Small roots were pruned in the process of exposing the base of the trunk and shaping the root ball of this strawberry tree.
The original soil level can still be seen on the trunk of this strawberry tree.
Most of the varieties discussed in this book are shrubs and small trees that are easy to keep in shape just by pruning the tops, although you sometimes have to let the tops get a little wild and wooly in flowering and fruiting season. Most of these tropical plants do not go dormant (edible figs are an exception) and cannot survive such harsh treatment as washing all the dirt from the roots. Like most typical houseplants, repotting involves gently disturbing the roots to stimulate growth into the new soil in a slightly larger pot. Sometimes roots at the base of the trunk are pruned and exposed to simulate aging and give the bonsai character. Because larger and deeper pots are used than with traditional bonsai, harsh root pruning is seldom required. Lightly pruning the foliage at the same time as repotting allows the plant to stay in balance with the disturbed roots, preventing it from going into shock before the new hair roots begin to grow and nourish your bonsai specimen.
Light requirements are another consideration in some situations. Most flowering and fruiting tropical varieties in this book require bright light to do their best; they may not produce if they don’t receive enough light. Edible figs actually do much better outside during the summer. When they go dormant and lose all their leaves for a couple months in the winter, figs do just fine in a lower-light situation, or even a basement or garage kept above freezing, until they start to sprout new leaves again in the spring and once again need brighter light. Citrus plants are also happier outside in the summer, but in climates with cloudy and colder winter conditions, these light-loving bonsai specimens may need supplemental lighting. Inexpensive full-spectrum plant light bulbs that screw into normal sockets or even track lighting can be found in any large hardware or lighting store. Even a single 150-watt bulb can make a huge difference when providing supplemental light for a large specimen during low-light seasons.
Most people believe bonsai need constant daily misting in addition to other the time-consuming work required to keep bonsai. This myth was spread by workers at garden centers, who hoped that constant misting would keep little juniper bonsai alive longer indoors, or at least keep foliage soft enough that it would take a while for the bonsai enthusiast to realize the tree was really quite dead. I observed this behavior during thirty-five years of plant industry work while managing four large garden centers and operating my own wholesale bonsai business for twenty years. In fact, daily misting will benefit a bonsai for a week or so after repotting, since the disturbance to the roots hampers the plant’s ability to draw water from the soil. This is especially true in dry climates and when repotting is done during warm weather. Outside this period, however, the varieties described in this book have no need for daily or even regular misting (although any specimen that will live for years will benefit and look better after being rinsed in the shower or outside with a hose a couple of times a year).
Another myth about bonsai is the belief that maintaining a bonsai specimen requires hours of detailed work and pruning on a regular basis. This is a complete misconception. Traditional outdoor bonsai grow so slowly that some varieties are only pruned once a year, and in cold climates are put into cold storage with minimal care for the entire winter. Fast-growing tropical bonsai need to be pruned several times a year; this can be seasonal depending on fruiting patterns. An edible fig can grow a three-foot shoot in a couple months during the spring, during which period it may be pruned a couple of times and then left alone until it goes dormant the next winter. Even fast-growing herbs don’t need to be pruned more than once every month or two, although if a perfectly groomed specimen is desired, herbs need much more detailed work than slower-growing tropical bonsai or the traditional deciduous or evergreen outdoor bonsai. Because herbs grow so quickly compared to most tropical plants, and their leaves age and yellow in a much shorter time, they need to be pruned more often. A neglected herbal bonsai can show a lot of yellow leaves that are just a natural part of aging. Simply combing the foliage with your fingers will remove most of these leaves; the last few can be removed individually when grooming the herbal specimen for display.
Growing indoor bonsai that produce an edible crop doesn’t have to be difficult. Water a couple times a week, fertilize once a month, prune a couple times a year, repot every couple of years, add supplemental lighting if needed, and harvest your bonsai crop when ready. The varieties discussed in this book will grow in typical potting soils—no need for special bonsai mixes designed for evergreens and deciduous trees. Miniaturizing giant outdoor trees over decades and centuries requires very limited use of fertilizers, but indoor tropical varieties grow year round and need regular feeding. As a rule, most commonly available fertilizers used at recommended strength will work just fine with these bonsai, although some varieties will prefer more acidic fertilizers.
Growing indoor fruiting bonsai is much easier than it sounds and can be very rewarding. Many people have sprouted citrus seeds and grown spindly trees that seldom produce fruit; by using the proper varieties and giving them the correct conditions, a surprising quantity of citrus fruit can be produced even in northern climates. Despite bonsai’s reputation for being difficult to grow and keep alive, anyone who is even moderately successful at growing common houseplants should be able to grow spectacular indoor tropical bonsai that can produce a usable crop. Many plant owners cultivate the same few varieties of common houseplant that have no use beyond their ability to cleanse the air and provide a pleasant atmosphere in the home. Th e primary difference between these common houseplants and edible varieties trained as bonsai is that flowering and fruiting varieties as a rule need bright light, and thus may require supplemental lighting. The number of potentially useful and edible varieties of tropical plants that can be trained as bonsai is large, making possible a distinctive display of green plants unlike those in most homes. Furthermore, serving a guest produce from a beautiful house-plant can add a unique dimension to your hospitality, and makes for a very rewarding experience.
CHAPTER 2
Creating Instant
Bonsai
The easiest way to start your edible bonsai collection is to visit a garden center and purchase an already-created bonsai from one of the varieties commonly used in the bonsai trade. Australian cherries, dwarf pomegranates and Natal plums should be easy to find this way. They will be small, like traditional bonsai, and won’t bear heavily until they get some age and size. The garden center may also have “bonsai starters,” which are less expensive partially shaped trees in four- to six-inch pots. These groomed starters, which need a minimum of pruning and often have large roots to expose upon repotting, can be planted in nice pottery and will look good immediately.
Depending on the size and quality of your local garden center and the area where you live, some of the varieties discussed here may be available as nursery stock plants in one-, two-, or five-gallon nursery pots. Australian cherries, pomegranates, olives, myrtles, figs, rosemary, and citrus are widely available in larger pots even in colder climates where they aren’t planted outside as nursery stock. Plants ordered through the Internet will likely be young and small, allowing you to develop desired shapes as they grow. Most herbs and scented geraniums will be in pots no larger than six inches or one gallon, although they grow quickly and can be shaped in any direction you choose.
Many bonsai guides offer strict instructions for shaping different bonsai with specific forms, keeping them as diminutive as possible. This book changes the parameters, presenting bonsai that are larger than usual and pruning times and patterns that are directed toward production of meaningful crops. Some may be satisfied with a symbolic crop