Lemongrass (serai), also known as citronella, is a lemon-scented stem which grows in clumps and is an important spice in flavoring curries and sauces. Each plant resembles a miniature leek. Use only the thicker bottom one third of the lemongrass stem. Remove and discard the dry outer leaves and use only the tender inner part of the plant. Lemongrass is available fresh, frozen or dried; fresh lemongrass is preferable because of its stronger smell and flavor.
Palm sugar is made from the distilled juice of various palm fruits (especially the coconut and arenga palms). Palm sugar varies in color from gold to dark brown. It has a rich flavor similar to dark brown sugar, molasses or maple syrup, which make good substitutes.
Pandanus leaves, also known as pandan leaves or screwpine leaves, are long thin leaves used to impart a delicate fragrance and sweet, grassy flavor into rice, cakes and desserts. They are also used as wrappers for seasoned morsels, cakes and desserts. Though they can be deep-frozen, always look for fresh leaves at the supermarkets. A few drops of bottled pandan or vanilla essence is a good substitute.
Petai beans (buah petai), also known as parkia beans or stinkbeans, are strong-smelling green beans sold either in the pod (about ten beans to a pod) or ready shelled and usually split in half lengthwise. Believed to be good for the kidneys and liver, petai beans may be eaten raw or cooked.
Potato patties for use in Beef Noodle Soup and Potato Patties (Soto Daging) on page 24: mash 350 g (12 oz) boiled potatoes; add 1 tablespoon deep-fried shallots and ½ teaspoon salt, shape into 8 small patties, dip in beaten egg and pan-fry in oil until golden brown.
Salam leaf (daun salam) is a large, dark green leaf that is added to curries. Rarely encountered outside Indonesia, it has no direct substitute and may be omitted if not available.
Sour carambola fruits (belimbing wuluh) are small pale green acidic fruits grow in clusters on the carambola tree. A relative of the sweeter starfruit, sour carambola fruits are used whole or sliced to give a sour tang to some soups, fish dishes and sambals. Sour grapefruit or tamarind juice can be used as a substitute.
Tamarind (asam Jawa) is a sour fruit that comes in a hard pod shell. Commonly available in the form of pulp, it can be bought fresh or dried. Tamarind juice is one of the major souring agents in most Southeast Asia cooking. To make tamarind juice, mix 1 tablespoon dried tamarind pulp with 2 tablespoons warm water to soften, then mash well and strain to remove any seeds and fibers (see asam gelugor).
Turmeric (kunyit) is a member of the ginger family. This rhizome has a very rich yellow interior (which can stain clothing and plastic utensils) and an emphatic flavor. When fresh it resembles ginger but it is usually sold in yellow powder form. When fresh tumeric is not available, substitute ½ teaspoon turmeric powder for 2 cm (½ in) fresh turmeric. Fresh turmeric leaves are also used in Padang cooking as a herb.
Spicy Potato Crisps
(Keripik Kentang Balado)
Oil for deep-frying
1 kg (2 lbs) potatoes, thinly sliced
1 sprig celery, leaves only, sliced, to serve
Spice Paste
5 to 6 red chilies, sliced
5 shallots
2 tablespoons oil
1 teaspoon sugar
5 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
1 teaspoon salt
1 Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat until hot. Deep-fry the potato slices until crispy and golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove and drain on paper towels. Set aside.
2 To make the Spice Paste, grind the chilies and shallots to a smooth paste in a mortar or blender. Heat the oil in a wok over medium low heat, stir-fry the paste until fragrant, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add the sugar and lime juice, and stir-fry for another 1 to 2 minutes, then add the salt and mix well.
3 Reduce heat to low, add the potato crisps and mix thoroughly until well coated, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and sprinkle with celery leaves before serving.
Serves 4
Preparation time: 20 mins Cooking time: 20 mins
Sambal Eggplant (Taruang Balado)
3 tablespoons oil
750 g (1 ½ lbs) Asian eggplants, halved lengthwise
Sambal Paste
5 red chilies, sliced
5 shallots
2 tablespoons oil
1 large or 2 small tomatoes, deseeded, flesh coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon or lime juice
1 teaspoon salt
1 Make the Sambal Paste first by grinding the chilies and shallots to a smooth paste in a mortar or blender. Heat the oil in a wok or skillet over medium low heat, add the paste and stir-fry for 3 to 5 minutes until fragrant. Add the tomatoes and stir-fry until soft, then season with the lemon or lime juice and salt. If the paste is too thick, dilute with 2 to 3 tablespoons of water. Remove and set aside.
2 Heat the oil in a wok or skillet and fry the eggplants over medium heat until tender, 2 to 3 minutes each, turning to brown both sides. Remove and drain the excess oil.
3 Transfer the eggplants to a serving dish. Spread the Sambal Paste on top and serve hot with steamed rice.
Serves 4
Preparation time: 15 mins Cooking time: 15 mins
Mixed Vegetables in Spicy Coconut Milk
(Gulai Sayur Campur)
250 g (9 oz) lean topside beef
1 liter (4 cups) water
½ teaspoon salt
250 g (9 oz) young jack-fruit, flesh cut into bite-sized pieces
150 g (5 oz) long beans, cut into lengths to yield 2 cups
5 large cabbage leaves, coarsely chopped to yield 2 cups
500 ml (2 cups) thick coconut milk
1 turmeric leaf
3 kaffir lime leaves
1 stalk lemongrass, thick bottom part only, tough outer layers discarded, inner part-bruised
Spice Paste
2 candlenuts, crushed and dry-roasted
2 red