Turn left for the GR10, then fork right, turn left, fork right and climb. As the gradient eases, fork right and immediately left up a track (1hr 50min). Right and left forks bring you under powerlines. In bad weather the old GR10 route is preferable following the track traversing S to a 4-way junction. Take the right-hand of the two left turns and climb to rejoin the GR10 at Col de Poiriers (Pitara).
The GR10 goes left and immediately right to follow a path, which climbs to the right of the powerlines before reaching a viewpoint, with picnic table, under the powerlines at the foot of the rocky NW ridge of Xoldokogaina. After crossing the ridge fork right, right again and then turn right to regain the ridge above the crags. Follow the path easily up to the monument on the summit of Xoldokogaina (2hr 55min, 486m).
Descend roughly S to the Col d’Osin, veering left along a better track to the Col des Poiriers, which has good dry campsites and an ancient tumulus (3hr 15min, 316m). Follow the path, roughly SE, which climbs into the forest and reaches Col des Joncs (419m). Veer left up the ridge, fork right then turn sharp left back onto the ridge and turn right up the ridge.
The remains of an old hill fort, Redoute de la Baïonette, are worth visiting in good weather. They are reached by taking a sharp right turn onto the ridge and then following a good path northeast to the summit of Mandale. The remains are found at borderstone 9. After borderstone 10 veer slightly left to rejoin the GR10 for the descent to the Col d’Ibardin.
A stream below Col d’Ibardin
The GR10 contours the N slopes of Mandale (574m). The mountain ahead with the communications mast is la Rhune (905m). Eventually, at a switchback, turn right down a small path to reach Elizalde Restaurante at the Col d’Ibardin (4hr 5min).
The Col d’Ibardin has a multitude of bar-restaurants and supermarkets offering food and alcohol at Spanish prices. The Elizalde Restaurante offers accommodation. There are public toilets with water at the garage with a tourist office across the road.
Follow the road, which is the border between France and Spain, down to the actual col (317m). Turn left at the roundabout, down the D404. You soon fork right up a path, the Sentier des Mulets, turning right just before a gate and climbing steeply before veering right and turning left to descend on an increasingly good track to a barrier. Fork right along a path and turn right just before returning to the D404 (4hr 45min). Descend through woods to the left of a stream and eventually, just after a log bridge, turn right across the stream and follow another stream gently uphill. Stay on the right-hand side of the stream at a log bridge. You are on a Roman road originally built to serve the mining industry. Enter Spain at borderstone 18 to arrive at Venta Inzola (5hr 15min, 115m) which is a bar-restaurant.
Cross the stream immediately N of the Venta and follow the path as it climbs through the woods back into France to reach a complex junction at the Col du Grand Escarga (Deskargahandiko Lepoa) (5hr 35min, 273m). This col provides the last obvious campsites before Olhette. Follow the right-hand of the two paths, which goes straight on, veering left as it descends gently before forking left on a smaller path. After another left fork you arrive at the roadhead at Olhette (6hr 5min, 65m).
Olhette is a hamlet with two gîtes d’étape and one hotel. Gîte d’étape Manttu-Baïta is at the roadhead and the hotel and the Gîte d’étape Trapero Baïta are on the ‘main’ road about 500m further N. There is a waterpoint at the Gîte d’étape Manttu-Baïta.
FACILITIES FOR STAGE 1
Hendaye
Hendaye tourist office, east of the old casino: tel 05 59 20 00 34, www.hendaye-tourisme.fr
Camping des Deux Jumeaux, along the coast road near the east end of Hendaye-Plage: tel 05 59 20 01 65, www.camping-des-2Jumeaux.com
Selected accommodation close to the railway station:
Gîte du Littoral Côte Basque (gîte d’étape): tel 06 30 66 29 95
Hôtel de la Gare: tel 05 59 20 81 90, http://saintmartinmaite.pagesperso-orange.fr
Biriatou
Hôtel-restaurant les Jardins de Bakea: tel 05 59 20 02 01, www.bakea.fr
Auberge Hiribarren is a chambres d’hôtes with bar-restaurant: tel 05 59 20 61 83, www.auberge-hiribarren.com
Col d’Ibardin
Elizalde Restaurante offers accommodation: tel 0948 631 024 (Spanish)
Olhette
Gîte d’étape Manttu-Baïta has gîte d’étape and chambres d’hôtes accommodation. Tel: 05 59 54 46 72 or 06 20 43 49 25, www.chambre-d-hote-cote-basque-manttu.fr
Gîte d’étape Trapero Baïta offers accommodation, meals, a swimming pool and possibly camping in the garden. English spoken: tel 05 59 54 42 59, 06 66 08 56 95, [email protected], www.facebook.com/Chambres-dhôtes-trapero-baîta-114558492050996
Hôtel-restaurant Trabenia: tel 05 59 54 01 91, www.hotel-trabenia.com
STAGE 2
Olhette to Ainhoa
| Start | Olhette |
| Distance | 21km |
| Total ascent | 700m |
| Total descent | 700m |
| Time | 5hr 25min |
| High point | Col des Trois Fontaines (563m) |
The stage starts with an easy climb to the Col des Trois Fontaines (Errepausuko Lepoa) from where it would be possible to climb la Rhune (905m), with its communication masts and station. There is too much road walking after Sare. The profile may look flat, but it is actually a succession of small ups and downs; don’t expect flat walking in the Basque Country!
From Olhette return to the roadhead, cross the stream, pass through the car park and take the path from the far left corner. You soon fork left, ignore turns to left and right, fork left again and turn right along a better track. Ignore assorted small paths and climb steadily until you fork left up a faint path immediately below the Col des Trois Fontaines.
The summit of la Rhune can be reached by following the main path, which veers right to gain the west ridge of la Rhune. Climb to the top by following the green arrows on a popular path. There are communications masts, a railway station, several bar-restaurants and tourist shops marring the summit. It will take 1½ hours to get there and back.
The GR10 continues to the col (1hr 30min, 563m). There is a small bothy, Arranoxola, about 300m N of the col, which was in excellent condition in 2015.
On the descent you cross a number of streams of dubious quality. Head E along the right-hand path veering right, roughly SE, to reach the rack railway which takes tourists from the Col de St-Ignace (NW of Sare) to the summit of la Rhune. Cross the railway track and follow the path, which descends gently to the right of the track. Turn sharp right at the second group of ruined farm buildings, then left after crossing a small stream. The track gradually improves