If the distance between the pins is less than 10 cm (4 in), you are crocheting too tight and you need to make another swatch using a bigger crochet hook. And if the measurement is more than it should be, your crochet is too loose and you will need to use a smaller hook.
Check your row tension is correct in the same way. Once you’ve worked out what size hook you need to use, use this size of hook for the garment instead of the size stated in the pattern. If other sizes of hook are needed, you’ll need to adjust the size you use here too – if you’ve used one size smaller hook to get the tension required, use one size smaller hook than stated for all the other hooks you need too.
FOLLOWING A PATTERN
All the garments in this book are in more than one size, and the different figures needed for each size are given as a string of figures inside square brackets [ ]. Where only one set of figures is given, this refers to all sizes.
The information inside the round brackets ( ) should be repeated the number of times given after the brackets.
The amount of yarn the pattern says you will need is based on an average requirement and if you alter the length you may need more or less yarn. Each pattern has been designed to work in the yarn stated – and it may not work correctly if any other yarn is used.
The pattern gives details of the order in which you should crochet the different pieces that go together to make up the completed item. This order should be followed as often a later piece will need you to refer back to the size of a previous section, or some pieces need to have already been completed in order to add an edging or band.
CROCHET ABBREVIATIONS
| Conversions | Terminology | |
| UK (US term appears in parentheses) ch – chain (chain) ss – slip stitch (slip stitch) dc – double crochet (single crochet) htr – half treble (half double) tr – treble (double) dtr – double treble (treble) ttr – triple treble (double treble) yoh – yarn over hook (yarn over) skip/miss (skip) tension (gauge) | alt – alternate beg – beginning cont – continue dc2tog – (insert hook as indicated, yoh and draw loop through) twice, yoh and draw through all 3 loops on hook) dec – decreas(e)(ing) foll – following inc – increas(e)(ing) patt – pattern rem – remain(ing) rep – repeat RS – right side sp(s) – space(s) st(s) – stitch(es) tr2tog – (yoh and insert hook as indicated, yoh and draw loop through, yoh and draw through 2 loops) twice, yoh and draw through all 3 loops on hook WS – wrong side 0 – no sts, times or rows to be worked for this size cm – centimetres in – inches mm – millimetres |
IMPORTANT NOTE TO US READERS!
All abbreviations in the pattern instructions are UK terms. Be sure to use the handy table on this page to convert UK crochet terms to US crochet terms.
COMPLETING THE GARMENT
Once all the main pieces have been crocheted, the garment can be sewn together. It’s often a good idea to press the sections first. This is much easier to do before they are sewn up – especially with small pieces like those that make up a baby garment. You should find all the information you need to press the pieces on the ball band but, if in any doubt, it is usually safe to press the pieces carefully on the wrong side using a warm iron and covering the work with a damp cloth. However, if you are using a totally synthetic yarn, use a cool iron and a dry cloth! Allow all the pieces to cool down and dry naturally before sewing them together.
With each pattern in this book there is a little diagram that shows you the shape each main crocheted piece should be when it is completed. Use these as a guide to what shape your work should be once pressed.
The crocheted pieces can be joined together in 3 ways – by back stitching the seams, over sewing the seams or by crocheting the edges together. Whatever type of seam you decide to work, use the same yarn for the seam as used for the crochet and, in the case of sewn seams, a blunt-pointed sewing-up needle.
Back stitching a seam
This type of seam gives quite a bulky seam on the inside of the garment but can be useful if the edge isn’t totally straight, or to join shoulder seams.
To back stitch a seam, hold the 2 edges to be joined right sides together and work a line of back stitch as close to the edge as you can, working each stitch through both layers of the crochet.
Over sewing a seam
This gives a totally flat seam and it’s a good idea to use this type of seam to join side and sleeve seams.
To over sew a seam, hold the 2 edges to be joined with their right sides together and simply over sew along the edge, working each stitch through both layers. Once the seam is complete and the sections are opened out, you should find this type of seam is virtually invisible and almost totally flat.
Crocheting a seam
This type of seam is a good choice for seams like shoulder seams as it is as elastic as the crochet is and will not split when the garment is put on or taken off.
To crochet a seam, hold the two edges to be joined with their right sides together and attach the yarn at one end of the seam. Using the same size crochet hook as used for the main sections, work a row of double crochet along the edge, working each stitch through both layers.
If there are any buttons, ribbons or trims to be added to a garment it is very important these are very securely attached so there is no risk of them coming off. Babies and toddlers suck everything, and put anything they can in their mouths, and they could easily choke on a button!
THE CROCHET STITCHES
Crochet is very simple and basically consists of just a few different types of stitch.
Starting the work
Before you start any crochet, you need to make your first stitch.
To make this first stitch, make a slip knot by forming the yarn end into a loop and hooking the ball end of the yarn through this loop (fig. A).
Gently pull on the free end of the yarn (not the end leading to the ball) to tighten this first stitch around the body of the hook. You are now ready to make the next lot of stitches. All the following stitches should be worked using the length of yarn that leads to the ball, leaving the free (cut) end of the yarn to be used to sew a seam later if required (fig. B).