Kyoto. John H. Martin

to this inner quarter is a pond on the right whose stream runs past the fence to the west. The main hall, the Dai-josho Daigen-gu, built in 1484, is unusual in that it is octagonal in shape with a thatched hip-and-gable roof.

      The shrine is a popular one with the local people, and on ceremonial occasions it also attracts a large crowd from beyond its area. In a crowded city, its location on Yoshida Hill provides a park-like space for a respite from the busy streets below. It is also a popular venue for various ceremonies.

      6 CHION-JI (MILLION TIMES TEMPLE)

      North of Kyoto University is the Chion-ji Temple (not to be confused with the Chion-in Temple, which was described in Tour 3). Chion-ji is also known as the Hyakumanben Temple, the “Million Times Temple.” Founded by Honen as a Jodo temple dedicated to Amida, it received its nickname during the time of Emperor Go-Daigo when a terrible pestilence raged in Kyoto and decimated the population. The Emperor ordered Abbot Sen-a-Koen Shonin to do what he could to insure the Buddha would bring this scourge to an end. The abbot arranged for an extraordinary service in which the Nembutsu was repeated a million times within 17 days to implore the aid of Amida in ending the disease. A great rosary of 1,000 wooden beads was turned as part of the ceremony during the service. The prayers were evidently effective, for on the millionth repetition of the Nembutsu the plague came to an end. In honor of his efforts, the Emperor conferred on the abbot the title of Hyaku-manben Dai Nezu, and a huge, extra long o-juzu (Buddhist rosary) was given to the temple.

      The temple has been the victim of many fires, and was finally and permanently located at its present site in 1662. In 1930, the Dai Nezu, the world’s largest o-juzu, was donated to the temple, and it encircles the interior of the Mie-do, the temple’s main hall. The temple grounds are entered through the Sanmon, the main gateway at Imadegawa-dori, or through the side gate at Higashi-oji-dori. When you enter the grounds through the San-mon, the temple nursery is on the right. Next you encounter the Shaka-do and the water purification basin and, next to it, a Busso-seki, a stone with the engraved footprint of the Buddha. On the left of the main entry path is the Amida-do, which holds a notable image of Amida, the torso of which is said to have been carved by Priest Ennin (Jikaku Daishi)—but whose head appeared of its own miraculous accord thereafter. Directly ahead lies the Mie-do, the Founder’s Hall or Main Hall, with gold plaques at its roof edge impressed with the Buddha’s footprints.

      The interior of the main hall of Chion-ji (Million Times Temple) is draped with the world’s largest rosary.

      The Shaka-do is the second building on the right. Before if stands the aforementioned footprint of the Buddha. Within, the main image is of the gilded seated Shaka, gold hangings enhancing the altar area. To the right at the rear is an image of Fudo (a Buddhist deity), while a guardian stands at the two rear extremities of the building. Behind the building are other structures for the administration of the temple.

      The Mie-do (Founder’s Hall) is at the north end of the compound. On its front veranda to the right sits an image of Binzuru, the disciple of Buddha who failed in keeping to the standards of the faith. In life he was a physician, and thus some of the faithful use him as a talisman for curing portions of their body by rubbing Binzuru followed by their afflicted area. The interior of the Mie-do is resplendent with its large gold canopy over gold and black lacquered altar furniture. Black and gold brocade covers the altar, while a red and gold brocade covers the furniture before the main image of Genchi Shonin, a disciple of Honen, a rosary in his hand, in the center of the hall. The image is enshrined in a gilt case in the shape of a temple. Two large pine trees in urns at the large altar table contrast with the golden hangings from the ceiling. The bracketing of the beams above the front altar area ends in the shape of a dragon’s head to the east and west while the fronts of the beams are in the shape of lion’s heads. The ramma (transoms) over the horizontal beams have been carved in the shape of colored storks, a number of other birds and cherry blossoms. To the left of the main altar is an image of Amida as well as a number of ihai (memorial tablets), while to the right is a one-story gilt pagoda and an image of Honen in a shrine case in the shape of a golden temple.

      The huge Hyakumanben Dai Nezu (rosary) of 1,080 beads is thought to be the largest such rosary in the world. It was given to the temple in 1930 to commemorate the 1,250th anniversary of the death of the Chinese monk Shan-tao (Zendo), who is considered the originator of the beliefs of the Jodo sect of Buddhism. This huge rosary is looped in double strands about the interior of the Miedo. It is 328 feet (100 m) in circumference and weighs 176 pounds (80 kg). On the 15th of each month, a special service that uses the Dai Nezu takes place.

      Chion-ji is located opposite the campus of Kyoto University. Take bus 203 or 206 to the Hyakumanben bus stop. The temple is open from 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.

      GETTING THERE

      Heian Shrine is the highlight of this tour, and its gardens are not to be missed. The best time to visit is April, when its numerous cherry trees are in bloom. Take bus 5 or 32 to the Kyoto Kaikan Bijutsukan-mae bus stop. The shrine entrance is at the head of Jingu-michi-dori beyond the huge red torii that towers over that street. The shrine is open from 8:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. from April through October and from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. from November through March. Entry to the main part of the grounds is without charge, but there is an entry fee for the gardens.

      If you wish to end the tour at Heian Shrine or the adjacent Okazaki Park complex, transportation by bus 5 or 32 from the Kyoto Kaikan Bijutsukan-mae bus stop or buses on Higashioji-dori can be taken to various parts of the city. From the northern sector of the tour, three streets to the west of Imadegawa-dori is a terminal of the Keihan electric railway, where escalators take you to trains going south. Various buses are also available at the intersection of Imadegawa-dori and the rail terminal.

      Walking Tour 7

      NANZEN-JI AREA

      The Backward-looking Amida and the Tiger Cub Zen Garden

      1 Zenrin-ji/Eikan-do Temple 禅林寺/永観堂

      2 Nomura Museum 野村美術館

      3 Nanzen-ji Temple 南禅寺

      4 Nanzen-ji Subtemples 南禅寺塔頭

      5 Lake Biwa Canal 琵琶湖疎水