you’re an experienced mountain or desert hiker with good, sturdy boots, consider the unmaintained Hermit Trail
, which begins at Hermit’s Rest, 8 miles west of Grand Canyon Village at the end of Hermit Road. It’s a 5-mile round-trip hike to Santa Maria Spring (the trail plunges 1,600–1,700 ft. in the first 1.5 miles) and a 7-mile round-trip hike to Dripping Springs. Water from these two springs must be treated with a water filter, iodine, or purification tablets, or by boiled for at least 10 minutes, so you’re better off just carrying sufficient water for your hike. Beyond Santa Maria Spring, the Hermit Trail descends to the Colorado River, a 17-mile hike from the trail head. Note that Hermit Road is closed to private vehicles March through November; during these months, you’ll need to take the shuttle bus to the trail head. If you take the first bus of the day, you’ll likely have the trail almost all to yourself.
The Grandview Trail , which begins at Grandview Point 12 miles east of Grand Canyon Village, is another steep, unmaintained trail that’s only for the most physically fit hikers. A strenuous 6-mile round-trip hike leads to Horseshoe Mesa, 2,600 feet below the trail head. No water is available, so carry at least a gallon. Just to give you an idea of how steep this trail is, you’ll lose more than 2,000 feet of elevation in the first .8 mile down to Coconino Saddle.
Even more challenging is the Tanner Trail , which starts just downhill from the parking lot at Lipan Point, near the east end of Desert View Drive. It’s so rarely used that the National Park Service doesn’t even mark it on the maps it hands out to park visitors (probably for good reason—the park service doesn’t want to have to rescue folks who might collapse from dehydration hiking back up). Once a trail used by horse thieves to move stolen horses between Utah and Arizona, it’s one of the shortest, steepest, and most challenging trails into the canyon. Passing through the hottest part of the canyon, it’s exposed to the sun most of the day; the trail is badly eroded, with a loose, slippery gravel section along the Redwall Limestone formation, raising the imminent risk of a serious, potentially deadly fall. You must be in excellent shape, with good knees and strong quadriceps, and don’t even think of setting foot on this trail unless you’re wearing very sturdy boots with excellent ankle support. Take lots of water and drink it. How far can you hike on this trail? Well, that’s up to you. It’s 3 miles and a 1,700-foot elevation drop to Escalante Butte, where there’s a good view of Marble Canyon, Hance Rapids, and the bottom of the canyon.
Backpacking
Backpacking the Grand Canyon is an unforgettable experience. Although most people simply hike down to Phantom Ranch and back, there are many miles of trails deep in the canyon. Keep in mind, however, that to backpack the canyon, you’ll need to do a lot of planning. A Backcountry Use Permit is required of all hikers planning to overnight in the canyon, unless you’ll be staying at Phantom Ranch in a cabin or dormitory. Only a limited number of overnight hikers are allowed into the canyon on any given day, so it’s important to make permit requests as soon as possible. You can submit permit requests in person, by mail, or by fax. Contact the Backcountry Information Center, Grand Canyon National Park, P.O. Box 129, Grand Canyon, AZ 86023 (www.nps.gov/grca; 928/638-7875 for information Monday–Friday 1–5pm MST; fax 928/638-2125). The office accepts written permit requests 5 months ahead, starting the first of every month. In person, verbal permit requests can be made only 4 months in advance. Holiday periods are the most popular—if you want to hike over the Labor Day weekend, be sure to make your reservation on May 1. If you show up without a hiking permit, go to the Backcountry Information Center adjacent to Maswik Lodge (daily 8am–noon and 1–5pm) and put your name on the waiting list. When applying for a permit, you must specify your exact itinerary, and once in the canyon you must stick to that itinerary. Backpacking fees include a nonrefundable $10 backcountry permit fee and a $8 per-person per-night backcountry camping fee, on top of the park entry fee you’ll pay when you arrive at the Grand Canyon.
There are campgrounds at Indian Garden, Bright Angel Campground (near Phantom Ranch), and Cottonwood; hikers are limited to 2 nights per trip at each of these campgrounds (except November 15–February 28, when 4 nights are allowed at each campground). Other nights can be spent camping at undesignated sites in certain regions of the park.
Maps are available through the Grand Canyon Association (www.grandcanyon.org; 800/858-2808 or 928/638-2481) and at bookstores and gift shops within the national park.
The best times of year to backpack are spring and fall. In summer, temperatures at the bottom of the canyon are frequently above 100°F (38°C), while in winter, ice and snow at higher elevations make footing on trails precarious (crampons are recommended). Plan to carry at least 2 quarts, preferably 1 gallon, of water whenever backpacking in the canyon.
The Grand Canyon is a rugged, unforgiving landscape, and many people might prefer to backpack with a professional guide. To arrange a guided backpacking trip into the canyon, contact Discovery Treks (www.discoverytreks.com; 480/247-9266), which offers 3- to 5-day all-inclusive hikes with rates starting at $975 per person.
Organized Tours & Excursions
Bus Tours
Rather leave the driving to someone else so you can enjoy the scenery? Opt for a bus or van tour of the Grand Canyon with Xanterra South Rim (www.grandcanyonlodges.com; 888/297-2757, 303/297-2757 outside the U.S., 928/638-2631 for same-day reservations). To book these, call the numbers listed, or stop by the transportation desks at Bright Angel, Maswik, or Yavapai lodges in Grand Canyon Village. You’ll pay $27.50 for a 1½-hour sunrise or sunset tour, $36 for a Hermit’s Rest tour, $65 for a Desert View tour, or $80 for a combination of any two tours.
Excursions into the canyon’s depths on muleback are very popular—make reservations months in advance.
Trail Rides by Mule & Horse
Mule rides into the canyon have been popular since the beginning of the 20th century, when the Bright Angel Trail was a toll road. After looking at the steep drop-offs and narrow path of the Bright Angel Trail, you might decide this isn’t exactly the place to trust your life to a mule. Never fear: Wranglers will quickly reassure that you they haven’t lost a rider yet. Three-hour mule rides meander along the Rim through the forest to eventually arrive at the Abyss, a spectacular viewpoint along Hermit Road. Overnight mule trips go all the way down to the canyon floor at Phantom Ranch, where cabins and dormitories are available. From November to March, a 2-night Phantom Ranch trip is offered; other times of year, you’ll ride down one day and back up the next. Mule trips range from $143 for the 3-hour ride, to $600 for an overnight ride, to $863 for the 2-night ride. Couples get discounts on overnight rides. Riders must be at least 9 years old; weigh less than 200 pounds fully dressed; be at least 4 feet, 7 inches tall; and speak and understand English fluently. Pregnant women are not allowed. Especially in summer, these rides often book up 6 months or more in advance (you can make reservations up to 13 months ahead). For more information or to make a reservation, contact Xanterra Parks & Resorts (www.grandcanyonlodges.com; 888/297-2757 or 303/297-2757). For last-minute bookings (up to 5 days ahead of your desired date), contact Xanterra South Rim at its Arizona phone number
