Carpe diem!
Rick Deutsch “Mr. Half Dome”
Introduction
No temple made with hands can compare with Yosemite. Every rock in its walls seems to glow with life …. The true ownership of the wilderness belongs in the highest to those who love it most.
—John Muir
Yosemite—the very name evokes images of verdant valleys, cascading waterfalls, peaceful meadows, soaring mountains, arching domes, meandering rivers, lush forests, diverse wildlife, and 2,000-year-old giant sequoias. These 1,200 square miles, located in Northern California’s Sierra Nevada mountain range, are the crown jewel of the National Park Service. Yosemite has become a must-see on the list of every outdoor enthusiast. The park’s natural wonders attract people of all kinds, be they old, young, citizens, or foreigners. Nearly 4 million people come each year. With this popularity comes the crush of humanity—out to explore the wonders of nature, many sporting only a backpack, a bottle of water, and a desire to see nature as it has existed for centuries. Yosemite’s hikes are superb, from short jaunts to expeditions of several days. The Yosemite Valley comprises only 1% of the park but is the most popular destination in this paradise; 95% of Yosemite is designated wilderness.
In the wilderness we can seek solitude, devoid of human impact. Recognize that being in the wilderness brings responsibility. You must assess any risks you may encounter and deal with them appropriately. Hiking, climbing, bouldering, encountering wildlife, and gazing over cliffs can be risky. This includes the exhilarating trek up Half Dome. No one will tell you that you cannot go up. No one is there to log you in, examine your gear, or make a judgment as to your ability to do this hike. Beyond the park-wide regulations guiding safety and resource protection, prohibiting certain activities such as BASE jumping, there are only two specific official rules: (1) You cannot camp above 7,900 feet (including the summit), and (2) you need a permit to be on Sub Dome and the cables (more on this in Chapter 7, Preparation).
The Yosemite General Management Plan, drawn up in 1980, cites as one of its goals the promotion of visitor understanding and enjoyment. This is in direct support of the 1864 original Yosemite Grant, signed by President Abraham Lincoln in the midst of the Civil War. The Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees were the first public lands set aside for the people. The 1890 designation as a national park ensured that Yosemite would be available to citizens for their enjoyment, education, and recreation, now and in the future. This book, One Best Hike: Yosemite’s Half Dome, serves as a vehicle to help achieve this goal.
In a great honor, Yosemite was selected as the theme for California on the 2005 U.S. quarter. California’s quarter depicts naturalist and conservationist John Muir admiring a condor and Yosemite’s monolithic granite headwall known as Half Dome. It bears the inscriptions “California,” “John Muir,” “Yosemite Valley,” and “1850,” the year the state was admitted to the Union. Yosemite was honored on the quarter again in 2010, with 3,000-foot-high El Capitan featured. When you consider the varied attractions in California, it is indeed a testament to have Yosemite represent the Golden State to the country and the world. Yosemite has been recognized internationally as well: in 1984 it was designated a World Heritage Site by the United Nations.
Yosemite’s rugged backcountry and 800 miles of trails afford plenty of opportunity to discover oneself. Of all the hikes possible in the park, one of the most popular day hikes is to the top of the signature landmark of the park, Half Dome. Located at the eastern edge of Yosemite Valley, Half Dome is the most hiked mountains in the Sierra Nevada, with more than 40,000 ascents per year. This is a big hike—a full 10- to 12-hour day for most people, comprising nearly 16 miles round-trip. Add to this the 4,737-foot vertical rise (and fall) and the Half Dome hike becomes an extremely strenuous one. Included is a harrowing 425-foot vertical climb up the approximately 45-degree incline of the back side of the granite slope. Not to worry; this is accomplished with the aid of two steel cable handrails.
This guide is for everyone—the person who is not toting the latest in GPS gear or topographical maps of all the nooks and crannies of the park. It’s for those who have a genuine interest in learning about the history of the park, the lives of the Native Americans, and the geology that created these formations, as well as the roles of early explorers and modern conservationists. The focus is on Half Dome. It’s for the person who has thought about doing the hike but doesn’t know much about it. I believe that anyone can successfully complete this hike with three things: education, preparation, and motivation. This book, my website, my blog, my talks, my free Web-enabled device app, and other resources will help with your education. Preparation is up to you. Take this hike seriously. Walking your dog a mile a night will not get you into condition. Your training hikes need to include many hills. If you live in an area without vertical challenges, climb up and down the fire escape stairs in a local high-rise. Finally, be motivated for your reasons and don’t be dragged along by friends if this effort is beyond your capability. The hike is both a goal and a journey. Your adventure will involve strength, risk, and discovery, and this guide will prepare you to be self-reliant.
The hike can be done in one day, or more leisurely in two if time permits. This guidebook describes the most popular day route to the summit. Regardless of your strategy, it will help you prepare prior to leaving home and then help steer you up the mountain on your summit day. My intent is to provide a resource that can enable nearly any physically able person to complete the hike. Further, I believe that this educational guide will enhance visitor understanding and enjoyment of park resources.
I first hiked Half Dome in 1990 and was so moved by the experience that I decided to do it annually. My motivation goes back to the sixth-century tale of Milo of Croton (it was a Greek colony in southern Italy). As a boy, Milo would pick up a small calf on a daily basis. As the calf grew larger, Milo continued to lift the animal, and the boy became stronger. His muscles became so powerful that he could carry the calf with ease when it became a full-size ox. This constant yet gradual training resulted in Milo developing into a man of incredible strength, so much so that he won the ancient Olympic wrestling title a remarkable six consecutive times. He was likely an actual historical person, as he is mentioned by many classical authors, among them Aristotle. Perhaps this is a poor analogy, but maybe by working out on a regular basis and staying in condition for this hike, I will live a few years longer than the actuarial tables project.
While on these hikes, I have noticed many unprepared optimists setting out, knowing little of what lies ahead. Their poor preparation was obvious. I have seen many people suffer from a lack of water, sore muscles, inferior shoes, and a big underestimation of the magnitude of the hike. And yet, I’ve found no other Half Dome–specific hiking guides. You’ll find many general hiking in Yosemite guidebooks, but they cover Half Dome in only a few pages. This guide should fill your knowledge gaps and allow you to hit the trail with confidence.
Welcome to Yosemite!
This book was designed to be small and fit into your pack, so take it on your hike. Many people will be on the trail—you won’t get lost. I’ve included photos of most of the trail, so you won’t wonder what’s in store. Although these