Published by PERIPLUS EDITIONS (HK) LTD., with editorial offices at 61 Tai Seng Avenue, #02-12 Singapore 534167 and 364 Innovation Drive, North Clarendon, VT 05759 U.S.A.
Copyright © 1999
Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or utilised in any form or by any means without prior written permission from the publisher.
ISBN: 962-593-400-6
ISBN: 978-1-4629-1644-3 (ebook)
Publisher: Eric Oey Editors: Melanie Raymond and Jane Doughty Production: Violet Wong
Photo Credits: The photo on page 17 is by T. Harmon Parkhurst (neg. #68822) and is reproduced courtesy of the Photo Archives at the Palace of Governors, Santa Fe. The painting on the endpapers is by Amanda Grogan.
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THE FOOD OF
SANTA FE
Authentic Recipes from the American Southwest
Essays and recipes by Dave DeWitt and Nancy Gerlach
Photography by Eduardo Fuss
Styling by Christina Ong
Additional recipes from:
Kit Baum, El Farol
Jeff Copeland, Santacafé
Paul Hunsicker, Paul’s Restaurant of Santa Fe
Katharine Kagel, Cafe Pasqual’s
Mark Kiffin and Andrew MacLauchlan, Coyote Cafe
Al Lucero, Maria’s New Mexican Kitchen
Rosalea Murphy, The Pink Adobe
Flynt Payne, Inn of the Anasazi
Kelly Rogers, La Casa Sena
Santa Fe School of Cooking
Maurice Zeck, La Fonda
Page 2: Its spectacular buildings, which echo the colour and form of the surrounding hills, make Taos Pueblo one of the most famous pueblos in New Mexico.
Contents
PART ONE: FOOD IN SANTA FE
Introduction
Native Americans and Their Food
The Spanish Contribution
Hot, Hotter, Hottest
The Arrival of the Anglos
Celebrations and Festivals
Dining Out in Santa Fe
PART TWO: COOKING IN SANTA FE
The Santa Fe Kitchen
Making Corn Tortillas
Making Flour Tortillas
Preparing Chillies
Santa Fe Ingredients
A Guide to Chillies
PART THREE: THE RECIPES
Basic Recipes
Appetisers
Soups and Stews
Main Dishes
Vegetables and Rice
Breads
Desserts
Drinks
APPENDIX
Additional Recipes
Sources
Shopping Guide
Shops and Artists
A hand-crafted santo, or saint, sits watch over a festive Christmas meal of posole (left) and chicos (recipes on pages 130-31).
Part One: Food in Santa Fe
“The City Different” melds local
traditions with a hip, modern style
In just a few short decades, Santa Fe has become the magical city of the Southwest, a destination for artists, writers, chefs and, of course, tourists. Nicknamed “The City Different”, Santa Fe’s reputation for tolerating individuality has had much to do with its attraction as a place to live. Its tremendous appeal as a trendy place to visit is the result of countless articles and books about the landscape, the art scene, the cuisine, the architecture and the Santa Fe look in clothing and jewellery-all part of what is termed Santa Fe style. And though its overexposure has fostered a certain Santa Fe blasé, there is just no denying the incredible charm of the place.
The city is on a high desert mesa at 2,100 metres above sea level, offering spectacular views of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains that tower above it. The sun always seems to shine in Santa Fe and the quality of the light and the beauty of the mesas have drawn artists to the city for decades. The city’s adobe architecture, unchanged for centuries, reveals Santa Fe’s deep Native American roots. The buildings in the historic district-even new ones-all share the same ochre colour and smooth mud finish.
Santa Fe residents view the huge influx of tourists each year as just a continuation of history. After all, during the past 400 years Santa Fe has been controlled by Native Americans, Spaniards, Mexicans, Americans and Confederates. Each of these groups helped create the flavours of Santa Fe.
The first food fusion of Santa Fe occurred when Spanish settlers from Mexico founded the city in 1598, bringing European and Mexican ingredients that were combined with the corn cuisine of the native Pueblo Indians. New Mexican cuisine can thus be viewed as the northernmost of the Mexican regional cuisines; it is also the spiciest because of the New Mexicans’ love of chillies. The second food fusion occurred when Anglo-Americans arrived with new ingredients, recipes and restaurants offering the standard meat and potatoes