A key consideration will be your attitude to chairlifts and the closely linked question of ‘purity’ when it comes to walking every step of the way. There are at least four big climbs that could be replaced by a chairlift and the time saved could either be spent with a beer in a mountain hut enjoying the views or walking further along the path and saving a day – the question is whether you will still be able to claim that you walked from Munich to Venice!
Superstrong, superfast walkers will beat the times in the schedule but that doesn’t help if there isn’t accommodation further along the route. If you are desperate to complete the trip in one go but don’t have the 31 to 33 days needed (30 days with some contingency and allowance for travel at either end), the schedule can be reduced by about 4 to 5 days without needing to carry a tent. The tool for doing this is the Route Planner in Appendix A.
Alternatively, if you would prefer to tackle the route in chunks (described as Sections in this guide), there are five natural divisions, each defined by good entry and exit points for public transport. These are:
| Munich to Hall | 7 days |
| Hall to Vandoies (Niedervintl) | 6 days |
| Niedervintl to Alleghe | 6 days |
| Alleghe to Belluno | 5 days |
| Belluno to Venice | 6 days |
When to go
Summer snow on the Geierjoch
The likelihood of snow on the passes determines the short length of the Alpine walking season – from early July through to the third week in September. The huge network of Alpine huts only opens when the passes clear of snow and the walkers start to turn up.
Although it can vary significantly from year to year there is greater likelihood of lingering snow in July. Alpine thunderstorms are more frequent in July and August, and September is the most settled month. The peak season, coinciding with holidays, is August, so timing a trip to make the best use of September (the quietest month) makes sense. This would involve starting in Munich towards the end of August and finishing the alpine traverse by the third week in September. The only downside is that the alpine flowers will be past their best.
Accommodation
A convivial hut scene (Photo: Max and Frances Harre)
Most nights on the schedule described in this guide, and especially those spent at altitude, will involve staying in a mountain hut. If this is your first long-distance trip in the Alps, mountain huts may take some getting used to but the social aspect of sharing a ‘mountain pilgrimage’ with a varied group of, largely German, fellow travellers, in family groups, couples or walking alone, could be said to be a key part of the Munich to Venice experience.
By sharing rooms and evening meals everyone soon gets to know each other and a mutually supportive network is formed. Germans generally speak good English and will happily help explain the difference between Leberknödel and Speckknödel. Groups emerge and evolve as walkers on different schedules arrive and depart.
In addition to mountain huts, some nights will be spent in delightful small alpine hotels. These are comfortable and provide a welcome change from the huts. In the summer season they offer surprisingly good value. And if you prefer to avoid the communal living, alternative itineraries which minimise the use of huts are described in the introductions to some of the sections.
Charges
A reasonable rule of thumb is to budget 50 euros a day although this depends on what you choose to eat and drink rather than your choice of accommodation. There is little difference between the cost of a small hotel and a mountain hut, although sleeping in large and often noisier hut dormitories can be cheaper.
Many huts are owned by the German, Austrian or Italian Alpine clubs where Alpine Club members get a discount. Given the number of huts on the itinerary, this discount and other membership benefits (including insurance), it’s worth joining an Alpine Club (see Appendix B). If you’re British the simplest option is to join the British section of the Austrian Alpine Club – the modest fee includes insurance.
Booking ahead
Booking into the mountain huts ahead is generally straightforward and fairly casual, particularly once you get to Italy. Currently some of the German and Austrian huts ask for a deposit via bank transfer, which can be expensive outside the Eurozone, and if you point this out they usually let you off. The plan is for a single booking system to be established which will take credit cards. This could be in place as soon as 2016. For the latest information and advice on booking huts go to the Alpine Club website (www.alpine-club.org.uk). If for whatever reason a booking can’t be honoured then simply ring and explain. It’s never a surprise but you should let your hosts know.
Hut life
A typically stunning hut location – the Olpererhütte (Stage 11)
Mountain huts date back to the explosion of Alpine tourism in the late 19th century and were mainly developed by the German/Austrian Alpenverein (Alpine Club). The nearest non-alpine equivalent is a youth hostel. There are hundreds of them scattered across the Alps and, typically built before the emergence of town planners, they often command a dramatic location. They provide food, beer, accommodation and usually a shower (in limestone areas water is sometimes in short supply). Sleeping accommodation is in open dormitories or smaller rooms although you should expect to share even in the smaller rooms. Huts are a key part of the alpine tradition and come with a number of quirky rules. They are, however, very convivial, never run out of beer and after a good day in the mountains they provide an opportunity for some sleep (depending on your room-mates).
The first hut, the Tutzinger, provides a foretaste of what’s to come. Once you’ve arrived and armed yourself with a beverage it’s time to look at the menu and contemplate hut cuisine. It changes gradually after you cross into Italy but the Tyrolean influences persist for some time. It is not fine dining and is best described as ‘hearty’. Standard fare includes: soups (Suppe) with large dumplings – either Leberknödel (liver dumpling) or Speckknödel (ham dumpling); Gulasch, often served with dumplings (Semmelknödel); spaghetti Bolognese and, of course, large sausages (Bratwurst) served with bread, mustard and sauerkraut. It’s not ideal for vegetarians. In German and Austrian huts the Bergsteigeressen (literally ‘mountain climber’s food’) is usually the lowest cost option on the menu. Consisting of some sort of meat served with pasta, dumplings or potatoes, it is filling and good value. On the German side of the border, the best part of the meal – a major Austrian/German contribution to world welfare – is the desert where the nightly choice between wonderful Apfelstrudel (apple pastry) or Kaiserschmarrn, (a shredded pancake favoured by Emperor Franz Joseph) is a regular challenge.
Kaiserschmarrn
The main dormitory in the Tutzinger consists of two-storey platforms each populated, cheek by jowl, with lines of mattresses. Unlike most UK youth hostels, dormitories are not single sex. Bedding is provided but guests are expected to bring their own sheet sleeping bags (Hütten Sac) – some people also bring their own sleeping bags although the rooms can be very warm. Like most huts there is a drying room and a boot room. Hut etiquette includes not wearing outdoor shoes indoors and walking poles are left in the boot room.
Lights are turned out at 10pm. It’s not worth retiring earlier