There are a few different options to consider when you make your purchase:
Length: You can choose a cutting blade from 18 to 40 inches long. The longer blades require more skill to use, so if you are just starting out, stick with 30 inches or less.
The easy-reach model has a long shaft and looks like a line edger with a hedge trimmer attachment (in fact, you can buy a multi-head unit with both hedge trimmer and line edger attachments). This style is indispensable for trimming high hedges or shrubs. It comes with a cutting blade between 20 and 25 inches long.
Single- or double-sided blades: Double-sided cutting blades can be useful, but many people prefer a single blade. The choice is yours; try out both styles if you are not sure which is right for you.
Articulating blade: This is only an option with the easy-reach models. Depending on the model, you can change the angle of the blade from 0 to 150 degrees to accommodate what you are cutting.
Best names: Shindaiwa, Echo, Redmax, Stihl, Husqvarna.
Author’s recommendation: Shindaiwa AH230 articulated, double-sided, easy reach.
4.5 Power Rakes
A power rake is not essential for start-up, but is a useful tool if you think you will offer power raking services as your business grows. Power rakes are also called vertical mowers or dethatchers. They have rotating tines that cut into the lawn to remove moss and thatch. If you are planning to purchase a power rake, consider the following features:
Independent or attachment: Power rakes can be purchased as independent units or as attachments to your mower. The attachments don’t stand up well to commercial use, and they don’t do as thorough a job as the actual power rakes, although they are more productive (faster) and much cheaper, too. If your customer wants to reduce the thatch level in the lawn a little, then the attachment may suffice. If you will be completing a lawn renovation or rejuvenation, you should choose a full power rake.
Reel types: There are three types of reels available for power rakes: spring tines, flail blades, and slicing blades. The type you choose will depend on your application. Flail blades have square teeth that basically flail the lawn and remove anything not firmly planted (i.e., moss and thatch). These do by far the best job for both moss and thatch removal. Spring tines are similar to flail blades, except they have skinnier, lighter-duty tines. Slicing blades are not useful for removing moss and thatch and are discussed in section 4.6 on overseeders.
Best Names: Ryan, Bluebird, Classen, Billy Goat.
Author’s recommendation: Ryan Ren-o-Thin Power Rake.
4.6 Overseeders
While the best overseeding method is to first top-dress the lawn with sand or soil and then spread seed, this may not be practical for larger lawns due to the labor-intensive nature of top-dressing. This is why you may want to invest in an overseeder.
Overseeders are similar to power rakes, but they have two main differences:
• The reels are different. Overseeders have slicing blades that are in a fixed position and rotate vertically, cutting into the ground. They do a good job of preparing the soil for planting grass seed because they create little grooves for the seed to fall into.
• Overseeders have a hopper in which you put the seed. The seed is then dropped gradually onto the ground as you move along.
If you plan on buying an overseeder, look for one that you can convert into a power rake by changing the reel.
Best names: Ryan, Bluebird, Classen, Billy Goat.
Author’s recommendation: Billy Goat OS Overseeder (converts to a power rake by changing the reel to flail blades and removing the seed hopper).
4.7 Aerators
Core aerators are used for aerating or coring lawns. Aerating is a great little profit-making service, so at some point you may want to purchase your own aerator.
The most common type of aerator has a rotating reel under the deck, with hollow aeration tines that are pushed into the ground by the weight of the machine (most have detachable weights that can be added or removed as needed). As the machine drives itself along, cores are ejected through the end of the tines as new cores enter. While there are subtle differences between the various brands, any of these types will serve you well in the residential market.
The Ryan LA-28 aerator, however, is in a class by itself. It differs fundamentally from the common aerator in that the tines are driven into the ground with piston action force, not simply by the weight of the machine. As well, it has independent drive and aerating functionality and a tricycle front end that allows for a zero turning radius and nonstop aerating. It also boasts 12 holes per square foot on the first pass, which is more than any other walk-behind aerator.
There are also trailer aerators, which you would probably only consider if you chose aerating as a specialty and were planning on aerating acres of lawn.
Best names: Ryan, Bluebird, Classen, Billy Goat.
Author’s recommendation: Ryan LA-28 if you plan to aggressively market your aerating services; otherwise the Ryan Lawnaire IV.
4.8 Other Power Equipment
There is other power equipment that you may need depending on where you live and what services you will be offering your customers.
• Chain saw. Even though you are likely not an arborist, a chain saw comes in handy for pruning medium and larger limbs of trees and cutting landscape ties.
• Pole saw. This is a telescopic pole with a small (6- to 12-inch) chain-saw blade on the end. If you will be pruning trees, this is a good investment. Remember, if you purchase a multi-head tool for line edging and/or blade edging, you may be able to get a pole saw attachment as well.
• Pressure washer. This is a valuable tool for both you and your customers. You can generate income with it by offering pressure-washing services to your customers, and you can also use it to keep your own truck clean.
• Rototiller. Earn extra money by offering to till people’s gardens each year.
5. Hand Tools
5.1 Fertilizer Spreaders
Fertilizer and lime/sulfur applications are a good way to generate extra revenue and offer your customers full lawn care service.
There are essentially two types of spreaders: the drop spreader and the broadcast spreader (also known as a rotary spreader). The drop spreader offers maximum control of material distribution, but it takes much longer to spread. Unless you are looking after golf courses or higher-end lawns, the drop spreader is more than you need.
Broadcast spreaders come in a variety of sizes and qualities, and you will find that you get what you pay for. In the $100 range you will find good-quality spreaders, but don’t expect more than a year or two of service out of them. In the $300 range you get a product that will last a number of years. You can also buy broadcast spreaders that will attach to your rider mower.
Look for these signs of quality in the push models:
Pneumatic tires (as opposed to plastic): The bigger the better for use on the roughest terrain.
Adjustable settings: You want to control how much fertilizer comes out of the spreader. The better models allow finely tuned calibration.
Side baffle: Controlling where your fertilizer goes is the biggest challenge with broadcast spreaders. A side baffle allows you to cruise