The Camino Portugues. Kat Davis. Читать онлайн. Newlib. NEWLIB.NET

Автор: Kat Davis
Издательство: Ingram
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Жанр произведения: Книги о Путешествиях
Год издания: 0
isbn: 9781783626366
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gain; there is, however, a considerable amount of walking on paved and cobbled paths/roads which can be hard on your feet – especially when walking for 6–7 hours, day after day. Some stages may require you to walk more than 25km per day on consecutive days, so a general level of fitness is required. Try to build up your fitness at home by walking on consecutive days and carrying your full pack; this way you can address any niggles and sore spots before starting. The most common problems are blisters, dehydration and back-ache from carrying too much weight, but these issues can be remedied by stopping as soon as you feel a hot spot and applying a plaster, keeping your fluids up and packing as light as possible. Always listen to your body and rest when you need to.

      Credential and stamps

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      Credential, scallop shell and Compostela

      Typically, pilgrims collect stamps (carimbo/sello) in a credential, which is required in order to stay in albergues, and also acts as proof of your pilgrimage, enabling you to receive the Compostela (certificate of completion of pilgrimage) in Santiago.

      The all-important credential is available in the following places:

      Lisbon

       cathedral, open Sun–Mon 9am–5pm, Tues–Sat 9am–7pm

       Basílica dos Mártires on Rua Serpa Pinto, open Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat–Sun 10am–7.30pm

      Porto

       cathedral, open daily 9am–6.30pm (closed Sunday 12.30–2.30pm)

      Tui

       cathedral, open daily 10.45am–1pm & 4–8pm (May–Jun); Mon–Sat 10.45am–8pm, Sun 10.45am–1pm & 4–8pm (Jun–Sep); daily 10.45am–1pm & 4–7pm (Sep–May)

      If you want to leave home equipped with a credential, contact the pilgrim association nearest you. There is a directory of associations at www.caminodesantiago.gal (English-language option available). You can also purchase one from the store on this popular Camino forum: www.santiagodecompostela.me

      You need to collect at least one stamp per day (two during the last 100km) in your credential to be eligible for the Compostela. Stamps can often be obtained from albergues, churches, turismos (tourist offices), Junta de Freguesia (parish board)/Câmara Municipal (city hall) in Portugal, museums, cafés, bars, restaurants, government buildings and many other businesses.

      Shell

      This is a symbol of St James that is carried by many pilgrims, often attached to backpacks. In book five of The Codex Calixtinus, the first ever ‘Pilgrim’s Guide’ written in the 12th century about the Camino Frances, there is a record of shells being sold to pilgrims outside Santiago Cathedral. There are many legends relating to how and why the shell became the symbol of St James; one states that as the boat carrying his martyred body approached Galicia, it hit a storm and he was washed overboard only to be found on a beach covered in scallop shells. It is also thought pilgrims used the shell as a scoop for food and water.

      If desired, shells can be obtained from Lisbon at the Alpriate Albergue (end of first stage from Lisbon, a plastic version); Porto at the Arte Sacra shop opposite Clérigos Tower, Rua da Assunção no.36; Tui at the Baixo Minho shop on Rúa Ordóñez; or online from www.santiagodecompostela.me

      Compostela

      This is the official certificate confirming your pilgrimage, provided you fulfil the following requirements: you walked at least the last 100km to Santiago (from Tui on the Central Camino or Vigo on the Coastal Camino); you have a stamped credential (with at least two stamps per day in the last 100km); your motivation for walking was spiritual or religious. Pilgrims with different motivations will receive a document called the ‘certificado’.

      The Compostela is available in Santiago from the Pilgrim’s Office, Rúa Carretas no.33.

      Pilgrim etiquette

      It’s worth remembering at the end of a long day when you’re possibly tired, hungry, aching and longing for a bed, that many of the people working in albergues are volunteers who have given up their time to help you. Perhaps the albergue is full and you have to keep walking, but don’t despair: the Camino has a way of providing and you may end up with a great story to tell. Respect your fellow pilgrims and the locals, and cherish the incredible friendships that you’ll no doubt form.

      Lisbon

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      Arco da Rua Augusta, Praça do Comércio in Lisbon

      By air

      Lisbon’s Humberto Delgado airport is 7km from the city centre. Its website (www.aeroportolisboa.pt) gives details of flight operators from destinations across the world. Transport from the airport includes:

       metro – a journey of about 20 minutes, at €1.90 (including 50 cents for the ‘Viva Viagem’ rechargeable card). Take the red line to Alameda then change onto the green line for Rossio (depending on where you’re staying). See www.metrolisboa.pt

       bus – Aerobus runs every 20–25 minutes, at €3.50. You can purchase a ticket from the driver. See www.aerobus.pt

       taxi – expect to pay €12–15 to the city centre

      By rail

      Santa Apolónia or Parque das Nações are the two stations you’re likely to arrive at if coming from Porto or abroad. Santa Apolónia is closest to the centre but both have metro connections: see www.cp.pt.

      By bus

      Sete Rios in the north west of Lisbon is the arrival point for long-distance bus travel with Eurolines (www.eurolines.com), Rede Expressos (www.rede-expressos.pt) and InterNorte (www.internorte.pt). The closest metro is a few minutes’ walk at Jardim Zoologico on the blue line.

      Gare do Oriente bus station in the Parque das Nações area is the arrival point for northern Portugal and Spanish travel; see Renex (www.renex.pt), Internorte (www.internorte.pt), and Avanza (www.avanzabus.com). Gare do Oriente metro station is on the red line; change at Alameda onto the green line to Rossio for the centre.

      Porto

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      Porto and Ponte D Luís I

      By air

      Porto’s Francisco Sá Carneiro airport (www.aeroportoporto.pt) is 20km from the city centre. Transport from the airport includes:

       metro – about 30 minutes, at €2.45 (including 60 cents for the ‘Andante’ rechargeable card). Take the purple line ‘E’ and get off at Trindade (depending on where you’re staying). See www.metrodoporto.pt

       bus – Terravision runs an hourly