Méga Spílio monastery
STAGE 2
Méga Spílio monastery (1000m) to Áno Lousí (1050m) via Kserókambos/Mt Khelmós (1687m)
| Start point | Méga Spílio monastery |
| Distance | 17km |
| Difficulty | 2 |
| Walking time | 6hr |
| Height gain | 750m |
| Height loss | 700m |
| Waymarks | Blue (and some yellow) to Livádhi Louká, some orange across Kserókambos, green to Valvoúsi |
This is a long but truly beautiful hike climbing through dense fir forest, then across a 1600m plateau beneath the high peaks and ski slopes of Mt Khelmós, before descending through Alp-like meadows to the shepherds’ village of Áno Lousí. This is remote terrain. You probably won’t see a soul for most of the day. There’s no reliable water after Psilós Stavrós and low cloud can roll into the plateau, so be prepared.
If it sounds too strenuous (and especially if you have overnighted in Zakhloroú), you could instead take the train to Kalávrita and then follow the E4 road route – or the red-waymarked mountain bike trail – up to the col of Áyios Nikólaos and down to Áno Lousí (about 3hr). Both are well marked on the Anávasi map.
Either way you should pre-book the Hotel O Spérhos – simple but friendly, and the only option in the village (Andréas and Toúla Pavlópoulos, tel 26920-83348, mob 694-4542413, little or no English spoken).
In front of the monastery guesthouse, turn sharp L (blue arrow) up a stepped path, then R passing a cemetery and through a gate in the lee of an overhanging boulder – note the blue-on-white (BW) and yellow-on-white (YW) waymarks which guide us for much of the morning.
Follow the broad path for a minute or so. Our preferred route then turns sharp L up a path which climbs to the restored stone fortress atop the monastery cliffs. The balustrade is still largely intact, but for those who might find the exposure disturbing, an alternative route is suggested below. Continue N behind the fort – there may be fallen trees – to a dam of round stones in wire blocks; then up to a second dam, in front of which you turn R and scramble up to a clear track (20min). Follow this R (SE), with expansive views to the south past Kalávrita to distant Mt Olonós. The going is easy, apart from three washed-out gullies (take care). After about half an hour, you reach the 1150m ridge of Psilós Stavrós, with five interlinked wooden water troughs filled by a big black hosepipe (50min).
Alternative route to the ridge
An alternative route, avoiding the exposure, follows the broad path to a cross, then descends L on loose stones, past the base of a crag (BW and YW waymarks), before climbing steeply through fir forest, across a wooden footbridge, and up to the ridge just S of the troughs.
On the ridge near Psilós Stavrós
From the troughs, continue briefly S along the ridge, then follow a good path (and the hosepipe) R, contouring round a gentle summit. Resume along the ridge line, climbing steadily through fir forest (BW and a few YW waymarks). Look out for harebells, leopard’s bane, nodding cyclamen, squeaking chaffinches and the occasional squawking woodpecker. About 20min from the troughs, with large lumps of conglomerate rock ahead, bear L along a small clear path descending gently, then round a corner and more steeply, over loose stones.
You enter the fir-cloaked Kaloyerávlako valley – mossy rocks, forget-me-nots, green marten droppings – and almost meet the stream (normally flowing until late May/early June). Continue along the R (true L) bank, joining an old cement conduit. Where the conduit crosses on a flimsy bridge (1hr 30min), walk down to the stream, jump across and up the far bank for 30 metres to rejoin the path alongside the conduit. About 20min later, you reach the broader, meadowy area of Alinísia (1300m); great camping.
Keep following the L (true R) bank near the pipe and stream. The path ascends briefly, then drops to cross the stream (faded BW waymark on a low rock) and resumes its climb more steeply; red paint splodges help through some messy switchbacks. It levels out around 1400m and follows the daisy-specked banks of the now-dry stream, before joining a dirt road (2hr 15min) at a yellow-and-black signpost pointing back to ‘Méga Spílio 1h45’. Follow this L/straight, towards ‘Xerokampos Helmos Ski Center 1h10’. After a minute or so, ignore a second signpost (‘Peristéra 4h45’, etc) and stay on the dirt road, ignoring smaller jeep tracks L. After 15min along the valley floor you reach the lovely open meadows of Livádhi Louká, carpeted with millions of daisies in May. Stay on the dirt road to a fork (2hr 45min) near a hunters’ hut with two benches.
Livádhi Louká
As the Anávasi map shows, there are several routes up to the Kserókambos plateau. In low cloud, you could follow the main dirt road (L, then keep R). Otherwise, our preferred route is to fork R past the hut. After 5min, at a multiple fork, keep R and immediately L to skirt the base of a grassy hump. Behind this, ignore a jeep track climbing steeply ahead and bear R (W) up a gentler jeep track, which then climbs in earnest – with a few unnecessary curves – to reach the grassy watershed (3hr 10min). This is a good lunch spot, with far-reaching views west over endless layers of jagged, blue-grey mountains.
Follow the ridge L (S) – largely trailless, with occasional orange splodges – becoming steeper, stonier and treeless: rock partridge terrain. After a steep step between two outcrops of conglomerate boulder, bear R and resume L to reach the concrete 1687m trig point (3hr 40min). The rocky pyramid of Neraidhórakhi (2339m) is visible ahead (south), with the Khelmós ski slopes and buildings below.
Here, turn L (ESE) following the ridge and orange splodges (note: these also continue R/WSW). After 8min, descend a lip into a grassy gully and follow a faint jeep track down this (SSE) to rejoin the main dirt road (3hr 55min).
Follow this R (SSE), passing a crude shepherds’ hut after 15min, to reach an asphalt road (4hr 15min). Turn R and immediately join the main road from Kalávrita to the ski centre; continue along this (NW). After 2min, at a L bend, take the path R, signed ‘Kalávrita 2h30’. The clear path, waymarked with green triangles, descends steadily W through fir forest, crossing the main road twice. Be prepared for passing mountain bikers, and even motocrossers at weekends. After 45min, you see the new chalets of Valvoúsi ahead/R, tucked among alpine meadows, and soon join the dirt road that serves them, next to an old yellow-black post. Continue straight (W) along the dirt road for 5min to join the main Kalávrita–Lousí road by a small blue sign (‘Valvoúsi alt. 1140m’) above some new stone chalets (5hr 15min). Here, the route may become messy, especially if more chalets are built; if so, follow the main road L (SW) to the ridge and Áyios Nikólaos chapel (1.2km).
From the small blue sign, turn R along the main road for 150 metres and, by two telephone poles and a wooden sign ‘Aroania Village II’, turn sharp L into a field. Follow the L edge of the field to a wooden telephone pole, passing right next to it, climbing very slightly and bearing L (200°) onto a short section of old path, then up a small streambed to a new but uninhabited chalet. Behind