Tourism
As the boatbuilding, limestone and slate industries declined, partly as a result of the arrival of the railway, it was the railway itself that prompted the growth of seaside resorts. Tourism remains a vital part of the economy of the area, based on its proximity to Snowdonia, on attractions such as the narrow gauge railways and on the magnificent coast.
A plaque near the Urdd Centre marks the official opening of the Ceredigion Coast Path (Day 13)
Walking the Ceredigion and Snowdonia Coast Paths
How long will it take?
Strong walkers could complete the full walk in just less than two weeks, averaging 22km (14 miles) a day. This would leave little time to wander through some of the settlements or visit the attractions along the way. Averaging about 16km (10 miles) a day, the walk would take you 15 days. It is also worth considering building in ‘rest days’ in order to visit, say, Harlech Castle, or ride one or more of the narrow gauge railways (see Visitor attractions, below). With conveniently spaced settlements, good links to public transport and available accommodation, the path could easily be broken down into shorter sections, giving time to explore and enjoy the scenery and the wildlife. For this you might need to allow about three weeks, possibly split between more than one holiday. It would also be perfectly possible to base yourself in one place for a few days and use public transport to reach the start of, and to return from, each day’s walk (see Appendix A and Appendix B).
How strenuous is it?
It is all too easy to underestimate the amount of climbing involved in much of the coastal walking in the British Isles. While long stretches of the Snowdonia Coast Path (being alongside saltmarshes or along sandy beaches) enable a fast pace, there are also some big ascents, especially between Maentwrog and Llandecwyn and on the routes out of Fairbourne and Llwyngwril, and also on the hill alternative between Tal-y-bont and Barmouth (Day 4).
The Ceredigion Coast Path is a surprisingly challenging walk overall, with many ups and downs and some big days, requiring a good level of fitness.
Walkers on one of the steep slopes north of Llanrhystud (Day 10)
Alternative routes: high tide routes and other options
At Borth and at New Quay it is possible to follow the beach at low or falling tide, and there are official alternative routes for when the tide is high. Between Cwmtydu and Ynys Lochtyn (Day 13) there is an official inland alternative for those who wish to avoid the exposed coastal path.
The beach crossing of the Afon Cledan near Llansantffraid on Day 11 can be difficult when the river is in spate: a short inland detour is available.
Between Tal-y-bont and Barmouth the official Wales Coast Path at present is actually along the main A496 for 4km (2½ miles), which is highly unsatisfactory. This guide gives an unofficial beach alternative (low tide only) and an unofficial and highly recommended hill alternative. For times of low tides useful websites are www.bbc.co.uk/weather/coast_and_sea and www.tidetimes.org.uk.
Other suggested alternatives, where the official route is unsatisfactory, are between Minffordd and Penrhyndeudraeth, south of Maentwrog, at Harlech, at Tre’r-ddôl, near Tywyn and at Machynlleth. A short off-route detour is also suggested at Furnace.
Walking with dogs
The path passes from time to time through areas with livestock, through areas important for wildlife and close to cliff edges, so if you must take a dog with you it must be kept under close control.
Allt-wen from Aberystwyth promenade (Day 9)
When to go
Given the unpredictability of the British weather these days, there is no guarantee that you will enjoy more favourable conditions at certain times of the year, although on average the months of April to July are the driest (or should that be least wet?). Often, however, the coastal strip will be pleasant while the weather just inland is poor. From spring into summer, when the wildflowers are at their best, is also a good time to be walking the path. Some people may prefer early autumn, when the trees are just starting to turn. And while winter is unlikely to be a good time to be walking the whole path, a short section on a couple of well-chosen calm days would be rewarding if you are especially interested in the wintering birdlife on the marshes and in the estuaries.
In August – the high season for holidaymakers – accommodation in the main resorts can get booked up, so if this is your chosen time to walk the coast path it would be wise to book your accommodation well in advance.
Signposting and waymarking
The Wales Coast Path symbol is used between Porthmadog and Borth, while on the Ceredigion Coast Path the symbol generally used shows an outline of the headland of Ynys Lochtyn. On the whole the waymarking is good, but not foolproof; on complicated sections follow the route directions and the sketch maps closely.
(left) The buzzard is the symbol for the Ardudwy Way (Day 4; hill alternative); (upper right) A Ceredigion Coast Path waymarker; (lower right) A Wales Coast Path waymarker
Safety
Coastal walking is a great experience, but be alert to the dangers. Coastal conditions can be highly variable and can change quickly. Take extra care in high winds and do not venture to the cliff edge. Remember the coast can be subject to erosion and cliff falls. Follow any diversions in place. Check tide times in advance where the walk goes along beaches that are covered at high tide; use the alternative routes as necessary and note any possible escape routes. In an emergency call 999. Once connected to the emergency operator, explain the situation so that the appropriate service (Coastguard, Ambulance or Police) can be alerted, but be aware that mobile phone coverage is patchy.
Maps
The following OS maps cover the route in this guide:
Landranger: 124 (Porthmadog and Dolgellau); 135 (Aberystwyth and Machynlleth); 145 (Cardigan/Aberteifi and Mynydd Preseli); 146 (Lampeter and Llandovery/Llanbedr Pont Steffan a Llanymddyfri)
Explorer: OL18 (Harlech, Porthmadog and Bala); OL23 (Cadair Idris and Bala Lake); 198 (Cardigan and New Quay); 199 (Lampeter); 213 (Aberystwyth and Cwm Rheidol)
The extracts from the Landranger maps in this guide show the terrain immediately adjacent to the path. For the wider context the relevant Explorer maps are highly recommended.
The sketch maps, at a scale of approximately 1:25,000, show complicated sections of the path in greater detail.
For a short time the path follows the pebble beach south of Llanrhystud (Day 11)
Getting there
By train there are reasonable services from London Euston via Birmingham; from Birmingham itself; from Manchester via Shrewsbury and from the north of England and Scotland via Wolverhampton. All these trains go via Machynlleth, where the train divides – one part going on to Porthmadog (then Pwllheli), the other to Aberystwyth.
By coach there are routes from London, Birmingham, Manchester and Glasgow to Pwllheli for onward trains to Porthmadog, and a long-distance bus links Cardiff with Aberystwyth via Aberaeron.
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