Bird Island Trail heads west to a 0.4-mile loop around Pelican Point, passing brittle granite cliffs that do battle with the pounding Pacific. Over time these cliffs crack and fault, forming caves and archways that eventually collapse, leaving spires like Bird Island. Bring your binoculars to scan the thousands of migratory and residential seabirds and shorebirds. In spring and summer the island is a nesting site for hundreds of cormorants, known for their sleek black torsos and snakelike necks. Also keep watch for sea otters floating atop the kelp forests and great blue herons surfing on the thick nearshore kelp rafts. Eventually retrace your steps to the junction with the South Plateau Trail.
As you turn inland along the South Plateau Trail, you’ll soon pass a short spur to Gibson Beach, one of the few wide, protected sandy beaches at Point Lobos. The South Plateau Trail is a nature trail, where numbered markers correspond to a pamphlet in a box at the trailhead near the entrance kiosk. When the trail forks (1.9 miles, 50'), turn left onto the Pine Ridge Trail.
Farther from the sea breeze and salt spray, the Pine Ridge Trail winds through a tall shady grove of Monterey pines—one of only three remaining natural groves on Earth. Similar to the cypress, Monterey pines require heat or fire to release seeds from their cones. Hiking on a carpet of pine needles, you may notice charcoal or basal fire scars on the pines, evidence of controlled burns. In general, natural processes at the reserve are left undisturbed. However, rangers do use fire to promote healthy pine regeneration and to limit wood debris and understory regrowth. Black-tailed deer, white-rumped northern flicker woodpeckers, and western gray squirrels may remind you of the Sierra Nevada. But the ever-present noisy barks of California sea lions carry deep into the grove, a reminder that you’re but a short walk from the fresh, fragrant sea air, salty spray, and soothing waves.
Pristine pocket beaches are nestled under stands of Monterey pine.
As you begin a shady moderate climb, you’ll cross several small plank bridges conveniently placed along the trail over seasonal wet areas. Half a mile later the trail gently descends 0.2 mile to a Y junction. Turn left toward Piney Woods on a level walk, catching ocean glimpses beyond the towering pines. You’ll soon emerge at the parking area. Restrooms, water, and picnic tables are 50 feet farther on your left. If you’re parked along the shore adjacent to the South Shore Trail, continue 100 feet along the paved road.
CHAPTER eight
Garrapata State Park & Point Sur State Historic Park
Garrapata State Park
GARRAPATA STATE PARK offers a scenic slice of the beauty and ruggedness we associate with Big Sur, where redwoods burrow deep within the folds of steep mountains that abruptly rise above a rocky shoreline and wave-washed sandy beaches. On the northern edge of the Big Sur coast, the park features 4 miles of coastline and spans 2879 acres between Andrew Molera State Park to the south and Point Lobos to the north. Created in 1983, Garrapata is one of the more recent additions to the state park system along the central California coast. Coastal and inland access and miles of hiking trails promise numerous recreational opportunities.
Do heed tick warnings. In 1830, Spanish explorers were so exasperated by these blood-sucking arachnids, they named the canyon and creek Garrapata (Spanish for “tick”). Despite its unappealing name, the park shelters rich and diverse plant and animal life. The terrain encompasses five vegetation zones: coastal scrub, chaparral, redwood forest, riparian woodland, and mixed evergreen forest. From late December through January and March through April, gray whales migrate along the coast—south for the winter to Baja, then back north to arctic waters in spring, marking the longest migratory route of any mammal in the world. Near the park’s south end, Soberanes Point offers a good vantage point for whale sightings.
As with the other state lands along the Big Sur coast, Garrapata limits trail and road access to day use only, so if you’re planning a visit, arrive early. There is no main entrance or entrance fee. Access is via Highway 1 turnouts, which are often crowded by midday in summer and on weekends. The climate is moderate year-round, with average temperatures between 50°F and 65°F. Weather varies from cool, damp fog to strong onshore winds and the occasional warm, glorious day. Wear layered clothing and be prepared for changing conditions. Fall promises more consistent, warm fogless days, while summer days are often cool, as fog shrouds the coast. After winter rains the bluffs and hillsides sprout verdant plant life that by spring blankets the headlands, valleys, and hillsides amid decadent orange, purple, yellow, and red wildflower blooms.
DIRECTIONS: Garrapata State Park lies 7 miles south of Carmel and 18 miles north of Big Sur. There is no official park entrance. Parking and trail access is via 19 turnouts along Highway 1, the first on the Monterey County line at Mile 67.2 and the last at Mile 65.3. The turnouts correspond to numbered gates. Gates 17, 17A, 18, and 19 lead to Garrapata State Beach, while gates 8, 9, and 10 lead to the Soberanes Point trails.
VISITOR CENTER: Big Sur Station: (831) 667-2315. The station is on Highway 1, 18 miles south of Garrapata State Park. Open daily 8 a.m.–6 p.m. Memorial Day through Labor Day, 8 a.m.–4:30 p.m. the rest of the year.
NEAREST CAMPGROUNDS: The nearest developed state campground is at Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park (see for details). The nearest walk-in campground is at Andrew Molera State Park (see for details).
INFORMATION: Park closes at sunset. Camping and fires are not permitted. Dogs are only allowed on Garrapata Beach (not on trails) and must be kept on a leash at all times (6-foot maximum). Bicycles are permitted only on Rocky Ridge Trail. Do not remove plants, minerals, or other natural features.
WEBSITE: parks.ca.gov
PHONE: (831) 624-4909
Enjoy the journey along the many short spur trails that lead to dramatic vistas and sheltered coves within Garrapata.
Trip 5
COASTAL ACCESS TRAILS
LENGTH AND TYPE: 2-mile out-and-back
RATING: Easy
TRAIL CONDITION: Well maintained, poison oak, good for kids
HIGHLIGHTS: Rugged rocky shores, wave-washed beaches, and isolated coves
TO REACH THE TRAILHEAD: This hike description begins from turnout 17 along Highway 1.
TRIP SUMMARY: The hike stretches about a mile to the south end of the park via the headlands or the beach.
EARLY BEACHCOMBERS