You may have read that you can’t rely on your foundation or tinted moisturizer with sunscreen rated SPF 30 or greater as your sole source of sun protection. We disagree with that strongly! There’s no research showing that a foundation or tinted moisturizer (or BB or CC cream either) with sunscreen is a problem as long as you stick to the same rules for all sunscreen application. In this case, the primary consideration should be how much coverage you want from these products. If you don’t apply foundation, tinted moisturizer, or BB or CC cream with SPF 30 or greater liberally, you won’t get the amount of sun protection stated on the label. So, if you’re someone who likes a very sheer light application, then you shouldn’t rely on these alone for sun protection. But, if you like a more generous application then you’ll be covered quite well. Don’t forget, you’ll still need a sunscreen for your neck, as applying makeup there can result in higher dry-cleaning bills!
While foundations, tinted moisturizers, and BB and CC creams can be applied generously to achieve great sun protection, we feel that is unlikely in the case of loose or pressed powders that contain sunscreen. The kind of liberal application you would need to get the best protection would create a caked-on look that most people would find unacceptable (and we think would look fairly strange). Loose and pressed powders with sunscreen are best for the layering approach of wearing sunscreen, as we mentioned above.
Can you mix a tinted moisturizer or foundation that doesn’t contain sunscreen with the mineral sunscreen you use to counteract the white cast it can cause? We don’t recommend it. Diluting a sunscreen is never a good idea for this critical step of skincare. Just apply your mineral-based sunscreen first, let it absorb, and then you apply your foundation in a light layer to eliminate the white cast. Or, you can add just a drop or two (literally) of a liquid bronzer or specialty makeup product like Cover FX Custom Cover Drops to your mineral sunscreen to offset the white cast. In this case, the tiny amount of product added is unlikely to have a negative effect on the mineral sunscreen’s ability to protect your skin.
What does the PA++ designation mean? As if the whole SPF situation weren’t confusing enough, along comes the PA rating system! The letters PA followed by plus signs (PA++, PA+++) on a sunscreen product label are a rating system developed in Japan. Although interesting, this system has its drawbacks. The PA system concerns only UVA protection; PA++ indicates moderate UVA protection and PA+++ indicates high UVA protection. Some regulatory experts argue that this type of rating isn’t reliable because it looks only at UVA radiation, and UV rays from natural sunlight are a mix of UVA and UVB, each of which damages skin in different ways. [51]
The testing for the PA ratings differs from the UV critical wavelength testing, which is what’s used to determine the UVA protection of sunscreens made in the United States and in European Union (EU) nations. The U.S. and EU method is considered more reliable because the subjects are exposed to the UV light (both UVA and UVB) they will encounter in real-world settings; that is, the sunscreen’s UV protection ability is measured against this type of real-world exposure. [51]
The other issue is that the PA ratings of a product are established based on what’s known as “persistent pigment darkening” (PPD). As mentioned previously, UVA rays are the ones that cause tanning; so, if exposed to UVA, your skin will become browner or darker, but that’s not true for everyone. In the actual testing to determine the PA rating, even on people who have the same skin tone before UVA exposure, the color their skin turns after UVA exposure is routinely inconsistent; some skin gets darker, some not as dark. These variations make this type of testing inconsistent and unreliable in the long run. [51]
Whether the sunscreen you’re considering uses the PA rating system or not (and it’s definitely not essential nor a mark of a superior product), a well-formulated sunscreen will provide broad-spectrum protection and, as with any sunscreen, must be applied liberally and reapplied as needed to maintain protection.
Does sunscreen cause cancer? No, and there’s no research proving otherwise. We’re shocked how some people overlook the huge amount of research showing that regular use of sunscreen actually prevents cancer, prevents premature aging of skin, reduces brown spots, improves wrinkles, and helps skin heal. We discuss this issue in detail in Chapter 14, Common Beauty Questions Answered and Myths Debunked!
Bottom line: While understanding sunscreen isn’t necessarily easy, if you remember to liberally apply a broad-spectrum SPF 30 sunscreen daily as the last step of your skincare routine that is a great start. After that, the next step is to be sure you use a water-resistant sunscreen if you’ll be swimming or sweating and to reapply it every 40 to 80 minutes (which is determined by whether it is water-resistant or very water-resistant) when sweating or swimming. You also need to reapply regular sunscreen after every few consecutive hours of direct daylight exposure and anytime you towel off.
When we say the best skin of your life starts here, this is how it begins—with daily, diligent sun protection, your skin will look and act younger. You’ll also reduce the risk and presence of brown spots, degree of sagging skin, formation of deep wrinkles, and impairment of skin’s healing. Most important, it will reduce your risk of skin cancer!
RECOMMENDED SUNSCREENS:
Following is a list of sunscreens with different textures that we’re particularly fond of. All provide broad-spectrum protection and also include other beneficial ingredients like antioxidants. In addition, the brands mentioned tend to produce consistently good SPF products, whether they are facial moisturizers with sun protection or “regular” sunscreens for the body.
Alba Botanica Very Emollient Mineral Sunscreen Protection, Fragrance Free SPF 30 ($11.49)
Clinique Sun Broad Spectrum SPF 30 or SPF 50 Body Cream ($23)
KINeSYS SPF 30 Alcohol-Free Sunscreen with Mango ($18.99)
MD SolarSciences Mineral Crème Broad Spectrum SPF 50 UVA-UVB Sunscreen ($30)
Olay Regenerist Regenerating Lotion with Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 50 ($25)
Replenix Sheer Physical Sunscreen Cream SPF 50 ($29)
Paula’s Choice Resist Super-Light Daily Wrinkle Defense SPF 30 ($32)
Paula’s Choice Resist Youth Extending Daily Fluid SPF 50 ($32)
Paula’s Choice Sunscreen Spray Broad Spectrum SPF 43 ($25)
Yes to Cucumbers Natural Sunscreen SPF 30 Stick ($8.99)
Chapter 7
Stop Acne and Breakouts (No Matter Your Age)
Understanding Acne
Acne is one of the most troublesome and common skincare problems for people around the world and, emotionally, one of the most embarrassing skin disorders. Although most often associated with teenagers and the onset of puberty, the truth is that you can suffer from acne at any age. Even if you never had it when you were younger, acne can still occur.
Most of us are familiar with acne to some degree, even if we don’t know the specifics of what makes it acne and not some other skin problem. Acne’s textbook definition describes it as a skin disorder occurring when hair follicles (every pore on your face is actually part of a follicle) become plugged with dead skin cells and oil that causes skin to become inflamed, erupting as a white fluid-filled sac. [27]
That mixture of oil and dead cells allows the bacteria responsible for acne, Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes), to flourish inside the follicle instead of remaining on the skin’s surface, where it normally resides without causing too much trouble. [27]
These bacteria feast on the follicle’s contents (gross, huh?), which starts a domino effect that leads to the production of inflammatory chemicals and enzymes. This process then triggers the immune system to send white blood cells to combat the bacteria—a call for help that leads to further inflammation.
Acne is, first and