of the boundary between Gumma and Nagano prefectures, which bifurcates the shrine. We emptied our pockets of small change to throw into the offering box in front. We bowed and clapped two times to call the gods. But still no priest appeared. We finally located him at his house below the shrine. He invited us in and gestured that I place the good luck amulets on a footed lacquer tray. I did, and he instructed us to bow two times while he chanted. Then two claps. Or was it three? Deep in prayer, he waved his long wand of white paper streamers over the waiting Otafuku amulets and over us. He blessed us with all his power of prayer. I felt a shiver pass through me as gods and man were connected. Here at the beginning of the 21st century was a priest devoutly following customs that reached into ancient legend. And here, once again, was Otafuku at the center of things, shining her light, sharing her blessing.
