This pretty garden includes many types of plant – such as trees, climbers and shrubs – that need pruning to help them grow well and look good.
Flowering shrubs
Flowering shrubs, from Forsythia to Weigela, usually need yearly pruning to encourage the regular production of flowers.
Ornamental trees
Ornamental trees invariably need less pruning than shrubs, but it is essential during their early years to create a strong framework of branches.
Roses
All roses need yearly pruning, regardless of whether they are bush types (Hybrid Teas and Floribundas), climbers, ramblers or standards.
Hedges
Hedges, from those grown for their attractive leaves to ones that become smothered in flowers, all need regular pruning.
Tree fruits
Tree fruits, such as apples, pears, plums and peaches, need careful pruning during their infancy to create a strong and well-spaced framework of branches.
Bush and cane fruits
Bush and cane fruits, ranging from black currants to raspberries, require yearly pruning to encourage the regular production of fruits.
WHY PRUNE PLANTS?
If woody plants – from shrubs and climbers to fruit trees and bushes – are neglected, they become unsightly and unproductive. Additionally, their life-spans are shortened and they become havens of delight for pests and diseases.
Pruning is essential for most plants, although some, such as the evergreen Aucuba japonica ‘Variegata’ (Spotted Laurel), create spectacular features each year with no regular pruning. However, Philadelphus (Mock Orange) can soon become an entanglement of old, non-flowering stems if yearly pruning is neglected.
Some shrubs, such as Sambucus racemosa ‘Plumosa Aurea’ and Sambucus nigra ‘Aurea,’ are grown for their attractive young foliage, which is produced by cutting all stems right down to ground level in late winter or early spring. Without this severe treatment, these shrubs would not be nearly so attractive. Some Rhus species, including Rhus typhina ‘Dissecta,’ can be treated in the same way.
Changing climates
With the advent of global warming, the seasonal influence of winter – which dictates when many plants are pruned – may change. Traditionally, shrubs that flower during late summer and into autumn are not pruned until late winter or early spring. This is because, if they were pruned as soon as their flowers faded, any young, tender shoots that subsequently developed would be damaged by frost. Even now in some areas the late-flowering Buddleja davidii (Butterfly Bush) can be pruned in autumn, rather than at the traditional time in spring. Even if a few young shoots of this shrub are damaged by early frosts, there are others to replace them.
It is impossible to suggest with any certainty what the pattern of weather will be in a couple of decades’ time, but gardeners will have to take a flexible attitude at least to the pruning of late-flowering shrubs, which are normally pruned in spring.
GETTING THE TIMING RIGHT
It is the influence of a cold period within the yearly cycle of a plant’s growth that mainly influences the time when it is pruned. For example, woody-framed plants such as apples and pears are pruned during winter when they are dormant. At that time, as well as being inactive, they are free from leaves and fruits and the tree’s structure can be clearly seen.
Flowering shrubs have a different nature and pruning is dictated both by the season when the shrub produces its flowers and the cold period in its yearly cycle of growth. For example, shrubs such as Forsythia that flower early in the year can be pruned as soon as their flowers fade. There is then sufficient time for new shoots to develop and to mature before the onset of harsh winter weather. However, those shrubs that flower late in summer have their pruning left until spring. If they were pruned as soon as their flowers faded, their newly developing shoots would be damaged by winter weather. For example, Fuchsia magellanica flowers from mid-summer to mid-autumn and is pruned in spring, when young growth will not be damaged.
Deciduous Magnolias resent pruning; wounds do not heal.
Avoiding pruning problems
Trees with sappy wood, such as Aesculus (Horse Chestnuts), Betula (Birches), conifers and some Maples (Acer), are likely to bleed if cut during summer when their sap is flowing strongly. Therefore, they are best pruned in late autumn or early winter.
Most ornamental and fruiting trees are pruned during their dormant period. However, nectarines, peaches, cherries, and plums are especially susceptible to bacterial canker and silver leaf disease when cuts are made during their dormant period. Therefore, wait until their sap is rising in spring.
This beautiful display, which includes flowering and foliage shrubs as well as climbing roses and other climbers, needs regular pruning to ensure that it creates a spectacular feature each year.
CHANGING STYLES OF ROSE PRUNING
For many years, the pruning of bush roses such as Hybrid Teas and Floribundas has involved pruning shears. To many gardeners, this is an essential facet of growing roses each year to produce the best quality and number of flowers. However, experiments in pruning bush roses have involved using electric hedge-trimmers to cut down all stems, with cuts being made irrespective of their positions. Some surprisingly good results have been achieved in this way, but for most gardeners the traditional way of individually pruning bush roses gives greater satisfaction and involvement.
PRUNING DOS AND DON’TS
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