Chris, an former psychology student, likes to think of cooking as therapy; the sequence of shopping, assembling, prepping, and following the final sequence of steps is a contemplative, creative and deeply satisfying activity. Taking a recipe and experimenting with it until it has gotten under your skin requires no less art and gives no less joy than learning to play a Chopin etude. We urge you to agak-agak, to judge, and adjust quantities of ingredients on the fly, to imbue the dishes with your own personal touch.
This collection of recipes is a personal and idiosyncratic one. It is not meant to be a definitive guide to Singaporean gastronomy—as if such a thing could be contained in a single volume!—nor is it an anonymous collation of ersatz ethnic expressions packaged for painless digestion. These dishes are drawn from our lives, from the home repertoires we have cooked our way through many times over the years. They are what we enjoy eating. We hope you find them shiok too!
Intense heat produces intense flavor.
Sambals, Achars, Chutneys and Sauces
Among all the things Singaporeans are notorious tor, one is absolutely true. You can always spot a group of Singaporean tourists on holiday in the Northern hemisphere, not by the “lahs” that pepper the conversation, not by the ruthless efficiency with which they bargain for souvenirs—but by their jars of home-made sambal, smuggled past Customs in a plastic bag tied with a rubber band, which they pass around surreptitiously when confronted with a bland buffet of foreign food.
This chapter, which could potentially be infinitely long, is devoted to the accompaniments and condiments that make the Singaporean meal the endlessly stimulating mix that it is.
Hoi Sin, Wine, and Sesame Oil Marinade
1 tablespoon hoi sin sauce
4 tablespoons Shaoxing rice wine
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1 tablespoon finely crushed garlic
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 tablespoon dark soy sauce
1 Blend all ingredients well. Use as a marinade for whole joints of pork, pork fillet, or chicken, before roasting.
Makes 115 ml (scant ½ cup) marinade
Preparation time: 5 minutes
Hoi Sin, Oyster and Worcestershire Sauce Marinade
2 tablespoons hoi sin sauce
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoons water
1 Blend all ingredients well. Use as a marinade for barbecued spare ribs or fried chicken.
Makes 100 ml (scant ½ cup) marinade
Preparation time: 5 minutes
Wine, Oyster Sauce, and Sesame Oil Marinade
4 tablespoons Shaoxing rice wine
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
2 tablespoons sesame oil
1 tablespoon finely grated ginger
3 tablespoons water
1 Blend all ingredients. Use as a marinade for steamed chicken, as a base for braising pork or even as a sauce for stir-fried pork, beef, or liver.
Makes 180 ml (scant ¾ cup) marinade
Preparation time: 5 minutes
Tamarind and Soy Sauce Marinade
A similar blend of flavors to the Filipino adobo.
2 tablespoons tamarind pulp
6 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons dark soy sauce
1 tablespoon sugar
2 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon salt
1 Knead tamarind with water until pulp is dissolved. Strain and mix with all other ingredients, stirring to dissolve sugar. Cool before using to marinate chicken pieces, sliced pork, or beef before braising or sautéing.
Makes 160 ml (⅔ cup) marinade
Preparation time: 5 minutes
Basic Garam Masala
Garam masala is a warm spice mix that should be fragrant and compelling—which is why the coriander and cumin are roasted whole before grinding, for the most heightened aroma.
3 tablespoons coriander seeds
2 tablespoons cumin seeds
2 teaspoons black peppercorns
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground clove
1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 Set a wok (preferably non-stick, or very well seasoned) over low heat. When wok is hot, dry-fry coriander seeds for 4 to 6 minutes, stirring continuously, until they are fragrant and have darkened very slightly. Scrape into a bowl.
2 Dry-fry cumin seeds for 2 to 3 minutes until fragrant. When both spices have cooled, grind in spice grinder with black pepper until fine. Add all remaining spices and whizz just to mix. Store in an air-tight jar in a dark, dry place.
Makes scant ½ cup
Preparation time: 5 minutes
Meat Curry Powder
The Meat and Seafood Curry Powders are a time-saver if you have access to good quality ground spices (that is, those with use-by dates a long way off). That said, if you have the time—and a good spice grinder—it is worth purchasing each spice whole and dry-roasting them individually until they smell fragrant. When they have cooled, grind them together, then store airtight. Blend wet aromatics like ginger, garlic, and onions with curry powder to a smooth paste, to be fried in oil before adding your meat and liquid.
250 g (9 oz) ground coriander
100 g (3½ oz) ground cumin
50 g (1¾ oz) ground fennel
30 g (1 oz) ground black pepper
30 g (1 oz) chili powder
30 g (1 oz) ground turmeric
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
1 teaspoon ground cloves
1 Mix all ingredients together. Set a wok (preferably nonstick, or very well seasoned) over low heat. When wok is hot, add mixture and dry-fry, stirring continuously and thoroughly, for about 10 to 15 minutes, until spices start to release their aromatic oils. Do not let them scorch. When done, scrape into a bowl, and when cool, store in airtight jars in a dark, dry place.