The 20-30 Something Garden Guide. Dee Nash

pots can look nice tucked into small spaces, though. It helps if you line porous containers with some type of material that retains water. I sometimes use a layer of sphagnum moss in mine around the edges, but I have also used bubble wrap. I like moss better because it's natural.

      There are several different kinds of containers to choose from. Here’s what you need to know to pick the best ones for your garden:

       TERRA COTTA. Terra cotta is porous, so it heats up quickly and drains rapidly. In a hot climate, it can dry out too quickly. However, it is wonderful for large, top-heavy plants that need a sturdy pot.

       PLASTIC. Don’t belittle the humble plastic container. While it might not be the sportiest one on the block, it will get you through your first and probably second season just fine. Plastics with bisphenol A (BPA) have been in the news recently because of their potential link to cancer. There is debate about whether you should choose BPA-free plastic to grow vegetables. BPA is understandably controversial, and research is ongoing. For my own garden, I use organic practices throughout; last year I chose food-grade plastic buckets to grow my potatoes. There’s still scientific discussion about whether BPA leaches into growing vegetables. That’s not to say that it doesn’t, though. To be safe, I would choose food-grade plastic or a completely different type of container to grow fruit and vegetables, just in case.

       INSULATED CONTAINERS. These are an excellent medium for flowers. However, since they are not made of food-grade plastic, I wouldn’t use them to grow anything I’d want to eat. They also hold moisture – not ideal in rainy climates, but can be very beneficial in dry climates.

       GLAZED CERAMIC CONTAINERS. Glazed containers are a good choice because the glazing retains moisture. But, they are heavy and can crack like terra cotta if left outside over winter. Glazed containers can also be pricey, so it’s best to collect them a few at a time. I grow most of my plants in cobalt blue glazed pots I’ve gathered over the years.

       CONCRETE AND HYPERTUFA. These are additional container choices. Minerals that bleed out of concrete tend to make soil more alkaline. I’ve never had problems with this, but if you grow a crop like blueberries you will probably need to add sulphur to acidify the soil.

       METAL CONTAINERS. For sheer modern, architectural style, nothing beats the silvery goodness and contemporary charm of galvanized steel stock tanks, or other lead-free, metal containers. They make great small ponds, too.

       UPCYCLED ITEMS. I’ve seen plants grown in everything from bathtubs to plastic storage bins. Use your imagination to create a garden that’s practically free!

      Container selections are nearly endless. Whatever type you pick, it’s good to be aware of the pluses and minuses of each material before you choose.

       Drainage holes and saucers

      All containers need drainage holes. Containers do not need saucers; they trap water and debris and are no longer suggested. If you want to lift your pot off of a deck or patio, use pot feet or a pot trivet. I also use small, flat rocks to level my containers and improve drainage.

       What size container?

      Container size is important, too. It must be large enough to accommodate the plant’s roots. Tomatoes and peppers especially need large containers. Although they aren’t fancy, five-gallon buckets are excellent choices for large plants. Be sure to drill those drainage holes first, though.

      TIP: Most plants also need good air circulation, so try not to overcrowd them. Keep in mind how large they will eventually grow, and leave a little space around the containers themselves, too. Gentle breezes keep foliage dry and disease free. However, try to keep containers out of strong winds that dry out soil and shred leaves.

       Potting soil (it’s not dirt)

      Who says you need dirt to garden? Good quality potting mixes can be found at your local nursery. Don’t be surprised to see the words “soilless mix” on a package. Most potting soils are mixtures of several ingredients. Many start with peat moss, which can be controversial due to the environmental damage of peat bogs. For more regarding peat bogs and their environmental impact on wetlands, see Resources. Don’t be afraid to ask your local nursery what goes into their soil mix. It should be organic. You’re growing these vegetables partly because you don’t completely trust commercial farming, right? Don’t grow with chemical fertilizers or pesticides either, and the ecosystem will thank you.

      Garden soil. This is a no-go for pots because it is too heavy, slow draining and has weed seeds and bacteria. Container mixes are formulated to be light in texture, free of disease and weed seeds, and to provide good drainage.

       Water: the stuff of life

      So, you’ve picked your pots, plants and soil, and you’re ready to go. However, without water, your garden will quickly become a barren wasteland. All life needs water to survive. Plants should be placed where they are easy for you to water. Many apartments don’t have an outside water spigot on the balcony. If that’s the case, either hook up a hose to your kitchen faucet – with a faucet adapter – or carry water to your plants. Your choice comes down to convenience. If you plan to tote water to your plants, buy a good quality watering can. Plastic watering cans are lightweight and easy to carry, even when full of water. I particularly love Haws watering cans – a good Christmas present – because they are perfectly balanced, with a great watering rose (sprinkler).

      Containers should be checked for moisture at least once a day when summer heats up. Even when it rains, containers beneath an overhang won’t get water. To test whether a container needs water, insert your index finger down into the soil. Potting soil should feel damp, not sopping wet or dry. Because containers are watered everyday, they will also need consistent nutrients. Buy a slow release or watersoluble organic fertilizer for monthly feeding. Group containers together for easier watering on hot summer days. You will probably water your plants before you head off to work, and no one wants to haul a hose around the deck while wearing office attire.

      Drip watering. For even sweeter relief, install a drip watering system with a timer. This is perfect for when you leave town because containers can become diseased or die if they go more than a day or two without water. You can buy kits and additional drip emitters at varying water rates, all very easy to install. I placed a simple timer on mine to make sure the pots got watered to my specifications while I was gone. (See the next chapter for how to install a drip system for your pots.) If possible, group your containers together in the shade to reduce water loss. Have a veggie-loving friend come over to pick vegetables and check on things while you’re away. Some vegetables will quit producing if you leave them alone for too long.

      Good to know: Crops like lettuce and other leafy vegetables require more water than bulbs like onions and garlic.

       Project

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