North Coast Gardening. Gardening in the Pacific Northwest. This entertaining site offers a wealth of information about plants, garden maintenance, design concepts and gardening tools. It also includes a list of neonic-free growers, seed companies and nurseries (wholesale and retail). (northcoastgardening.com/2015/02/nurseries-neonicotinoid/)
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Now, let’s dive into the world of perennials to begin mastering the art of great deals plus smarter plant choices – for maximum color with less work.
PERENNIALS
Perennials by definition are plants that should survive three or more years in their designated hardiness and heat zones. Did you notice that should is italicized? That is your first lesson.
There are many factors that can impact a perennial’s life expectancy, including a gardener’s poor decision making. For example, placing a perennial in too little or too much sun; or planting it too deeply so that soil covers the lower stems; or using a post hole digger to open up a teeny-weeny space in compacted soil, jamming the plant in and expecting it to thrive. If you had trouble working the soil, how do you think those fine little root hairs are going to do?
Self-delusional dreams are also a source of a plant’s early demise: “Who cares what the plant tag says concerning sunlight requirements, I want that perennial THERE!” Some folks will go to great lengths for reaffirmation. They’ll google dozens of sites until they finally find one that tells them what they want to hear. And zone denial is a killer. Maybe, just maybe, that big ole banana tree will overwinter here in my Maine garden. Dream on! I know. I’ve done all of the above.
Eye-Spy…
■ Watch for “recycled” perennials overwintered from the prior year and returned to spring inventory. Although these plants do not look like the fresh material coming from delivery trucks or production greenhouses, it’s what’s in the soil that matters. Older plants with more developed root systems will ultimately provide double the plant mass compared to first-year plants in quart or gallon pots.
■ Do some quick math in your head (or on your iPhone) to see if it is cheaper in the long run to buy a larger container and then divide it into pieces, versus buying smaller pots priced for less. But a word of warning as you scout the field. There are some perennials that resent being divided (read as stress out and possibly die) or have physical root structures that cannot be divided. These include Oriental poppy, baby’s breath (Gypsophila paniculata), perennial flax (Linum), balloon flower (Platycodon), lupine, Malva, gas plant (Dictamnus), Crambe, butterfly weed (Asclepias) and false lupine (Thermopsis caroliniana).
■ Think spring. Spring is when some growers will plant multiple small perennial plugs in a one-gallon or larger pot so that it fills in quickly and encourages quick sales. I’m always on the lookout for these remarkable deals. Buy, disassemble and count your booty!
■ Don’t be duped. Investigate when you see a little plant sitting in the center of a large pot. It may be that the plant was recently transplanted from a smaller container. I’m fine with paying more as long as the perennial is rooted in well. But if it was just transplanted, why pay extra just because of the pot size? If I need more potting soil, I’ll buy it! Sometimes you can tell if a plant has been recently transplanted by giving it a GENTLE tug. If it shifts easily in the potting soil, or pops out, you have your answer. Please be kind and leave the plant as you found it (press it back into place). If I really want that particular perennial, I’ll go check to see if smaller pots are still available. If not, then why not purchase it later in the season when it’s a heftier specimen. I would rather have nursery staff take care of it until it reaches a good size. Then I will whisk it off the shelf, and maybe even divide it into several pieces.
■ Don’t be dirt cheap! If you want to be astonished by the health and growth rate of your perennials, then invest in healthy soil. There is an age-old worthy saying: Don’t plant a $5 plant in a $1 hole, instead plant a $1 plant in a $5 dollar hole. Pouring a little love into your soil can transform a springplanted, 4-inch potted perennial into a hefty gallon-sized specimen later that same season!
■ Nurture healthy soil. Healthy soil fosters plants that:
• have more expansive, well-developed roots
• are more drought-tolerant and less stressed by swings in soil temperature
• support lusher top growth (foliage, flowers, fruits)
• are more resistant to disease and insect damage
• are less prone to winterkill
Enrich soil by incorporating organic material into new garden beds or topdressing existing gardens with two or three inches of nutrient-rich matter. Amendments include aged compost, manure, leaf mold and mushroom compost. Check with your regional extension office for locally sourced materials. A complete soil test that includes a nutrient analysis, soil pH and percentage of organic matter is usually around $25, money well spent!
■ Go for Godzillas. Save money and planting time by purchasing “Godzilla-size” family members. A super-sized perennial can fill a space that would require multiple smaller-scaled siblings. Here are some ideas:
| Average-size | Godzilla-size |
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