8 x 2 x 2 in. (203 x 51 x 51 mm)
1: Using a pair of compasses, mark out the top piece to a 10 in. (254 mm) diameter circle and cut to shape.
2: Choose the best surface to be the top and, with the compasses still set to give a 5 in. (127 mm) radius, mark off six equal points around the circumference of the top piece. Join these six points with pencil lines and, on these, mark the three leg positions for drilling, 1.75 in. (44 mm) in from the edge.
3: These three holes are drilled at a compound angle of 20° from the vertical. This can be done by eye, but only if you are very experienced. There are various techniques to help you get this angle right. A simple way is to use a carpenter’s sliding bevel set at 20° as a guide when drilling.
4: However, a more accurate method of working is to construct a pre-drilled guide block, as shown here. When correctly made and clamped to the work, all you need to do is drill into the stool seat through the hole in the guide block.
5: Where a pillar drill is available, it is best to tilt the stool top and drill vertically into it. To do this, tilt the stool top up at the prescribed angle by raising one end on a block. Another, more secure, method is to make a tilting-table arrangement, as shown. Use a protractor to measure the angle of the table top, which is fixed by means of a supporting block. By aligning each pencil line on the stool top with a center reference line drawn on the tilting table, consistently angled holes for the stool legs are assured.
6: Drill three 1 in. (25 mm) diameter holes through the top. A saw-toothed bit is recommended (see Tools & Techniques chapter for advice on drills).
7: Clean up the sawed edges of the top and bevel the edges for comfort.
8: Now turn your attention to the stool legs. These can be turned on a lathe, if one is available, using the dimensions given. However, stool legs were frequently shaped using a drawknife or spokeshave, either to a roughly round section or an approximately hexagonal shape. You could also use a plane.
9: No matteer which technique you use, the legs must be tapered at the top to form carefully made round tenon joints 1 in. (25 mm) in diameter and about 2 in. (51 mm) in length. This is best done with a spokeshave, but you can also use a rasp or file.
10: Form each joint individually and try it frequently for size in the appropriate socket in the stool top. Bear in mind that although the joint should be a good fit, it does not have to be too tight at this stage because it will be secured later by wedging.
11: When all three legs fit, mark pencil lines on their ends to indicate the orientation of the saw cuts needed for the wedges. It is important that the wedges are inserted at right angles to the grain of the wood of the stool top. Otherwise, the force of the wedge could easily split the wood.
12: Remove the legs and make 1.25 in. (32 mm) saw cuts for the wedges.
13: Following the dimensions given, make three wedges. Always use a hardwood for the wedges. Make sure that the grain runs down the length of the wedge and not across its width. Try using wood of a contrasting color to give the wedges an added decorative touch.
14: Clean up all the component pieces. Prepare to assemble the stool by first inserting a little glue into each leg socket. Next, fit the legs so that their tops protrude slightly through the top of the stool.
15: Align each leg so that the wedges will lie at right- angles to the grain of the seat (see step 11 above).
16: Stand the stool upright on a flat, solid surface. Fit the wedges and tap each one partway in using a ha mmer. Then tap each one again in turn until they are tightly fitting. The weight of a hammer is better for this than a wooden mallet. Check the stability of the stool, wipe off any surplus glue, and leave it to dry.
17: When it is dry, saw off the protruding stub ends of the legs and wedges so they are almost flush with the stool seat, taking care not to damage its surface. Clean off the saw marks with a sharp chisel or block plane.
18: Saw or rasp off the inside bottom edges of each leg close to the angle made with the floor surface. Then smooth the completed stool with an abrasive paper and apply a suitable finish (see Finishing chapter for advice). Traditionally, milking stools were left unfinished.
Traditional Whirligig
The easiest definition of a “whirligig” is “a type of wind-driven toy,” although spinning tops, beetles, and swivel chairs have also been known by this name. Actuated by all types of mechanisms, and driven by an assortment of different propeller designs, they can be much more complex than the word “toy” suggests. Whether whimsical weather vanes or wind-powered wonderments, they are often painted in bright colors. Their objective is entirely non-functional and their intention is simply to entertain and delight. Whirligigs were particularly popular in the United States during the 19th century, and they are now enjoying something of a revival.
ABILITY LEVEL
Novice/Intermediate
SIZE
20 x 18 x 1.5 in. (508 x 457 x 38 mm)
MATERIALS
Wood, waterproof plywood, metal
CUTTING LIST
Wood
1 platform
16 x 1 x .875 in. (406 x 25 x 22 mm)
1 pivot block
3 x 1 x .875 in. (76 x 25 x 22 mm)
1 drive shaft. block
3 x 1.5 x .875 in. (76 x 38 x 22 mm)
1 propeller hub
3 x 3 x 1 in. (76 x 76 x 25 mm)
4 pieces dowel
5 x .5 in. (127 x 12 mm) diameter
1 small wooden bead
Waterproof plywood (or wood)
Figure parts, axe, propeller blades, tail, chopping block
24 x 12 x .25 in. (610 x 305 x 6 mm)
Metal