It doesn’t happen though. The lights go on but only for 3 km more. In Zarici you find a pension, all decked out like a castle. In the entrance there is a gallows with a dummy hanging. Ominous perhaps? You go up to your room. Wait a minute. A quick look from the outside confirms it. You are staying in a turret. How cool is that!
Gallows.
My turret.
Zarici to Olomouc: Beautiful beautiful Olomouc
Wednesday March 24, 2010, 37 km (23 miles) – Total so far: 414 km (257 miles)
It’s not far at all to Olomouc. You arrive by 12 and spend the rest of the day wandering about town. Olomouc is a wonderful city. Very livable. But there’s no one else about the hostel so there’s not really any point to stay. Otherwise Olomouc would make a great rest day or 2. But as today already is pretty much a rest day.
Olomouc to Moravsca Trebova: Damn that headwind
Thursday March 25, 2010, 83 km (52 miles) – Total so far: 497 km (309 miles)
Yesterday was pretty much a rest day so it is back on the road again today. You follow the bike paths but even then you still manage to get yourself lost. On the outskirts of town you stop to fix the mp3. Just ahead a branch breaks off a tree and lands on the path in front. Missed it by that much. A little further out the path disappears entirely as you trudge through the mud.
Bouzov castle looks pretty cool but alas you are a week too early for a tour. Restaurants are also closed.
Just an easy day today. No need to ride too much. Except there’s a biting headwind.
Moravski Trebova to Pardubice: Penzion where are you?
Friday March 26, 2010, 128 km (80 miles) – Total so far: 625 km (388 miles)
Lots of snow today. You head to Policka trying to find this castle but it looks like it doesn’t exist. Oh wait, there it is on the map you got from the tourist office. Oh well. Too late now. Policka is nice though with a nice square and plague column. No pensions in Chrudim so you keep riding to Pardubice.
And now oh so sleepy. Cannot write. Not another.
Gallows.
No snow here.
Pardubice to Nova Pecka to…: Riding around in circles
Saturday March 27, 2010, 125 km (78 miles) – Total so far: 750 km (466 miles)
It is already 9 pm. It is cold. There’s snow everywhere. And there is nowhere to stay. Prices are outrages. Penzions cannot be found. And now you have a flat. 16 km to Jicin. Looks like a long hard slog but there will be places to stay there. If only it isn’t too late.
Days are usually biting cold until around 11. It gets hot but an icy wind keeps the coat on. It cools down some by 5 or 6. 8 pm is still warmer than 10 am. But not today. Today is icy cold all day. True, it does warm up some but then it cools right down again. On go the gloves. On go the mittens. Yes, there are mittens. Want to know a cool trick? Socks make great mittens. Especially on a long descent.
You passed through a couple really beautiful towns. You detour to Kuks because you remember reading about it in the guidebook. You reread the section on Kuks. Give it a miss. Oh.
Bike trails have you riding on dirt tracks along the river Lube and through a muddy field.
You fix the flat and move on. Oh, and your headlight is almost dead as well. Fortunately a big round moon helps shine your way. The road to Jicin has for the most part a nice shoulder. But, and take it from someone who knows, it is not good for the shoulder to end when high beams are being shone into your eyes.
Jicin to Strad pod Ralskem: This looks familiar
Sunday March 28, 2010, 85 km (53 miles) – Total so far: 835 km (519 miles)
In true form you get well lost trying to find Kost castle. On muddy tracks you ride (push) around in circles. Eventually Kost is found and wouldn’t you know it. You’ve been here before. 3 years ago you chanced upon this most exquisite of castles, even managing to camp outside its walls.
You also spot the remains of another castle high up on a high in the middle distance. Anyway, it is already 3. Time to put some kms in before nightfall. Today’s destination is Liberice.
You stick to the road rather than brave the poorly signposted bike paths. It is 5 before you see just how far/close you are from town. 24 km. That is possible to make before 7 barring any big hills. Barring any big hills.
But what is there in Liberice anyway? It is a convenient stopover on the way to Lemburg castle. But coming from the south it is more like an inconvenient detour. So you go to Straz pod Ralskem instead.
A hotel is found. It has the cyclisto stamp of approval. This is to show that the hotel is of quality standard. What THAT means is that it is not cheap. But this 1 is. Very cheap. The room isn’t much but food and pivo are at hand. Speaking of which.
Kost castle.
To Litericice
Monday March 29, 2010, 98 km (61 miles) – Total so far: 933 km (580 miles)
It is a very wet day. All day. You detour to see a castle. It is of course closed and after a couple wet outside photos you just ride on. The area around here is quite pretty with lots of rock formations. Houses are built around and into many of the rocks.
The plan is to ride towards Litericice. Wasn’t going to get here but when a map FINALLY says how close the town was then, well, why not go? Besides, there isn’t anywhere to sleep before then anyway. Litomerice is a pretty place.
You drink a pivo in the bar. Someone offers a joint. Sure, why not?
Litomerice to Praha: Spaced
Tuesday March 30, 2010, 70 km (43 miles) – Total so far: 1,003 km (623 miles)
Finally a nice sunny day. Too bad about that headwind though. And a lack of maps has you riding along the busy highway