Except around Kinloch on Rum there is precious little forestry in the Small Isles, Coll and Tiree. Rum is also the only island with a deer population and, consequently, deerstalking. The stalking season runs from mid-August to mid-February: if you plan to walk on the island during this period it is advisable to contact the Head Stalker, Derek Thomson, on 01687 462030 or 07768 249833. Between March and May it is important to avoid disturbing sheep during lambing. Avoiding interference with other farming and crofting practices is usually accomplished with minimal inconvenience.
Wild camping is permitted but please check the Outdoor Access Code for information about your rights and responsibilities (www.outdooraccess-scotland.com). For more on camping on Rum see Appendix B.
Looking down to Harris Bay from the summit of Barkeval (Walk 1)
Safety and emergencies
In fine weather the Inner Hebrides can seem like an earthly paradise; however the onset of high winds and driving rain can rapidly make the place feel quite hellish, especially if you are exposed to the elements. It is essential that you are properly equipped and are able to navigate proficiently in poor visibility. Check the weather forecast before setting out and allow yourself plenty of time to complete your day’s itinerary during daylight. Always let someone know your intended route and estimated time of completion.
Carry a first aid kit, survival blanket, mobile phone and plenty of food. Wear at least one item of high-visibility clothing. A whistle and/or torch are important for attracting attention in case of injury. Six blasts on the whistle or six torch flashes should be repeated every minute. In case of injury or other incident, try to stay calm and assess your situation. If anyone is injured remember ABC – airway, breathing, circulation (signs of life, blood loss). Make any casualties warm and comfortable and place any unconscious casualties in the recovery position.
Try to ascertain your exact position on the map and consider your options for walking to safety, finding shelter, staying put or seeking help. (Remember that it may take an emergency team some hours to reach you, especially in poor conditions in a remote area.) If you decide to call for help, phone 999 and ask for the Police and Mountain Rescue. Be ready to give the location of the incident (grid references, map sheet number, name of the area and description of the terrain), number and names of people in the party and their condition, any injuries and names of casualties. Be prepared to supply the numbers of any phones carried by the party, and describe the nature and time of the incident, weather conditions including wind speed and visibility at the incident site, equipment at the site, including warm clothing and shelter, distinguishing features and markers at the site, and the location from which you are phoning if different from the incident site.
Heading east along the Kinloch Glen track (Walk 7)
Some of the walks described here are challenging and best not attempted on your own. Likewise, these routes should only be undertaken by fit and experienced walkers and are not suitable for the very elderly, very young or anyone carrying an injury. Only fit, properly equipped, experienced hillwalkers with good navigation skills should attempt a round of the Rum Cuillin – and then only in good conditions. The weather can change very rapidly in this maritime mountain environment. The terrain is difficult in places and visibility can be lost with little warning.
After heavy rain or snowfall many burns and rivers run very high, with a terrific volume of fast-moving water. This is especially the case on mountainous Rum. Do not attempt to cross rivers in spate – if you are swept away your chances of survival are very small. If you're successful in crossing one river in such conditions you may come up against an impassable torrent further on; if you then attempt to recross the river you previously crossed, you may find that it is running higher and faster than before.
What to take
OS Explorer 1:25,000 maps are indispensable (a waterproof map case is advisable), as is a compass. A ‘wristwatch’ altimeter is also very useful. A robust rucksack with adequate capacity and a comfortable harness is indispensable, as is a waterproof pack liner. For day walks, a 30+ litre pack should be sufficient; for longer trips, when you are carrying camping gear and several days’ food, a 60+ litre pack may be required. Effective waterproofs are essential when undertaking a walk of any length in the Hebrides. Weather can change quickly on the islands and doesn’t always obey the forecasts.
Campfire at Harris Bay (Walk 3 Day 2, Walk 7)
Lightweight, ‘wickable’, quick-drying clothing is a must when walking the often strenuous routes in this guide. Carry adequate warm clothing: extra layers are useful when you take breaks. The nature of much of the terrain – on Rum, Eigg and Canna especially – requires robust walking boots with ankle support and a Vibram sole. On Coll, Tiree and Muck, you may find that good quality Vibram-soled walking ‘trainers’ are sufficient. It is difficult to keep your feet dry at the best of times when walking on the islands, so Gore-Tex-lined or well-waxed boots are essential.
Gaiters are indispensable on terrain that can be very boggy in places. Telescopic walking poles are very useful, especially when carrying a heavy pack on multi-day walks. A warm hat and gloves should find a place in your rucksack, even in summer. Sun cream, a sun hat and sunglasses should also be carried from spring through to autumn. Always carry plenty of food, including high-energy snacks, and plenty of water. With the exceptions of Tiree and Muck, there are frequent opportunities to fill up from the islands’ many burns. The water is generally safe to drink; however, take water-purifying tablets if you are worried about contamination.
A basic medical kit and a survival bag should always be carried and a mobile phone is useful in case of misadventure. A head torch is invaluable if you are benighted and can help to attract attention in an emergency; carrying a whistle is useful for the same purpose. From late spring until late autumn it is worth carrying some serious insect repellent (some swear by Avon ‘Skin So Soft’) and a midge/mosquito hat – or net to place over a hat – are useful lines of defence against Culicoides impunctatus. The O'Tom tick removing fork is the best tool for this delicate job. Lightweight binoculars are worth their weight for admiring the islands’ splendid wildlife.
Using this guide
The routes are grouped by island into six sections, each preceded by an overview map. Each section has an introduction covering the local geology, history, wildlife, transport and amenities, including information on the local access situation and estate contacts.
Route descriptions
Each route in this guide is described step by step and is illustrated with extracts from the 1:50,000 OS maps. For each one the route distance, rough timing and the OS map you will need to carry with you are listed, alongside the grid reference for your start point. Altitudes are given in metres, abbreviated to m, for example ‘750m'. Distances along the ground are given in metres, fully spelled out, for example ‘100 metres'.
In the appendices at the end of the book are a route summary table, details of accommodation island by island, and suggestions for further reading.
RUM
Rùm
Heading east to Glen Shellesder