Access
La Chapelle-d’Abondance is on the D22, between Thonon-les-Bains and Monthey (in Switzerland). The car park, which is at the western end of the village beneath an old quarry, is indicated by a sign with a large white outline of a climber.
STAGE A
Tronçon du Cabri
| Length | 350m |
| Ascent/Descent | 75m |
| Route grading | technical grade: 2; exposure: 2; seriousness: A |
| Time | 2hrs (approach: 15mins; route: 1hr 15mins; return: 30mins) |
| Technical notes | escape points (within stage): 0 |
Approach
A more-or-less level path (Sentier du Menhir) leads through woodland in a westerly direction to the foot of the bluffs on your right.
Route
Initially, the route gains 20m in height as it climbs around the toe of the bluffs. Once the southeast face is reached, continue with a gently rising traverse until an outside corner is reached. Exposure along this section is somewhat mitigated by the treetops just below you. Turn the corner and traverse for a few metres to a short balance beam, the Pont du Goleron, using large pockets in the rock for the hands. This is one of the few places along the entire route to use rock handholds, with most progress being aided by abundant stemples.
Beyond the beam, a mildly strenuous climb of a couple of metres, followed by more traversing, leads to a shallow bay where a rest can be taken. The climbing traverse continues more steeply with a few brief and mildly strenuous moves to reach a second shallow bay. From here, cross a 10m-wide blank wall on stemples with plenty of exposure and some effort required. After a little more traversing, Stage A ends at a third shallow bay. There is an escape path on the left.
Crossing the Pont du Goleron
STAGE B
Tronçon du Chamois/Tronçon du Bouquetin
| Length | 550m |
| Ascent/Descent | 150m (225m, if combined with Stage A) |
| Route grading | technical grade: 4; exposure: 3; seriousness A |
| Time | 3hrs 15mins (approach: 15mins; route: 2hrs 25mins (both stages combined); return: 35mins) |
| Technical notes | escape points (within stage): 2 |
Route
To continue, edge out onto an exposed position on a blank wall. This is similar in nature to the one crossed near the end of the first stage. More blank walls follow, interspersed with short sections of easier traversing. A broad bay is reached, with a second escape path climbing to the left. Cross the bay on an easy path, and arrive at the Traverse de Coucou. This crosses an impressively smooth rockface for 25m utilising a small horizontal weakness in the rock. Some of the foot placements are hidden and fairly small, and the traverse is likely to leave you with aching arms.
The strenuous Traverse de Coucou
Climb up around a narrow buttress to reach a ledge, which is followed without any difficulties until arriving at a large tree. This spot (Le Jardin de Miolene) is one of the few places on the route with shade. From here, the route gains 65 vertical metres up a series of steep climbs and traverses (La Para Nera). This ascent is tiring but contains no noticeably strenuous moves. At the top a narrow ledge passes an escape path on the left and leads to the Traversée des Poupées. This takes a gradually rising line across a series of vegetated ledges and bare slabs until arriving at a steep climb of 15m. The final 5m of the climb ascend an open corner and are fairly tough.
Above this, another narrow ledge, where a rest can be had, leads to the Mur du Saix Rouge. This is climbed for 70 vertical metres and contains a few small passages that are slightly overhanging. Depending on your height, some moves may be fairly awkward due to the placement of the rungs and you may need to make use of a number of small hand and rock foot placements. At the top of the climb, the cable continues along much easier ground for a further few minutes before terminating.
Return
Descend carefully until the start of the route is reached and return along the approach path.
DENT D’OCHE OPTION
Although it cannot really be considered to be a via ferrata, the path traversing the nearby Dent d’Oche (2221m) is well worth an ascent for anyone in the area. The route contains several exposed sections of scrambling, which are protected by cable. It is situated a little to the north of the Abondance Valley and is best accessed from the small village of Bernex, which can be reached from Évian-les-Bains. There is a staffed refuge on the summit of the peak, from which there are exceptional views, taking in the entire sweep of Lake Geneva. The ascent climbs for 1010m from Parking La Fétiuère (above Bernex); allow 5–7hrs for the round-trip.
ROUTE 4
Via Ferrata du Rocher de la Chaux
| Location | St-Jean-d’Aulps, Haute-Savoie (GPS: Lat. 46º 14’ 36.65” N Long. 6º 38’ 51.63" E) |
| Length | 700m |
| Ascent/Descent | 795m |
| Route grading | technical grade: 3–5; exposure: 5; seriousness: A (all stages) |
| Total time | 5hrs 25mins (if all stages climbed consecutively) |
| Highest altitude | 1173m |
| Map | 3528ET |
| Technical notes | total escape points: 0 |
| When to visit | May to October |
| Useful website | www.valleedaulps.com |
This new route, opened in the summer of 2011, scales a feature known locally as the Tete de l’Éléphant. Driving north from Morzine, the reason for the name soon becomes apparent, as an approximation of an elephant’s head can clearly be seen on the Rocher de la Chaux, to the northwest of St-Jean-d’Aulps.
There are two routes on the rock, with the easier one ascending the ‘trunk’ of the elephant and the harder route its ‘face’, as well as an easier third option nearby. Both routes are athletic, sustained and exceptionally airy, with the exposure being particularly ‘immediate’ for most of their length. There are few good places to take a break on either route, so a rest lanyard is essential. The second route is considerably more arduous and sustained than the first, although the most difficult passages are fairly well spaced apart. As such, the route would be a good option to try before tackling one of the most difficult via ferratas in the book, such as the Grotte à Carret (Route 16, Stage B) or Grand Dièdre (Route 40, Stage B). An easier third option, the Mini Via Ferrata, could be completed as a warm-up for the other routes, or by children and beginners who want to dip their toes in the water. The routes on the Rocher de la Chaux are closed each year from 15 April to 15 May to protect the kidding of chamois.
Access
Driving south on the D902 from Thonon-les-Bains, turn left onto the D293 just before St-Jean-d’Aulps. Follow this for 200m and park next to a cemetery and information panel for the via ferrata.
STAGE A
La Tête de l’Éléphant
| Length | 300m |
| Ascent/Descent | 375m |
| Route grading | technical grade: 3; exposure: 5; seriousness
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