A used diesel not maintained properly and over-trailered beyond its factory weight ratings can be an expensive time bomb. Diesel mechanics charge more than gas engine mechanics per hour. Engines, radiators, alternators, starters, batteries, etc., all cost more in diesel trucks. But a used diesel truck with a pedigree from a one-owner, pulling moderate trailer weights and with service receipts is worth a premium. Some truck owners use the high setting on power chips and micro turners, which works them hard to have most of the goody used up. That’s how most of my trucks were when I was done. I stripped them down to the frame and sold them by the pound. Trucks can last several decades, and so can the wrong choice.
Comparing Trucks
I believe in long test drives and several of them. Used salespeople will try to have you to turn right four times to get you back to the dealership fast; “right turn Clyde” if you remember Clint Eastwood’s Every Which Way But Loose. Always remember it’s your money and you are in control. If the salesperson doesn’t want to accept those terms, then I use a borrowed phrase from Amway: “Some will, some won’t, so what, next!”
Always remember to get your money first. You can always take zero percent interest from the manufacture financing when available, but be prepared with your own options. Before you get talked into the dealer extended warranties, do your own research. Sometimes your credit union or insurance companies have better warranties. Keep checking back on the latest rebates, recalls and interest rates, which can change each month. There are crash tests from the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration available at http://www.nhtsa.gov/. And also at https://www.fueleconomy.gov. is a nice VIN lookup section and information on EPA mileage for trucks that are 8500 GVWR and lower.
One way to look at buying a truck new or used is to consider your future needs. The month I got out of the business, my oldest son rolled his truck and we had to go truck shopping. I had forgotten how hard it was. We started out going dealer to dealer, reading the paper, looking on the Internet, and I just tagged along as dumb ol’ dad playing with my granddaughter. After my son and daughter-in-law got tired of it, and after changing their minds several times on which vehicle they wanted, they asked for help. I got on the cell phone and called one of the veteran salespeople I bought from and trusted as a broker. I told him what I needed and then we went and picked it up.
Of course I have the advantage, knowing the dealer cost of vehicles and who to trust. But the point I was trying to make to my kids was: you’re going to buy a lot of vehicles over your lifetime. Find the salesperson and dealer you trust, build a relationship and send them your friends. You still need to do price research to keep everyone honest. It’s natural for a salesperson on commission to want to make more money. I would think a positive relationship with a dealer you trust would take some of the stress out of something you will do often for the rest of your life.
We are all trying to feed our families, and I don’t expect people to work for free. But that’s just me: the older I get the more I can see both sides of any argument.
Should you buy your truck from a new dealer or a used dealer?
There are several great used car lots, ones that have been in families for generations. And there are several that are high pressure, and target you for one big sale. I’ve known used lots that send buyers all over the country to buy the last flood, hurricane, hail, or tornado-damaged vehicles at auctions, and ship them home to be repainted and rebuilt. Ever wonder how used lots have the latest model year vehicles? Manufacturers also sell the lemons they can’t fix at those auctions. Watch out for the newer models with low miles, thinking there is still factory warranty left. They don’t all have it.
I’ve known a lot of car salesman in my ten years of being in the business. They make more money working for the used lots. The problem with new lots, the big ones with the most inventory, is that they have the most “new green pea salespeople” who naturally don’t know much about trucks. What do you do? I suggest you do your own homework. Go to the manufacturer’s websites. New dealers have the manufacturer behind them on new, and also usually on the used inventory. With the factory-certified mechanics close by, it’s easier to have the vehicle checked out. If the vehicle you are looking at is the same brand they sell new, it can be traced on the factory computer for recalls and repair history. And you can find out if there really is factory warranty left!
Used lots of ill repute will watch you drive away hoping to not see you again. They will not be your friend when the truck breaks down. If the new dealer is well-established, they have considerably more invested in their franchise than the used lot with a two year lease on their property. The better auctions that sell the factory program cars from the manufactories, lease returns, and executive cars, usually sell these vehicles to the franchise dealers first at special monthly auctions. Guess who the auctions sell the lemons and worn-out trade-ins to? We know that there are both good and bad new and used vehicle dealers. But, since prices are usually comparable between the two, you need to decide which one gets your future sales and service business? If you find unbelievable deals somewhere, what does common sense say?
A TRUCK AND A TRAILER
GET HITCHED
The number one cause of trailer accidents is the wrong size ball. I know you guys reading this know how big your balls are. Pickup truck and trailer compatibility is in your control. What guidelines make the union between your truck and trailer long-lasting and safe for your family?
Rules for towing and trailers in general are less-regulated in the US. In Canada, you have to have your trailer inspected each year, and your brake-away system uses a full size battery. In Europe, trailers have to be tested on a track before they can be sold. In Australia, trailers over 10,000 pounds are required to have air brakes on the trailer and all goosenecks use three inch balls which were implemented in the US on 30,001 pound trailers and larger in the last five years.
The SAE makes up the requirements for trailers but has no enforcement authority. The DOT (Department of Transportation) has a few trailer requirements but mostly it governs semi-trailers. For example, since 1991 over-the-road semi-trailers have been required to have an ABS (anti lock braking system) and a side light to tell you if the trailer ABS is working. On your horse trailer, RV, or car trailer, you still aren’t required to have ABS brakes. DOT, EPA, and SAE have an extreme impact on your truck’s manufacturing requirements.
Gather all the information you can on your truck’s capacity. Most trailer towing, payload, tongue weight, and axle weight ratings will be on the truck manufacturer’s website, but you have to dig into the websites. First, you have to know your truck configuration. The more options on your truck, the lower the payload and trailer capacity. So a stripped down 4x2 single cab truck with a gas engine will have a higher payload than a 4x4 crew-cab long-bed diesel, even though we all know a typical diesel engine has more power and torque to tow trailers than a gas engine. Don’t forget braking, including the diesel exhaust brake. The extra weight of a loaded diesel truck can be better at controlling a trailer. So what do you do: buy a less powerful gas truck that fits the requirements including insurance and warranty, or buy a diesel that will make it to the top of the mountain with ease? Here are the rules, and you can decide.
If you’re buying a new truck, get the trailer tow package, including: integrated trailer brake controller, receiver hitch, larger radiator, and transmission cooler. If you bought a used truck, take the VIN number to that brand’s