters. Mount Dahu is a prominent landmark and forms the most picturesque landscape in the background of Jolo. It is a steep and conical extinct volcano, similar to, but smaller and more regular in form than Mount Tumangtangis. East of Mount Dahu is another gap in which lies Tambang Pass. Beyond this the range rises again at Mount Tambang and continues uninterrupted to Mount Sinuma’an, at the extreme end of Lati, and Mount Bagshag. After Mount Bagshag the range descends gradually toward Su’ and Si’it. The northern slopes of Mount Tumangtangis and Mount Dahu, and the crest of Bud Datu are covered with grand forests, while the crests and lower slopes of Bud Agad and Bud Pula are partly cultivated and partly covered with tall grass.
From the shores of the Bay of Jolo the land rises gradually and presents a beautiful green appearance. The northern aspect of this whole range and its beauty were appropriately described by Mr. Hunt, as follows:
There are few landscapes in the world that exhibit a more delightful appearance than the seacoasts of Sulu; the luxuriant variety of the enchanting hills exhibits a scenery hardly ever equaled and certainly never surpassed by the pencil of the artist. Some with majestic woods that wave their lofty heads to the very summits; others with rich pasturage delightfully verdant, with here and there patches burnt for cultivation, which form an agreeable contrast with enameled meads; others, again, exhibit cultivation to the mountain top, checkered with groves affording a grateful variety to the eye—in a word, it only requires the decorations of art and civilized life to form a terrestrial paradise.6
To the south of Bagshag7 lies a small extinct volcano called Panamaw or Pandakan, whose crater is now a lake. East of Si’it rise the Lu’uk mountains of Urut, Upao, and Tayungan. From these the range extends to Bud Tandu at the eastern extremity of the island.
The highlands near the southern coast of the island divide into three separate regions. The first and westernmost lies west of Maymbung and forms the principal highlands of Parang. The highest points in this region are Mount Tukay, east of the town of Parang, and Mount Mabingkang, east of Tukay. To the east of Maymbung rise Mount Talipao and Mount Kumaputkut, which form the middle and second region. The third region is the southern part of the Lu’uk country. Its highest point is Mount Bulag, to the north of Tandu-Panu’an.
Between Mount Tukay and Mount Tumangtangis lies Bud Gapang. Midway between Mount Talipao and Bud Datu is Mount Kumuray, in the neighborhood of Langhub.
The largest streams on the island are Tubig Palag and Bina’an. The first is generally known as the Maymbung River. It passes through the settlement of Maymbung and empties into the head of the bay of the same name. It drains the southern slopes of Mounts Tumangtangis, Pula, Dahu, and Kumuray. The Bina’an stream drains the southern slopes of Mount Sinuma’an and the northern slopes of Mounts Talipao and Kumaputkut and empties into the Bay of Tu’tu’.
Principal coast settlements
Beginning at Jolo and going west along the northern coast we pass the following points of interest: The first is Point Baylam, the western limit of the Bay of Jolo. At the head of the small bay that follows lies the settlement of Matanda, where a Spanish blockhouse marks the western limit of the Jolo line of fortifications. Next comes Point Mangalis and the receding beach of Bwansa, the old capital of Sulu. Here and in the next bay, at Malimbay and Kansaya, Samal boats assemble in favorable weather for fishing. Back of these settlements the land rises rapidly to Mount Tumangtangis. A teak forest of considerable size lies between Tumangtangis and Jolo.
Outside of the wall of Jolo and to the east lies the settlement of Busbus, where criminals formerly were chopped to death after being tied to a tree. A mile beyond is Mubu, where the old residence of Sultan Harun stands out prominently. Copious springs of fresh water issue at this place at a point near the high-water mark. A mile farther east we come to Tandu (point or cape), where Datu Kalbi lives. This point is generally known as Tandu Dayang Ipil8 and marks the eastern limit of the Bay of Jolo. The isolated hill of Patikul rises immediately behind Tandu. The settlement of Patikul lies still farther away on the beach. Here lives Datu Julkarnayn (Alexander the Great), the brother of Datu Kalbi. The beautiful region lying between Patikul and the mountains of Tambang and Sinuma’an is called Lati.
Buhanginan lies about midway between Patikul and Higasan. At the latter place or Tandu Manuk-manuk the shore line recedes toward the south. Opposite this point lies the Island of Bakungan. Next comes the larger settlement of Taglibi, above which rises Mount Ta’ung; then Bunbun, near a point which marks the western entrance into the Bay of Si’it. Midway between Bunbun and the head of the bay is Su’, which may be said to mark the boundary line between Lati and Lu’uk. Si’it is a small settlement near the head of the bay. Beyond Si’it the shore line turns north until it reaches Kansipat. About 2 miles farther, a semicircular reef off the shore makes the excellent and well-protected small harbor of Bwal. A large spring of pure, fresh water adds to this place another natural advantage, one which gave it the prominence it had in former days. The entrance into the harbor is very shallow and allows only sailboats of light draft. The channel lies close to the shore on the west side. Opposite the Island of Tulayan lie Tandu-batu and a little farther inland Kuta Makis. Limawa lies about 3 miles farther on near a point opposite the Island of Bŭli Kuting. Behind this island and at the head of a shallow cove lies Patutul, the chief settlement of Tandu. East of Bud Tandu is Tandu Pansan, the easternmost point of the island. The eastern coast is exposed to storms and appears rocky and barren, though the hills behind it are well cultivated.
The first point on the southern coast is Tandu Panu’an, behind which lies the settlement of Sukuban. This marks the southern extremity of the boundary line between Tandu and Lu’uk. The country behind Kuta Sihi’ and Pitugu appears rich and well tilled. The hills come down to the beach. Near the point at the eastern limit of Tu’tu’ Bay lies Kambing. The neighboring country is rich and prosperous. It is governed by Maharaja Bayrula, one of the wisest and best chiefs of Sulu. West of Kambing lie Pandang-pandang, Tŭbu-manuk, and Tu’tu’. The shore is a continuous mangrove marsh, while the country behind is about the richest and best tilled land on the whole island. The western side of Tu’tu’ Bay has few places of importance. The country behind is picturesque and hilly, but not as well populated as other parts of the island. Lubuk, Kabungkul, and Lumapit are the chief settlements.
Beyond the point of Buhangin Puti’, the shore line bends again north and the Bay of Maymbung begins. Here mangrove swamps are extensive and extend a good distance inland. The greater part of Maymbung is built on piles over the water. It is surrounded by swamps on all sides. After the tide recedes, strong odors arise from the muddy bottom to such an extraordinary degree