Getting around
Bonaire has no public transit system. Visitors can use a taxi (call one by dialing +599-717-8100) or, more commonly, can rent a car or truck from one of the major rental agencies on the island. Renting a pickup truck is most popular among divers in Bonaire given the accessibility of shore diving sites and the ability to carry plenty of tanks and gear safely in the bed of the truck. Reserve your choice ahead of time, particularly if you require one with an automatic transmission,
as standard transmission cars far outnumber automatics on the island. North Americans will be comforted to learn that driving is on the right side of the road, although do not be surprised by the absence of traffic lights – Bonaire relies on traffic circles or roundabouts to manage traffic flow through intersections.
Scooters, quads (four-wheel all-terrain vehicles) and pedal bicycles of various formats are also available for rent. It does not often rain on the island outside of the rainy season (from December through March), but when it does rain, the roads can get very slippery. Be careful and obey the speed limits (which are posted in kilometers per hour). Roads are also narrow and not always in the best shape – particularly some of the dirt roads that service the sites in the northwest. Also, pay attention to road signage: In particular, the Queen’s Highway converts from a two-way to a one-way road at the 1000 Steps dive site. Once past that point, you will have to continue along the highway to Karpata before heading north to Rincón and looping back to Kralendijk by way of the Kaminda Sabana Piedra Krus road, which briefly runs along the east coast.
Environment
Weather
Bonaire has a very dry and mild climate, with consistently warm temperatures no matter the time of year. Average highs range from 90°F (32°C) in August down to 86°F (30°C) in December and January. Average lows show little variation from month to month, ranging from 77°F (25°C) to 81°F (27°C) throughout the year. Bonaire’s rainy season is from December through March, and though a regular daily shower might be expected during this time, the rain does not stick around for long. Bonaire lies outside the Caribbean hurricane belt.
Water temperatures in Bonaire are also quite stable throughout the year. They average around 79°F (26°C) in February and March, and 84°F (29°C) in September and October. Many divers wear only a rash-guard for protection. But if you get cold easily, consider bringing a wetsuit or renting one from a local dive center.
Waves and visibility
Bonaire experiences a steady, easterly trade wind for most of the year. As a result, the protected west coast rarely experiences large waves or rough seas while the less-developed east coast has very strong surf. The latter is
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Natural mangroves line many of the coastal roads in southern Bonaire
Reef Smart ©
exposed to the full force of the wind except during late August and September, when the trade winds change direction and blow from the west. The corals of Bonaire thrive in the protected lee of the island. Another factor that contributes to the high quality of the reef is the crystal-clear waters. Visibility often exceeds 80 feet (25 meters) and great viz paired with steady sunshine and white coral sand turn the waters between the shore and the fringing reef a gorgeous azure-blue color that people have come to expect from a tropical paradise.
Currents and tides
The tidal cycle in Bonaire is mild, measuring a mere foot to a foot and a half (less than a meter). It is enough to make a difference in some of the entry points over shallow reefs, but nothing that will unduly impact a day of diving. Currents along the west coast are typically light, although there can be a strong long-shore current along the island’s many reef walls. A few dive sites near the far south of the island and in the extreme north regularly experience strong currents, particularly where the east coast currents wrap around either end of the island and come into contact with the calmer waters of the west coast.
Ecosystems
Coral reefs
All of Bonaire’s reefs are fringing reefs, meaning
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A view of the pink salt ponds from above the Cargill Salt Works
Andy Troy/Shutterstock ©
they are situated close to shore – sometimes just 30 feet (10 meters) from the shoreline. Most reefs start relatively shallow and descend at a steep angle, and some of them form true walls that descend almost vertically down to depths of 130 feet (40 meters) or more.
The shallow back reef area between the reef line and the shore is often filled with soft corals and healthy stands of staghorn coral – a sign of the quality of Bonaire’s reefs. Elkhorn coral replaces the staghorn in areas with stronger currents and wave action. This type of habitat offers protection to small juvenile reef fishes. And the proximity of this nursery habitat to the reef wall helps promote the diversity and abundance of reef species throughout the whole ecosystem.
Mangroves
Bonaire has small areas of mangrove habitat near the southern end of the island, along the stretch of coastal road to the south and around the saliñas in the north. A much larger mangrove
system thrives on the east coast of the island in the shallow waters of Lac Bay. Mangroves help stabilize coastal shorelines and prevent erosion from damaging the nearby reef systems. Do not damage any mangrove trees as you access dive sites from the shore and pay attention to the delicate aerial roots that may be underfoot if you are crossing a saliña to reach a shore dive. Park only in designated areas to avoid damaging the surrounding mangrove ecosystem.
The east coast mangrove ecosystem is located in Lac Bay. It is one of the best-preserved mangrove ecosystems in the Caribbean. The nearby Bonaire Mangrove Center (Mangrovecenter.com) offers guided kayak and boat tours throughout the day on every day of the week except Sunday, when the center is closed. Snorkeling tours are also provided through the mangrove channel and out across the adjacent seagrass beds. The Lac Bay mangroves are part of a system of marine protected areas and terrestrial parks that cover nearly 60 percent of Bonaire.
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