While proponents of the Australian Kelpie do not stress strict adherence to the standard (as long as the dog’s working ability is exemplified), dogs that are shown in conformation should measure up to the written ideal.
The breed standard for the Kelpie presents an interesting situation, as working Kelpies and show-type Kelpies have diverged much in type. The show-type Kelpies are seen in conformation shows whereas the working Kelpies are not; rather, the working-type dogs are judged according to their performance in trials that evaluate their ability with livestock. Adherence to physical ideals is a secondary concern among breeders of the working-type Kelpie, with working ability and preservation of the breed’s natural skills the foremost concern. Many working-type breeders feel that breeding with an eye to physical conformation is only to the detriment of the breed, believing that things like ears that don’t stand erect or an unrecognized coat color have no bearing on a dog’s capability as a stockdog. When physical traits are the main focus, desirable skills and temperament traits can be lost.
Coat color does not affect a dog’s working ability, and the Kelpie standard allows for a range of striking colors and combinations.
A standard for working-type Kelpies does exist in order to preserve general type in the breed and promote the physical characteristics necessary for the dog to do his intended work. However, it is stressed that the written description is a guideline only and that working ability must never be sacrificed in favor of beauty points. The following description is excerpted from that of the breed’s homeland and used by the Working Kelpie Council of Australia. The full description, complete with further commentary on how these characteristics contribute to the dog’s function and an explanation of undesirable traits, can be found at www.wkc.org.au. Readers interested in examining the differences in the two types of Kelpie should research the Fédération Cynologique Internationale’s standard at www.fci.be, which is used by the Australian National Kennel Council (the country’s main show-dog organization).
DESCRIPTION OF THE WORKING KELPIE
Characteristics: Extremely alert, eager and highly intelligent, with an open, friendly, active but placid disposition. Good balance between keenness to work and ability to relax. Almost inexhaustible energy; a marked loyalty and devotion to “work” and a strongly inherited natural instinct and aptitude in the working of sheep (and other livestock), both in open country and in the yards.
General Appearance: A medium sized, lithe, active, strongly muscled dog, possessing great suppleness of limb and conveying the capability of untiring work.
Black and tan dog of pleasing balance, substance and structure in profile.
Movement: Gait should be free, smooth and effortless, with a good length of stride, showing a tendency for foot placement to move towards “single tracking” just before breaking into a trot and becoming more pronounced as speed increases. Ability to turn suddenly at speed, capable of the crouching stealthy movement demanded by its work. When walking slowly (and when standing still), the legs seen from front or rear should be four square.
Prick ears and a wedge shape contribute to the typical look of the Kelpie’s head.
Head: Slightly rounded skull, broad between well-pricked ears, forehead curved very slightly towards a pronounced stop. Cheeks neither coarse nor prominent but rounded to the foreface, cleanly chiseled and defined. Muzzle of moderate length, tapered toward the nose and refined in comparison to the skull. Lips tight and clean.
Teeth: Sound, strong and evenly spaced, the lower incisors just behind but touching the upper.
Eyes: Overall placement in the skull should provide the widest possible field of vision without the need of head movement. Slightly oval shaped, of medium size and widely spaced, clearly defined at the corners and showing a kind, intelligent and eager expression.
Ears: Widely spaced, pricked and running to a fine point at the tip, the leather fine but strong at the base, inclining outwards and slightly curved on the outer edge. Of moderate size. The inside of the ears well furnished with hair to discourage entry of foreign bodies.
Neck: Of fair length, strong, slightly arched and showing quality, gradually molding into the shoulders.
Forequarters: Clean, muscular, with sloping shoulders close-set at the withers; elbows set parallel with the body.
Shoulders: Clean, muscular, with a long sloping shoulder blade (scapula) set at approximately a 45° angle to the ground. Close-set withers, upper arm (humerus) forming a near 90° angle with the blade (scapula) and appropriately angulated to the forearm (radius and ulna) with elbows set parallel to the body. Particular emphasis should be placed on the sloping shoulder.
Forelegs: Clean, muscular, refined bone. Perfectly straight when viewed from the front. The length of leg should be approximately the same from the point of elbow (tip of the ulna) to the ground as is the distance from the withers to the base of the rib cage. Preference towards longer, rather than shorter, forelegs. The pastern should show a slight angle with the forearm when viewed from side.
Front Feet: Round, strong, deep in pad, with flexible well-arched toes. Strong short nails to allow the dog to adapt to differing ground surfaces.
Body: The chest should be deep, rather than wide; ribs well sprung (not barrel-ribbed) with a topline showing a rise at the withers (to allow sufficient action of the forequarters). Strong and well-muscled loins, sloping to the butt of the tail.
Length to Height Ratio: 10:9. The body, measured from the point of the breast bone in a straight line to the buttocks, should be greater than the height at the withers, as 10 units is to 9 units (e.g., a dog 18 inches in height should measure 20 inches in length).
Chest: When viewed from the side, should be deep, the point of breast bone showing ahead of the junction between shoulder blade (scapula) and upper arm (humerus). The bottom line of the rib cage should curve downwards from its point to below and slightly in front of the elbow (tip of the ulna), then remain level to the eighth rib before continuing in a gradual upwards curve towards the flank.
Hindquarters: Should show breadth and strength with the rump rather long and sloping. The upper thigh (femur) is well set into the hip socket at the pelvis at a corresponding angle to the shoulder blade. When viewed from the side, the overall upper line of the rump and tail should form a smooth curve when the dog is standing at rest. The stifles (junction of femur with tibia and fibula) are well turned (angled). The hocks are fairly well let down and placed parallel with the body when viewed from behind.
Hind Feet: Slightly elongated in comparison with the front feet. Strong, deep in the pads, with flexible well-arched toes. Strong, short nails to allow the dog maximum thrust under differing ground surfaces.
Tail: When viewed from the side the butt of the tail should be well let down. During inactivity, the tail should hang in a slight curve reaching the hock. Longer rather than shorter tail is desirable.
Size: Classified as a medium-sized dog. Height to length ratio of 9:10.
Coat: Moderately short, flat, straight and weather-resisting outer coat, with or without a short dense undercoat.