Kilimanjaro. Alex Stewart. Читать онлайн. Newlib. NEWLIB.NET

Автор: Alex Stewart
Издательство: Ingram
Серия:
Жанр произведения: Книги о Путешествиях
Год издания: 0
isbn: 9781783625765
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Min temp (°C) Rainfall (mm) January 29 10 60 February 29 10 100 March 27 11 170 April 25 13 370 May 22 11 230 June 21 8 50 July 20 9 20 August 22 8 25 September 24 8 25 October 26 11 40 November 27 10 110 December 28 10 100 Image

      Silhouetted figures on Mawenzi ridge watching the sunrise (Rongai Route, Mawenzi Tarn Hut to Kibo Huts)

      Having plumped on a season in which to make the climb to the summit, it is also worth trying to coordinate your climb with the full moon since the final push to the summit is conducted in the small hours of the morning. Almost all nights on Kilimanjaro are clear so climbing to the crater rim by moonlight makes the night time ascent more enjoyable and potentially even more beautiful. As a rough guide, a full moon rises at sunset and sets at sunrise, at about the time the sun actually becomes visible in the sky. Strong moonlight to illuminate the path during your ascent makes this the ideal time to tackle the last haul to the crater rim, however, the best conditions are probably a couple of days after the full moon as then the moon begins to set about an hour later each day. This means that at around 5.00am the sky is still lit by the moon and the critical section of the climb can be tackled relatively easily.

      In order to coordinate your climb with the full moon and make the most of this period, those embarking on a five-day climb should aim to start the trek three days prior to the full moon and those completing the climb in six days should aim to commence their trip four days ahead of the full moon.

      As you approach the crater rim, you may also become aware of the morning star, a planet (usually Venus), which becomes visible just before sun rise. The Chagga call this star ‘Ngatunyi’, which means ‘the star that guides nocturnal travellers safely home’.

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      Mawenzi seen above band of cloud at dusk from Kibo Huts (Rongai Route, Mawenzi Tarn Hut to Kibo Huts)

      Kilimanjaro attracts a great number of trekkers who have never undertaken a multi-day walk, and certainly haven’t contemplated doing so at altitude. The mountain’s environment is regularly underestimated and the result can be fatal. Although many hundreds of people reach the summit without incident, many more don’t make it because they fail to prepare and then ascend too quickly and suffer from altitude sickness. It’s worth noting that Uhuru Peak is several hundred metres higher than Everest Base Camp, yet climbers in the Himalayas typically take at least two weeks to reach this height on Everest.

      Getting to the top of Kilimanjaro demands mental preparation as well as physical fitness. Embarking on an ascent that will take several days and will culminate at almost 6000m is a very different proposition to a walking trip based in one place or predominantly at a single elevation. With a central base, you are able to choose whether or when to go walking. As a member of an organised group on a multi-day ascent, you will have a schedule to maintain and will be expected to walk day after day, rain or shine, whether you fancy it or not. There are few opportunities to escape if you begin to falter, other than to stop and descend.

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      Path across the barren, hostile Saddle towards Kibo Huts (Marangu Route)

      The most efficient way to get fit for climbing Kilimanjaro is to trek up and down hills. Jogging helps to build stamina and endurance, although there is little you can do to aid acclimatisation, short of spending time at altitude. By walking frequently, at the very least your body is becoming used to the rhythm and rigours of life on the path. When planning your trip, also carefully consider including an extra day for acclimatisation. The additional cost is relatively inexpensive when compared to the frustration of having to descend without having made it to the highest point. Once you arrive on the foothills of the mountain and the path winds away from you into the forest and ever upward, you will be grateful for the preparation and will be able to open your eyes and mind fully to the incredible experience ahead.

      Mental preparation will be invaluable when high on the mountain, exhausted and facing potential extended periods of intense cold and discomfort. There will certainly also be times of confusion and times when your western sensibilities are overwhelmed by the sights and smells of life on Kilimanjaro. In order to successfully reach the summit, you must be able to adapt to a whole new range of conditions and circumstances.

      If you have significant doubts, forget it. Three or four days into an ascent is no time to discover that you don’t enjoy trekking. The financial outlay alone required to undertake an ascent of Kilimanjaro ought to be sufficient to ensure that you do think carefully about going, make suitable preparations and then savour every moment of the trip.

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      Porters on the trail above Machame Hut (Machame Route, Machame Hut to Shira Camp)

      Information under this heading is particularly prone to change, especially those details relating to air travel; schedules and times can change and routes can be introduced or cancelled. Make sure to check all of the details with a travel agent or the airline in advance of making a booking.

      By air

      It is possible to access Kilimanjaro by air from a number of directions, either flying to Nairobi in Kenya or to Dar es Salaam or, most conveniently, to Kilimanjaro International Airport in Tanzania. Many trekkers fly to Nairobi, taking advantage of the more frequent flights and the cheaper deals. From here there are daily land and air connections to Dar es Salaam and Kilimanjaro Airport. It is in fact far easier to access Arusha or Moshi by road from Nairobi than it is from Dar es Salaam (see ‘By land’ section).

      If you are flying from Europe, it takes 10–14 hours to fly to Tanzania, depending on the route taken and the number of stops made. However, because Tanzania is only three hours ahead of GMT (two hours ahead of British Summer Time), there is minimal jet lag to overcome.

      Kilimanjaro International Airport is around 40km west of Moshi and 50km east of Arusha, to the south-west of the mountain. It has a small terminal that can be easily negotiated and all essential facilities including restaurants, cafés, shops, ATMs and a bureau de change. Currently Kilimanjaro International