Find the yellow arrow on the bottom right corner of the cathedral entrance facade and take the street to the right, Cruzes da Sé, heading east. Continue into Rua de São João da Praça, through Largo de São Rafael, take the right fork at the orange building onto Rua de São Pedro, then keep right into Largo do Chafariz de Dentro (580m). The Museu do Fado is across the road: www.museudofado.pt, closed Mondays, €5. Cross the square onto Rua dos Remédios, go uphill and straight into Rua do Paraiso, under an arch, into Rua do Mirante then downhill. KSO across a junction into Rua da Cruz de Santa Apolónia, passing Café Santa Clara (RH corner), and go straight onto Calçada da Cruz da Pedra, passing the Santa Apolonia container terminal (RHS) then taking the right fork onto Rua Madre de Deus. Shortly after, pass the Museu Nacional do Azulejo. 2.7km
This decorative tile museum is housed in the opulent 16th-century Mosteiro da Madre de Deus and includes a panoramic Lisbon pre-earthquake cityscape. (Rua da Madre de Deus 4, www.museudoazulejo.pt, closed Mondays, €5.)
Continue under the railway line into Rua de Xabregas, Calçada Dom Gastão, Rua do Grilo, Rua do Beato, then pass old warehouses on Rua do Açúcar. Keep right at the leafy Praça David Leandro da Silva opposite the former splendid wine warehouse Abel Pereira da Fonseca (2.2km). Built in 1917, grapevines surround the large wine barrel-like round windows. Go straight into Rua Fernando Palha. At the next junction cross Av Infante Dom Henrique, turning left then immediately right onto Rua do Vale Formoso. Follow this for 1.2km before going through an underpass then take the first right onto Rua Gaivotas em Terra, then left onto Av Fernando Pessoa. Pass a Pingo Doce supermarket (LHS) before reaching a roundabout at the beginning of the Parque das Nações. 4.8km/7.5km
Developed for the 1998 World Expo, ‘Nations Park’ includes an Oceanarium, Casino, Vasco da Gama Tower, cable car, gardens, monuments and the impressive Oriente station, designed by Santiago Calatrava.
Accommodation nearby: Pousada de Juventude-Parque das Nações (Rua de Moscavide, tel 218 920 890, www.pousadasjuventude.pt, shared and private rooms, kitchen, €16+, +2.1km). TRYP Lisboa Oriente (Av Dom João II, tel 218 930 000, www.tryporiente.com, +1km). ***Hotel Ibis Lisboa Parque das Nações (Rua do Mar Vermelho, tel 213 180 049, www.ibis.com, +1.1km). ****VIP Executive Arts Hotel (Av Dom João II 47, tel 210 020 400, www.viphotels.com, +1.4km).
Vasco da Gama Tower, Parque das Nações
Cross the roundabout, passing the large Pavilhão do Conhecimento (science and technology museum, RHS), then turn right through the trees towards the Oceanarium and the River Tagus. This is the longest waterway in Portugal and Spain, running for approximately 1007km from Spain’s Serra de Albarracín to the Atlantic Ocean. Turn left to follow the river for the next 4km through the expo development. (For Oriente station and Vasco da Gama Mall with shops, supermarket and food court, turn left at the MEO Arena.) Pass the sail-shaped Vasco da Gama Tower. Vasco da Gama (1460–1524) was the first explorer to sail from Europe to India. The observation tower (145m) is Lisbon’s tallest building. About 800m further on, pass a statue of Queen Catherine of Braganza then join a wooden boardwalk and go under Ponte Vasco da Gama (17km long!). After 1.1km reach the Trancão tributary and turn left, following the tributary under the IC2 and railway tracks (Sacavém station is on the LHS) to reach the N10 in Sacavém. The slightly hidden petrol station (LHS) sells water and there is a café diagonally left behind the park. 5.2km/12.7km
Turn right and cross the bridge, turning left immediately onto a dirt path and down to the river past a Toyota dealership (RHS). Shortly after, turn left onto a paved road, following as it bends right, then left and under a green pipe. Go under the A1 and follow the dirt road then path beside the tributary for 2.7km until the path veers right, away from the river and becomes a dirt road. After a further 2.6km pass the ruins of the large Quinta do Monteiro Mor (RHS, 17th century, with obscene graffiti). 6.2km/18.9km
Veer right here, then in 1.2km pass the dilapidated red Quinta do Brasileiro (RHS, with tower) and pass a small bridge (don’t cross it unless you’re going to the café in Granja +130m). Join a paved road passing factories then KSO across the roundabout and for a further 850m into Largo de Alpriate, ending the stage at the blue-and-white painted Albergue de Peregrinos (RHS) in Alpriate. 2.9km/21.8km
ALPRIATE, 38M
A peaceful hamlet with two cafés and a welcoming albergue run by Via Lusitana volunteers.
Where to eat: Café Grillus +50m, turn right after the albergue. Café Nadia +280m, opposite the soccer field.
Accommodation: Albergue de Peregrinos (Largo de Alpriate 13, tel 915 595 213, www.alpriate.vialusitana.org, 12 beds, kitchen, €8).
STAGE 2
Alpriate to Vila Franca de Xira
| Start | Albergue de Peregrinos, Alpriate |
| Finish | Vila Franca de Xira train station |
| Distance | 19km |
| Total ascent | 118m |
| Total descent | 140m |
| Difficulty | Easy |
| Time | 5hr |
| Cafés | Alpriate, Póvoa de Santa Iria (3.8km), Praia dos Pescadores (5.2km), Alverca (9.4km), Alhandra (15km), Vila Franca de Xira (19km) |
| Accommodation | Alpriate, Vila Franca de Xira (19km) |
| Notes | The route passes Alverca, Alhandra and Vila Franca de Xira train stations, providing options for alternative stages. |
This stage follows quiet back roads, dirt paths, peaceful boardwalks through wetlands and a short section along the N10 highway before joining a delightful riverside path for the approach to Vila Franca de Xira.
Leaving the albergue, follow the arrows in front of the yellow house then turn right onto Rua da Vinha. After 850m take the right fork onto a farm track and follow this to a paved road then turn right. Just before the tunnel, turn left onto a dirt track. KSO to reach a road (with a car yard in front) and turn right then go under the A1. Continue for 1km to a large roundabout (with a fountain) on the edge of Póvoa de Santa Iria. 3.8km