As your feet, naturally, are going to be the most important parts of your body on this holiday, let us start with footwear and work up. The section on mountain safety and emergency services (see page 54) outlines the reasons for taking walking boots, rather than trainers or walking shoes, although on some low-level walks the latter may be adequate. Lightweight walking boots may be suitable for most walking in the Tatras, but you should seek advice at an equipment shop. Whichever kind of footwear you have, make sure that it fits well and is well worn in, because nothing is more certain to spoil your holiday than new boots that have raised blisters by the end of the first day.
The composition of your socks will be a matter of trial and error. Some walkers manage with one thick pair in boots, others find two pairs (a thick pair on top of a thin one) necessary for comfort. Wool is generally most suitable for a thick pair, although thin cotton, silk or acrylic ones are often worn underneath.
Whether you should cover your legs (with trousers or breeches) or bare them (with shorts or skirt) is again up to your own inclination, but if you opt for the latter, be prepared to don waterproof trousers or breeches if it turns cold or windy, especially when stopping for an extended open-air break.
For your upper half, if possible wear something underneath your shirt that will ‘wick’ (carry away) the perspiration from your body, helping to keep your back dry under a rucksack. Whatever the weather down in the valley, always carry at least one warm pullover, and/or a fleece-lined jacket. When you stop, perspiring, for lunch on a high mountain pass or peak, wind whistling across your shoulders, you will need the extra layer. For the same reason, hat and gloves will be appreciated. When you are wet (from rain or perspiration), a spare T-shirt or shirt will be welcome when you stop for lunch, and a sweatband for your head or wrist may be useful.
Looking towards Jahńací Štít from Široké Sedlo in the White Tatras (Red 0930X, Slovakia) (photo: R Turnbull)
Never tackle a mountain without waterproof clothing, carried in your rucksack. There is often some reluctance to don waterproofs, as condensation can make you as wet or wetter than rain, but as many modern waterproofs are breathable, this should not be a problem. In the mountains you should carry a full set of waterproofs, ie trousers and a jacket with hood, or a hat. You may also find gaiters invaluable, as they help to keep water and snow out of your boots.
The most efficient way of carrying all your spare items is in a rucksack, as it leaves both hands free in situations when you need to hold on to something. A small ‘day sack’ will be adequate for most excursions into the mountains. The capacity of rucksacks is usually measured in litres – that is, the amount of water that can be poured inside – and those suitable for day trips are in the 20 to 35 litre range, with smaller ones available for children. Always put both straps over your shoulders – you never know when you may need the full support of both hands and arms in an emergency.
Your choice of rucksack will depend on what you intend to put in it. The very least would include the items mentioned in the section on Mountain Safety and Emergency Services, ie spare clothing, waterproofs, water-bottle, first aid kit, map, compass, whistle and emergency food. Unless you are sure of eating at a mountain chalet, you may also wish to carry your lunch food, and perhaps a camera.
If you are planning to stay overnight in a mountain chalet, a larger rucksack may be needed, for toilet accessories and a sheet sleeping bag, and possibly more spare clothing.
On the waymarked routes no special climbing gear is needed, but if you go off these routes with a mountain guide you may need some form of harness, to be clipped on to some of the ironware encountered. This can be hired locally if necessary – your guide will advise. An ice-axe may be useful if you are visiting the Tatras in late autumn, winter or spring, as snow may then be encountered.
Those who feel uncomfortable on slippery surfaces may wish to take one or two walking sticks or poles, which may also be helpful at any time when descending. They are strongly recommended for anyone walking in the Tatras in late autumn, winter or spring, when snow may cover the routes, even at lower altitudes. Easily packed telescopic poles are available in outdoor equipment shops, but when flying you should pack them in your checked baggage as airlines will not normally allow them to be taken into the cabin.
A torch will be needed for a few waymarked routes in Poland, which descend into or through caves. In any case, it is a good idea to carry a small head torch (with spare battery and bulb) in case you get benighted on tricky mountain paths – this is more likely in the late season (September/October) or in winter.
You should carry a fully charged mobile phone in case of an emergency (see Appendix F for emergency numbers and add them to your phone’s contact list). Bear in mind that reception may not be available in some areas, although wi-fi is available at some places. Try not to use your phone for inessential purposes to conserve the battery for emergencies. Some phones include GPS (global positioning system via satellite), which may help with navigation, but you should not rely on this, in case of lack of reception. Always acquire the relevant map – see below.
Maps
No walker should venture into the mountains without a good walking map of the area. Even though ‘tourist routes’ in the Tatras are usually very well waymarked, it is possible to get lost or disorientated, or signs and waymarks can go missing, so a map is essential (it can be embarrassing to have to ask strangers to see theirs).
Always keep in contact with your map – in other words, whenever you reach a path junction, a chalet or other identifiable feature, identify your location on the map, then if you do get lost you should have some idea of where you are.
Although there is no published equivalent of the Ordnance Survey for Poland or Slovakia, an increasingly wide range of commercially published maps is available, covering various parts of the Tatras – we found 10 different publishers on our last visit! Scales range from 1:5000 (20cm = 1km, or approximately 25 inches = 1 mile) to 1:100,000 (20cm = 1km, or approximately 5/8th inch = 1 mile). However, the most suitable maps for walkers are at 1:25,000 (4cm = 1km, or approximately 2½ inches = 1 mile) or 1:30,000 = 1km, or just under 2 inches = 1 mile).
Because of the way the border runs, most maps cover both sides to some extent. The names of most places in the mountains are slightly different in Polish and Slovak, but most maps show both versions, at least on or near the border. So if you plan to spend all or most of your time in one country, it will be best to obtain that country’s maps, but they may be suitable for an occasional trip into the other country.
Try to buy at least one map before you go, so that you can familiarise with the area, and in conjunction with this book, plan your walks in advance. Many suitable maps can be bought at specialist map shops in other countries, or online, although this will probably be more expensive than buying them locally. There are many places in the Tatras where you can buy maps, including bookshops, hotels, street kiosks and tourist information offices.
If you wish to visit the area around Podbanské in Slovakia, note that it may not be covered on some High Tatras maps and you may need to buy a sheet for the Western Tatras (Západné Tatry).
Some of these maps have additional general information on the reverse, but usually in Slovak or Polish only (at the time of writing only one of the maps listed had a fully English version – ‘Tatraplan sheet 2502’, see below). The key on nearly all other maps at least includes a translation of symbols into English, and it is possible that other fully English versions will become available – check when buying. (Some of the map text is tiny, so you may find a magnifying glass helpful – some compasses incorporate one.)
Starý Smokovec church, Slovakia
Note that some maps also show cross-country skiing and cycling routes, and may appear very similar to walking routes and educational trails. Check the symbols carefully in the key.
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