Today, Chinatown is still known as a major center of commerce for food items and Chinese goods. Tuk-tuk still ply the roads that wind through the area, Chinese opera can still be heard some evenings and local residents continue to line up for their favorite street food snacks after work or school. For lovers of Thai street food, a visit to this part of town is a must.
Guaythiew Lod
กวยเตี๋ยวหลอด, ถนนเยาวราช หนารานนาฬิกาไซโกที่อยูขางรานหูฉลามสกาลา
STREETSIDE CART, YAOWARAJ ROAD, CHINATOWN
Despite its humble appearance, this stall serves among the best stuffed flat noodles in the city: rice noodles smothered under a blanket of bean sprouts, pork, calamari and shiitake mushrooms, soaked in a delicious soy-based sauce.
GETTING THERE
In front of the Seiko watch shop and next to Hu Chalaam Scala
Tel 02-225-3558, 081-559-8339
Open 18.30–1.00 except Monday
SPECIALTY
Flat noodles stuffed with pork (guaythiew lod), 35 baht
กวยเตี๋ยวหลอดกับหมู
OPTIONS
With egg (sai kai), without egg (mai kai), extra pork (moo piset)
NOTABLE EXTRAS
Fish maw soup (krapho pla), 50–100 baht (depending on size)
STANDARD TOPPINGS
Bean sprouts, scallions, deep-fried garlic
BEVERAGES
Fresh water (nam plao), iced chrysanthemum tea (geck huay yen), 10 baht
SEATING Yes
ON THE TABLE
Chopsticks, forks and spoons, condiment tray, vinegar with peppers, Chinese black vinegar (zisho)
RESTROOM No
Nai Jui
นายจุย ขาวหมูแดงหมูกรอบ, ถนนเยาวราช ขางรานเซี้ยหูฉลาม
STREETSIDE CART, YAOWARAJ ROAD, CHINATOWN
Delicious (and naturally crispy) pork atop soft, fluffy rice and slathered in a thick, sweet sauce—what could be better? This stand offers a great example of this dish, plus its kissing cousins—barbecued pork and braised pork leg—all great celebrations of the pig on a plate.
GETTING THERE
On the Old Market side of Yaowaraj Road, a few feet from Xie Shark Fin
Tel 081-009-9746, 086-127-2666
Open 8.30–1.00 except Monday
SPECIALTY
Rice topped with crispy pork (khao moo grob), 35–50 baht (depending on how many boiled egg halves and how much pork)
ขาวหมูกรอบ
OPTIONS
With egg (sai kai), without egg (mai kai), extra pork (moo piset)
NOTABLE EXTRAS
Rice topped with red barbecued pork (khao moo daeng), 35–50 baht; rice with fatty pork leg (khao ka moo), 35–50 baht
STANDARD TOPPINGS
Side of sliced cucumber
BEVERAGES
Chinese-style black iced coffee (olieng), black iced tea (cha dum yen), iced chrysanthemum tea (geck huay yen), cocoa, longan juice (nam lamyai), roselle juice (nam krajiep), 10 baht
SEATING Yes
ON THE TABLE
Spring onions, sweet soy sauce, sliced chilies in vinegar, pounded chilies in vinegar, sugar, chili powder
RESTROOM No
Xie Shark Fin
เซี้ยหูฉลาม, ถนนเยาวราช ขางรานทองใบเยาวราช
STREETSIDE CART, YAOWARAJ ROAD, CHINATOWN
Yet another option in the wildly diverse world of noodles: Hong Kong-style egg noodles that resemble spaghetti, only thinner. This vendor serves up some consistently delicious examples of these noodles.
GETTING THERE
On the Old Market side of Yaowaraj Road, next to Tong Bai Yaowaraj
Tel 081-889-6976
Open 19.00–1.00 except Monday
SPECIALTY
“Hong Kong” fried egg noodles with crab, shrimp and chicken (bamee hong kong), 65 baht
บะหมี่ฮองกง
OPTIONS
Without crab (mai pu), shrimp (mai goong) and/or chicken (mai gai)
NOTABLE EXTRAS
Fish maw soup (krapho pla), 60 baht; shark’s fin soup (hu chalam), 300–500 baht (depending on size of fin)
STANDARD TOPPINGS
(for Hong Kong noodles) Shredded cabbage, spring onions, bean sprouts
BEVERAGES
Cold tea water (nam cha yen), 2 baht; iced chrysanthemum tea (geck huay yen), longan juice (nam lamyai), 10 baht
SEATING Yes
ON THE TABLE
Condiment tray with black Chinese vinegar (zisho), white pepper, chili powder, toothpicks
RESTROOM No
Jae Ouan Rad Na Yod Pak
เจอวนราดหนายอดผัก, ถนนเยาวราช หนารานนาฬิการาโด
STREETSIDE CART, YAOWARAJ ROAD, CHINATOWN
Bring your own tissues and an empty bladder to this unpretentious spot on the main thoroughfare in Bangkok’s Chinatown. This vendor serves up some of the best gravy noodles in the city.
GETTING THERE
On Yaowaraj Road, in front of a Rado Citizen watch shop, on the Plang Nam Road side of the street
Tel 081-552-9882, 081-633-5102
Open 17.30–2.00 daily
SPECIALTY
Fried noodles in gravy with pork and Chinese kale, 30–50 baht (depending on options); fried noodles with soy sauce 50–60 baht (depending on options)
ราดหนาหมูยอดผักคะนา
OPTIONS
• For noodles in gravy (guaythiew rard na): with egg (sai kai), rice