APHRODITE
There are two legends that link Aphrodite’s name to Cyprus; her birth and the time spent with her lover, Adonis. According to legend, the goddess of love and beauty rose from the sea near Paphos after Cronos cut off Uranus’ genitals and threw them into the water. Aphrodite was married to Hephaestus but had many lovers, the most famous of which was Adonis. Myrrha – who was to be Adonis’ mother – was cursed by Aphrodite to fall in love with her own father, King Cinyras of Cyprus. When Cinryas found out that he’d been tricked, the pregnant Myrrha was banished. She changed into a myrrh tree and the baby was born from that tree. Aphrodite took baby Adonis to Persephone (goddess of the underworld), but she returned when Adonis was a grown, handsome man. Aphrodite and Persephone both wanted to keep Adonis. Zeus dictated that Adonis would spend one third of the year with Aphrodite, one third of the year with Persephone and could decide for himself with whom he would spend the rest of the year. He chose to spend it with Aphrodite.
Start walking slightly uphill on a stony path with occasional glimpses of the sea. Keep on the winding, well-trodden path, ignoring a narrow path on the right and noting the labelled trees and shrubs. As the path turns away from the sea the horizon fills with white limestones and pine-dotted hillsides.
Around the 1km mark the path levels out a bit and runs between thorny gorses. A few hundred metres later it crawls uphill again, and you find yourself walking on giant limestones before reaching a steeper section with some big stone steps. You are soon rewarded with views to the sea, and the path straightens again before climbing uphill for a short section after the 2km mark.
The path gives an excellent view of Chrysochou Bay
Ahead is the peak of Moutti tis Sotiras in the distance, but keep on the track gently turning away from the mountain. About 50min into the walk you arrive at a junction with a giant oak tree, a fountain and the ruins of Pyrgos tis Rigainas (Tower of the Queen). The trail divides here; the Aphrodite Trail continues to the right and the Adonis Trail to the left. Both are clearly marked.
Turn right on the Aphrodite Trail and follow the wide dirt road, occasionally marked with an ‘E4’, then turn right onto an iron arrow-marked path. Follow this marked path running parallel to a dirt road for a while. When you emerge at a wide dirt road, continue uphill with glimpses of the surrounding hills and sea. Look for the ruins of the tower down below.
At the end of the dirt road the path splits. To the left is a 5min walk to Moutti tis Sotiras’ rocky peak, where a magnificent panorama of the Akamas Peninsula can be enjoyed. Take this, soak up the views and then retrace your steps to the junction with the iron arrow and continue to the left.
Soon the narrow path runs downhill with views to the sea and with towering rocks on the left. Iron arrows occasionally indicate the clearly visible path. Zigzag steeply downhill between wild thyme and thorny bushes for about 40min, and when you reach the dirt road turn right, towards ‘Aphrodite Bath’. This road also has E4 signs.
Walk for about 20min on the dirt road with views to the rugged coastline and the hillside. Soon after you spot the caravans in the campsite, turn right where the sign shows ‘Aphrodite Bath’ and walk back to the pool and then to the car park.
WALK 2
Adonis Trail, Akamas Peninsula
| Start/Finish | Bath of Aphrodite (N35.05610, E32.34589) |
| Distance | 7.5km (4½ miles) |
| Ascent/Descent | 400m/400m |
| Grade | 1 |
| Time | 2hr 30min |
| Refreshments | Restaurant and bar at start point |
| Access | Road signs are easy to follow from Paphos and Polis. Regular buses from Polis. Parking available. |
The second best-known nature trail on the Akamas Peninsula runs along with the Aphrodite Trail for the first 2.5km – until the Pyrgos tis Rigainas.
A short section of the trail follows a forest track and then it runs on juniper and pine-covered hillsides, dotted with white limestones with remarkable views to the surrounding hills and the sea around the peninsula. During the second part of the walk you pass striking rock walls in a dry streambed, and the descent at the end gives grand views to Chrysochou Bay. Spring is probably the best time to enjoy this trail, when the hillside is carpeted with colourful wildflowers.
From the car park, go through the gate and follow the paved path to the Bath of Aphrodite, where a sign confirms that ‘the Goddess of love and beauty used to bathe in the small pool of this natural grotto’.
A path marked ‘Nature Trail’ continues from the pool. Shortly the paved path ends; exit through a gate and a few metres later keep left as the ‘Aphrodite and Adonis Trail’ sign indicates. (For the first 2.5km the two trails runs together.) Follow the stony path uphill with occasional glimpses of the sea. Ignore a narrow path on the right and keep to the well-trodden path. Soon this bends away from the sea and the view is dominated by white limestones and pine-dotted hillsides.
The path levels out around the 1km mark, but a few hundreds metres later it crawls uphill again and you walk on giant limestones before reaching a steeper section with steps. There are some views to the sea and the path first levels out and then climbs uphill for a while after the 2km mark. Ahead in the distance is the peak of Moutti tis Sotiras, but the path bends away from it and about 50mins after starting the walk you arrive at a junction with a giant oak tree, a fountain and the ruins of Pyrgos tis Rigainas (Tower of the Queen). The trail splits here; the Adonis Trail continues to the left and Aphrodite Trail to the right.
ADONIS
Adonis – the god of beauty and desire – was born to Myrrha and King Cinyras of Cyprus. Aphrodite and Persephone both wanted to have him, and when Zeus announced that he could spend one third of the year with Aphrodite, the second third with Persephone and he could choose who to spend the rest of the year with, he chose Aphrodite. Adonis died after being attacked by a wild boar, believed to have been sent by one of the jealous gods. He died in Aphrodite’s arms and anemones grow where his blood is said to have fallen.
Take the path on the left, marked ‘Adonis Nature Trail’ and ‘E4’. The well-trodden path gently crawls uphill between bushes and juniper trees. About 20min later it crosses an overgrown track and shortly joins a forest track with a green arrow. A few metres later an E4 sign can be spotted, marking the direction of the Adonis trail. Follow the forest track downhill and leave it to the left where the green arrow and a battered E4 sign indicate. Approximately 1hr 20min into the walk you’ll arrive at the forest junction of Kefalovrisia.
The forest track leading to Kefalovrisia
Turn left on the path marked ‘Adonis Trail’. Walk alongside a dry streambed with rocks towering above on the left; in front, like a well-designed postcard, a green meadow stretches out with the blue sea in the background. The rough path, with a water pipe in the middle, runs steeply downhill and when it becomes smoother you can enjoy the views without the worry of tripping over stones. Occasional green arrows and E4 signs mark the way.
The path widens and levels out, and soon the Adonis Trail leaves the wide track to the right.