Hiking and Backpacking Big Sur. Analise Elliot Heid

Ventana

      The Ventana Wilderness is named for a unique notch called “The Window” on a granite ridge between Ventana Double Cone and Peak. According to local legend, this notch was once a natural stone arch that created a natural “window,” which is supposedly what inspired the Spanish explorers gazing up toward the peaks to call it Ventana. The Ventana, or “The Slot” as local rock climbers call it, is the 200-foot-deep gap in the ridge. Geologists have yet to find rubble of a collapsed arch to support the legend, but nonetheless there are many arches and small complete “windows” in rock formations in the Santa Lucias. You can view the notch by looking west from Ventana Double Cone or along Coast Ridge Road with views north and looking northeast from Post Ranch Inn.

      Supernatural Stories of Point Lobos

      During the mission period, the Ohlone Indian neophytes at Carmel Mission would go out on foggy evenings to “cheer up” their lonely and forlorn fog spirits. The mission fathers strictly forbade any such pagan activity, and one night they followed them out into the fog and performed an exorcism. The fog spirits flew off angry and offended, departing with howls and causing sadness among the Indians. Some believe poetic justice prevailed, when the priest who performed the exorcism went mad, jumped off a cliff into the sea at Point Lobos, and was drowned.

      A Goddess and a Hidden Gold Mine on Pico Blanco

      With the discovery of gold and silver in Big Sur in the late 19th century, miners began searching for the precious metals along the flanks and valleys of the Santa Lucias. Today, the Pico Blanco area is littered with the rusting remnants of mining operations.

      More than tales of fortunes found, historians have uncovered a curious tale that was circulated in response to the miners’ arrival. According to local legend, an American Indian goddess zealously protected Pico Blanco. Historians recorded these accounts by miners claiming to have encountered the goddess, who cursed them with madness for pursuing gold.

      During this same gold exploration period in Big Sur, a seemingly illiterate prospector named Al Clark became Pico Blanco’s best-known resident. For decades he wandered the area around the mountain and told local ranchers stories of the goddess and a vast subterranean cavern filled with ancient pictographs that matched the descriptions of saber-toothed tigers and mastodons. In an effort to hide the cave, Clark said he used dynamite to destroy its entrance. Clark was an eccentric Columbia University graduate who posed as an illiterate. Rumors swarmed that he also found a hidden gold mine, but since he had no use for money, he left it alone and concealed the mine’s location. Clark’s hoard of gold still remains a mystery.

      CHAPTER four

      Driving & Destinations Along Highway 1

      MORE THAN 3 MILLION VISITORS a year travel Highway 1, so it’s no surprise that sightseers and vacationers have a myriad of services and attractions from which to choose—from resorts, spas, hotels, campgrounds, and retreats to galleries, hot springs, and coastal coffeehouses. The following attractions and businesses are listed in order from north to south under specific categories. While not comprehensive, the listings include many of the Hotels & Motels, Campgrounds & RV Parks, Restaurants & Cafés, Art Galleries, Automotive Services, and Events along Highway 1 between Carmel and San Simeon.

      Hotels & Motels

      LAMP LIGHTER INN SE corner of Ocean Avenue at Camino Real, Carmel-by-the-Sea, [phone], carmellamplighter.com ($185–450/night). Just west of Highway 1, this is one of the most photographed inns in the country, offering rooms and cottages a short stroll from the beach and village.

      CARMEL RIVER INN At Carmel River Bridge, [phone] or [phone], carmelriverinn.com ($165–450/night). Just past Carmel River State Beach, this inn is widely considered the best lodging bargain in Carmel.

      PARK HYATT CARMEL, HIGHLANDS INN 120 Highlands Drive, Carmel, [phone] or [phone], highlandsinn.hyatt.com ($440–675/night). Ocean-view rooms with fireplaces and spa baths, as well as wine tasting and a fantastic restaurant.

      RIVERSIDE CAMPGROUND & CABINS 22 miles south of Carmel, [phone], riversidecampground.com ($90–200/night). Cabins on the Big Sur River.

      BIG SUR RIVER INN 24 miles south of Carmel, [phone] or [phone], bigsurriverinn.com ($125–225/night). Balconies overlook the Big Sur River. Includes heated pool, restaurant, general store, and live entertainment in the bar on weekends.

      GLEN OAKS BIG SUR 25 miles south of Carmel, [phone] ($195–450/night). Standard rooms, as well as four separate cottages for rent in the redwoods, offering both river and forest views.

      BIG SUR CAMPGROUND & CABINS 26 miles south of Carmel, [phone] ($95–450/night). Tent cabins and A-frame cabins with kitchens, fireplaces, and redwood decks overlooking the river.

      FERNWOOD RESORT 26 miles south of Carmel, [phone] ($45–195/night). One of the least expensive spots above the Big Sur River, offering 66 campsites, 10 cabins, and 13 motel-style units.

      BIG SUR LODGE 26 miles south of Carmel, [phone], bigsurlodge.com ($159–364/night). Within Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, this lodge offers simple cottages, a restaurant, gift shop, grocery, laundry, and a heated pool in summer.

      RIPPLEWOOD RESORT 27 miles south of Carmel, [phone], ripplewoodresort.com ($105–225/night). Another affordable option above the Big Sur River, with a convenience store, gas station, and café.

      VENTANA INN 28 miles south of Carmel, [phone] or [phone], ventanainn.com ($440–1,500/night). Nestled on a hillside, this inn offers elegant cottages and luxury suites with ocean or mountain views, as well as a restaurant and spa services.

      POST RANCH 28 miles south of Carmel, [phone] or [phone], postranchinn.com ($675–2,485/night). This cliffside ranch offers rustic yet elegant rooms with awe-inspiring ocean views. Voted one of the best hotels in North America. Award-winning Sierra Mar Restaurant serves world-class cuisine.

      DEETJEN’S BIG SUR INN 28 miles south of Carmel, [phone], deetjens.com ($105–260/night). Rustic, funky rooms offer an offbeat hideaway in a shady redwood canyon.

      ESALEN INSTITUTE 8 miles south of Big Sur, [phone], esalen.org ($140–220/night). Offering natural hot springs and workshops that emphasize the potentialities of human existence.

      LUCIA LODGE 22 miles south of Big Sur and 38 miles north of San Simeon, [phone], lucialodge.com ($150–275/night). These cabins are set along a 300-foot cliff above the Pacific, offering ocean views from the dining deck.

      TREEBONES RESORT 37 miles south of Big Sur and 23 miles north of San Simeon, [phone], treebonesresort.com (campsite: $90/night; yurt: $215–400/night). There are 16 canvas-covered yurts, along with ocean-view campsites and the Wild Coast Restaurant and Sushi Bar, which focuses on sustainably harvested local food. No children under age 6 allowed.

      GORDA SPRINGS COTTAGES 42 miles south of Big Sur and 25 miles north of San Simeon, [phone] or [phone], gordaspringsresort.com ($150–300/night). Cottages feature a private patio overlooking the ocean; some have hot tubs, fireplaces, and ocean views. General store, restaurant, gift shop, and excellent whale-watching. Pet the resident llamas.

      RAGGED POINT INN 50 miles