Fig 19
Machining the Blocks Together
5 Take the squares to be used in the top row of the design. Arrange them in a line as in Fig 20. If you need to check how they will look finally, pin the corners of each block into its centre as described in the tip above.
Fig 20
6 Take the first two blocks in the row to be joined together. They will be stitched together along the marked lines indicated in Fig 21. Place the two squares together with the unmarked sides facing and the two marked stitching lines positioned on top of each other. Match the marked mid-line points at either end of the stitching lines exactly and pin together (Fig 22). The corners of the blocks should also match each other, but this is less important – don’t worry too much if they don’t. Pin through all layers in two more places, checking that the marked lines are exactly matched.
Fig 21
Fig 22
7 Use a thread on the machine that matches as closely as possible the fabric of the folded squares. If the two squares to be joined are different colours, use a matching thread for the top square of the layer and a different colour thread in the bobbin to match the bottom square of fabric. Fiddly, I know, but necessary if the stitching is to remain unseen in the final design.
8 It is the stitching at either end of the marked lines that is the most visible in the finished design, so it is best not to start and finish stitching at these places. I begin about 1⁄4in (6mm) from the end of the marked line and stitch towards the outer edge (Fig 23). At the end of the marked line, absolutely on the edge of the fold, I sink the needle into the fabric, lift the pressure foot of the machine and turn the fabric round through 180°. Then I stitch along the marked line until I get to the other end. Again, I stop right on the folded edge, lift the foot, turn the work through 180° and stitch back along the line for about 1⁄4in (6mm) before finishing and cutting the threads.
Fig 23
9 Repeat this to join the next fabric square to the joined pair. Continue to pin and stitch the whole row of squares together to make the top row of the design.
10 Pin and stitch the design in horizontal rows. Press the corners of the stitched seams to the centre of each block and pin in place (Fig 24).
Fig 24
‘I thought the stage of joining the rows by machine was going to be really tricky, but it proved to be surprisingly easy.’
Joining the Rows by Machine
11 Take the top two rows of the design and place them together with the unmarked sides facing and the marked stitching lines positioned on top of each other as before. Match the mid-point marks exactly and pin either side as in Fig 25. Add more pins to fix the two marked lines exactly on top of each other and stitch as before, stitching across the matched mid-point marks from one end of the pinned squares to the other. Start and finish 1⁄4in (6mm) from the ends as in step 8. If the stitching does not always run exactly through the drawn lines on both sides of the work, don’t worry – all that matters is that it is a perfect match at the junctions where the mid-point markings lie.
Fig 25
12 Repeat this to join the next row of squares to the design. Join all the rows together in this way to complete the background design. Once done, the corners of the blocks can be pressed to the centre and stitched into place, following steps 1–5 in Stitching the Folded Square on page 19. Now move on to Adding the Windows, below.
Adding the Windows
1 Measure from the centre of a folded square diagonally to one corner. Subtract 1⁄4in (6mm) from this measurement. This is the size of the square of fabric that will make the window. For the folded square that began as an 8in × 8in square cut one window measuring 23⁄8in × 23⁄8in (6cm × 6cm).
2 Two background folded squares when joined together create a centre square on point (Fig 26). This is where the extra square of window fabric is positioned. Pin the window in place, keeping the pins in the centre area, not around the edge (Fig 27).
Fig 26
Fig 27
TIP
If you want to use a specific area of a piece of fabric in the window such as a flower or star, you need to cut a square template in the appropriate size from template plastic so that you can position it exactly in the right position on the fabric before drawing round it and cutting it out. Remember that the window is arranged on point as in Fig 27, so place the template on the fabric to match this. The outer 1⁄4in (6mm) of the cut square will be lost when it is covered by the curved edge of the background fabric (Fig 28). For most fabrics I just cut squares of the required size with a rotary cutter and ruler as usual.
3 Trim the window fabric down if necessary until about 1⁄8in (3mm) of the background fabric shows on all sides. If your fabric is bulky you may like to cut a slight curve along each side to reduce the bulk when the background fabric is rolled over it. If so, do not trim away at the corners of the window fabric – leave them at the original 1⁄8in (3mm) distance from the background fabric.
TIP
To give the window a smooth, slightly rounded finish I sometimes cut a smaller square (about 11⁄2in × 11⁄2in/3.8cm × 3.8cm) of thin wadding and place it on to the background square before laying the window square on top of it. This is especially useful when the window is a fine fabric or silk, which tends to sink into the centre seam and show a slight crease along it.
4 Starting at the top centre corner (the corner that has the seam joining the two folded squares underneath it), roll the surrounding border on one side of the window over it, stretching the bias edge to create a curve. Don’t be afraid to really stretch that edge so that the curve measures at least 1⁄4in (6mm) in the centre. Pin the curved edge at the centre as in Fig 28.
Fig 28
5 Beginning about 1⁄2in (1.3cm) from the corner, stitch the rolled edge down with a hemming stitch or tiny spaced backstitches placed close to the folded edge. I prefer backstitch but choose whatever stitch