Dried rice paper wrappers are paper thin wrappers made from a batter of rice flour, water and salt, then steamed and dried in the sun on bamboo racks, which leaves a cross-hatch imprint on them. Used to wrap a wide variety of spring rolls, dried rice paper wrappers must be moistened to soften them before using. Available in many Asian food markets, they will keep for many months if stored in a cool dark place.
Fish sauce is produced by layering salt with fish or prawns in earthenware vats and allowing it to ferment in the brine solution for about six months. A topquality fish sauce is very expensive, just like a good olive oil or vinegar. Bottles of fish sauce from various countries are available in supermarkets. Look for clear amber-coloured fish sauce, which is an indication of the best flavour and aroma. Fish sauce is used by most Asians for seasoning and marinades, while the more expensive variety is used in soups and as dipping sauces on its own or added with chilli and chopped garlic. Soy sauce with a bit of oyster sauce makes the best substitute.
Galangal can easily be mistaken for young ginger— both are pinkish-cream roots that grow in knobs and put out spiky shoots. This rhizome feels woody and solid, and is firmer and more flavourful compared to ginger. Although galangal looks like ginger, they are not interchangeable. Scrape off the skin using a sharp knife, then chop or slice and use as instructed. As mature galangal is very tough, slice the pieces thinly first before grinding or processing them into a paste with other spices. Substitute young ginger.
Ginger flower is an edible, amazingly perfumed herb with exquisite aromas of floral ginger and lemony rose and a musk-and-strawberry sweetness. This spectacular flower is uncommon in countries outside the tropics. Look for this flower in Asian markets. Choose fresh-looking buds without too much wilting or browning at the edges. If unavailable, substitute a mixture of lemongrass and young ginger slices.
Jicama, also known as bangkuang or yam bean, has a short root and a thin papery skin that can be peeled off easily to reveal a white flesh inside that tastes like a juicy nashi pear. It is often sliced into salads as it remains crunchy without “weeping” when acidic dressings are added and does not discolour when exposed to air. Peel the skin and slice the flesh into large pieces, then slice again diagonally. Depending on the recipe, substitute apple or pear.
Kaffir lime leaves are prized for their distinctive incenselike aroma and sharp citrus oils. They are used in soups and curries of Thai, Malay or Indonesian origin. They are also thinly sliced and used as a garnish. Buy them fresh or frozen or dried—the fresh or frozen leaves are much more fragrant.
Lemongrass is a highly aromatic herb. Use only the inner part of the thick bulb of the stem (the bottom one-third of the stem). Peel off and discard the tough outer leaves to get to the portion, then bruise, slice, chop or grind as directed in the recipe.
Mint, sometimes called Moroccan mint, has darkgreen, crinkly round leaves. Look for fresh leaves on green stems, with strong aromas of mint.
Noodles are a universal favourite in Tropical Asia. Dried rice vermicelli (beehoon or mifen) are very fine rice threads that must be plunged into hot water to soften before use. Rice stick noodles (also known as “river noodles”, kway teow or hofun) are wide, flat rice noodles sold fresh in Asian markets. If not available, use dried rice stick noodles instead.
Palm sugar is distilled from the sap of various palm fruits and varies in colour from golden to dark brown. It is usually sold as a solid block or cylinder. It has a rich flavour similar to dark brown sugar or maple sugar, which make good substitutes.
Tamarind is the fruit of the tamarind tree and grows in a long seed pod. The dried pulp is sold in packets or jars and generally still has some seeds and pod fibres mixed in with the pulp. It is used as a souring agent in many dishes.
Turmeric is similar to ginger but with a bright yellow colour and a more pungent flavour. It has antiseptic and astringent qualities and stains everything permanently, so scrub your knife blade, hands and chopping board immediately after handling. Purchase fresh turmeric root as needed as the flavour fades after a few days. Substitute 1 teaspoon turmeric powder for 2.5 cm (1 in) of the fresh root.
Basic Recipes
Laksa Spice Paste
7-10 red finger-length chillies, deseeded
3 cloves garlic
3 stalks lemongrass, tender inner part of bottom third only, sliced
12-mm (½-in) fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
12-mm (½-in) fresh galangal root, peeled and sliced
½ teaspoon dried prawn paste (belachan), dry-roasted
1 Process all the ingredients, except the dried prawn paste, in a food processor until smooth.
2 Add the dried prawn paste, mix well and set aside.
Makes ½ cup
Preparation time: 5 mins
Lemongrass Paste
Lemongrass is an aromatic herb used for centuries in South-East Asia. It may be sliced very finely as garnish, but in this case, this interesting paste is used for many of my curries or laksa dishes, as it has the freshness of ginger and galangal, and the aroma of kaffir lime.
4 stalks lemongrass, tender inner part of bottom third only, sliced
2.5-cm (1-in) fresh galangal root, peeled and sliced
10 cloves garlic
12-mm (½-in) fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
12 red finger-length chillies, deseeded
1 tablespoon dried prawns, dry-roasted
1 tablespoon oil
2 teaspoons shaved palm sugar or dark brown sugar
4 tablespoons water
1 kaffir lime leaf, cut into thin strips
½ teaspoon salt, or to taste
1 Grind the lemongrass, galangal, garlic, ginger and chillies in a food processor or mortar until fine. Add the dried prawns and grind to a smooth paste.
2 Heat the oil in a frying pan and stir-fry the paste over medium heat until fragrant, 2–3 minutes. Stir in the other ingredients, except the salt, and simmer uncovered for 3–5 minutes, stirring constantly until the mixture thickens.
3 Season with salt to taste and remove from the heat, cool and store refrigerated in a sealed jar.
Makes 1 cup