Houseplant Handbook. David Squire. Читать онлайн. Newlib. NEWLIB.NET

Автор: David Squire
Издательство: Ingram
Серия:
Жанр произведения: Техническая литература
Год издания: 0
isbn: 9781620082331
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greater stability to plants, especially those with a mass of foliage

       are unlikely to dry out as fast or as completely as peat-based types

       have a larger reserve of minor and trace plant foods than peat-based types

       are suitable for most houseplants

      Peat-Based Composts

       are more uniform than loam-based composts

       are easily carried home in bags and stored (seal the bag’s top by folding it over)

       are light and easy to use

       dry out more quickly than loam-based types and are more difficult to remoisten if watering is neglected

       require plants to be fed at an earlier stage in their growth than with loam-based composts

      Other Types of Compost

      The continued removal of peat from peat beds has destroyed the environments of many animals, birds, insects and native plants, so there has been pressure to use more environmentally friendly composts. These are formed of several different materials, some of which are also used as additives to other composts to help retain moisture. Look for peat-free composts when buying soil-less types.

      Specialist Composts

      The range of plants grown indoors is wide, and it is clear that just one type of compost will not suit them all. Most flowering and foliage houseplants grow well in loam-based or peat-based composts (but do not change the type of compost when repotting a plant). Specialist plants, such as cacti and bromeliads, need types better suited to their specific needs. These can be purchased from garden centers and specialist outlets.

      For healthy plants, sunlight and the correct ambient temperature for the species are vital.

      Light and Warmth

      Sunlight is essential for plants to grow, and it must be in balance with temperature. In the wild, these are usually in harmony: as light intensity rises, so does the temperature. However, in homes—especially in winter—the temperature may be high but the light intensity low. Adjustments can be made to the temperature, but the temperature is usually selected to suit people rather than plants.

       The intensity of light varies from one season to another, as well as throughout the day. In the plant directory in Part Two, the amount of light needed in winter and summer is indicated for each plant.

       Light intensity rapidly decreases as distance from a window increases. The amount of illumination at 8ft (2.4m) from a window is 5–10% of that of the light reaching a windowsill.

       Temperatures vary throughout the year; those to suit plants in winter and summer are indicated in the individual listings in Part Two.

       In general, flowering houseplants need more light than those grown mainly for their foliage, while cacti require good light at all times.

       Plants should not be moved suddenly from dull light to strong light.

       Keep windows clean, especially during winter when light intensity is low. In summer, sheer curtains help to diffuse strong sunlight.

       Rooms decorated in light colors reflect more light than dark shades—a major benefit in winter.

       Leaves and stems soon turn toward the light source, causing distortion. Counteract this by turning plants a quarter of a turn every few days.

       In winter, plants close to windows may receive good light but be exposed to drafts from ill-fitting window frames, causing flower buds to fall off.

      The Need for Water

      Like all living things, plants are mainly formed of water and, if deprived of it, eventually die. Some, such as cacti and other succulents, have water-storage mechanisms in their leaves and stems, but most plants need a regular supply. The amount required varies through the year and is influenced by light intensity and temperature.

      Water the compost and allow to drain.

      Watering a Houseplant

      There are several ways to water a houseplant. The usual method is “over the rim.” This involves using an indoor watering can to pour water into the space between the top of the compost and the rim of the pot. Allow water to seep into the compost and drain through it into a saucer. After about 10 minutes, tip away excess water from the saucer.

      Alternatively, where it is essential not to moisten the leaves (especially those that are hairy and soft, such as saintpaulias and Episcia cupreata), stand the pot in a bowl shallowly filled with water. When moisture rises to the compost’s surface, remove the potted plant and allow excess water to drain.

      How to Judge If a Plant Needs Water

      More houseplants die each year from too little or too much water than for any other reason. Judging when to water is a skill derived from experience, although in recent years several specialized pieces of equipment have helped to take the guesswork out of this task. Year-round water requirements for individual types are indicated in the plant directory in Part Two. Here are several practical ways to judge if a plant needs water.

      1 A handy “when to water” guide is that water is needed if the surface of compost in a pot has a light color. Conversely, when the compost is dark, it is probably sufficiently moist.

      2 Place the clay pot on a flat surface and, without holding onto the pot, tap it with an empty sewing thread spool spiked on a bamboo cane. If this produces a ringing sound, the plant needs water; if the sound is dull and heavy, water is not required. (This technique does not work on plastic pots.)

      3 It is possible to use a finger to test the compost’s surface, but this eventually compacts the compost.

      4 Moisture-indicating strips—sometimes known as watering signals—can be inserted and left in the compost to indicate the need for water.

      5 Moisture meters (devices for assessing the moisture in compost) are accurate but involve inserting a spiked probe into the compost and getting a reading on a dial. Doing this repeatedly damages roots.

      Dry compost is light in color.

      Tap to check for dryness.

      Gently feel the compost for moisture.

      Moisture meters are accurate.

      Saving a Plant with Exceptionally Dry Compost

      Sometimes, compost becomes exceptionally dry, especially if watering is neglected in the summer or during vacations.

       If neglect is only superficial, stand the plant on a well-drained surface and water the compost two or three times. At each watering, the compost expands and makes it better able to retain moisture when more water is applied.

       If a plant is dramatically wilting, remove dead flowers and leaves and stand the plant in a bowl shallowly filled with water. When water seeps up to the surface of the compost, remove the plant and allow excess moisture to drain.

      Place plants that do not like getting their leaves wet in a bowl of water to absorb water from below.

      Rescuing a Plant with