USING THIS GUIDE
The walks in this guidebook are for everyone, from novices to experienced ramblers, although newcomers to walking are advised to develop their abilities and confidence on the shorter walks before progressing onto the more demanding routes. However, none of the walks in this book is technically difficult, and in good weather they pose few navigational problems. Simple skills such as the ability to use a map and compass will help keep you on the right track, and map and compass are essential in poor visibility.
The network of public footpaths and tracks is extensive, and signposts and waymarks are generally well positioned to confirm the route. On the upper moors, and indeed across many of the valley meadows, the actual line of the path is not always distinct, but the way is often discernible along a ‘trod’. Defined as a ‘mark made by treading’, a trod, by its nature, becomes more obvious the more it is walked, and indeed may develop over time as a path. But on the upper slopes it is a less tangible thing, a slight flattening of the grass or reeds punctuated with an occasional boot print. It may differ from a sheep track only in that it has purposeful direction and requires an element of concentration to stay on the right course.
The walks described in detail in this volume range in distance from 3½ to 11½ miles (5.6 to 18.5km), and there are suggestions for devising longer days by combining routes. While the lengthier walks require an appropriate degree of physical fitness, none demand more than an ability to walk. The Dales are hilly rather than mountainous, and with gains in altitude during the walks of between 80m (262ft) and 855m (2805ft), climbs are generally moderate, with any steep sections usually brief. And in any case, the captivating scenery so begs attention that frequent pauses for retrospective admiration are almost mandatory.
Almost all of the walks are circular, many beginning from recognised car parks with a public toilet nearby. However, public transport in the Dales, particularly during the summer months and at weekends, now offers a real alternative for reaching many of the more popular locations, and increases the opportunity for adapting and devising many satisfying ‘one way’ walks around the routes described here.
Yorkshire’s warm hospitality is renowned, and you’ll find welcoming pubs, cafés and tea shops throughout the area, although it is always a good idea to check opening times in advance if you are relying on somewhere for a meal.
Details of the terrain and nature of the walk, together with the local facilities available, are given in the information box at the start of each walk.
PART 1 THE HOWGILL FELLS
Dropping over 200m, Cautley Spout is England's highest waterfall (Walk 6)
WALK 1
Sedbergh and the River Rawthey
| Start | Sedbergh (SD657921) |
| Distance | 5 miles (8km) |
| Height gain | 145m (476ft) |
| Time | 2hr |
| Terrain | Field paths and trods |
| OS map | Explorer OL19 – Howgill Fells & Upper Eden Valley |
| Refreshments | Pubs and cafés in Sedbergh |
| Toilets | Beside car parks |
| Parking | Car parks in Sedbergh (pay and display) |
Above Sedbergh, the narrowing valley of the River Rawthey becomes squeezed between the soaring hills of the Howgills and the lower slopes of Rise Hill and Baugh Fell. This undemanding ramble begins across the lower slopes past the castle that oversaw the town's early development, and returns beside the river by the ruin of a more recent lookout from the 19th century. For a longer day, the route can be linked with Walk 2 to include an exploration of the lower part of the valley.
From the junction by St Andrew’s Church, walk east along Main Street through the centre of town. Meeting Long Lane at the end, go left and immediately left again, beside Westwood Books, up a track signed to Castlehaw. Breaking from the trees above the town, the mound of Castlehaw comes into view across to the right. The access is over a stile as the track shortly curves right.
CASTLEHAW
An early Norman stronghold dating from the end of the 11th century, the castle held a commanding position above the entrance to the Rawthey valley. Exploiting a small outcrop, the steep-sided motte, on which stood a defensible wooden tower, still dominates the site, and would have been further defended by a deep ditch and wooden palisade. The living area lay within the bailey, the lower apron projecting to the west, and contained the lord’s hall as well as quarters for his retainers and dependants. With the consolidation of Norman rule it became redundant, and was never rebuilt in stone as were those further to the north. It was, however, brought back into use during the last war as a lookout for the Royal Observer Corps.
Return to the track and continue to Castlehaw Farm, swinging left in front of the barns and then right across a stream past Howgills Bunk Barn. Through a gate, walk ahead across the fields beyond, contouring above the bottom fence to an isolated barn. Keep going, later crossing a couple of ladder stiles to find the boundary now on your left.
Bounded by the abruptly rising slopes of the Howgills, the views are captivating. Ahead, the great rounded hump of Baugh Fell falls to the foot of Garsdale, while to the right, Frostrow Fells prelude the higher ground of Aye Gill Pike.
Reaching Ghyll Farm, exit through a stable yard and follow its track away to the right. At a fork, just beyond a cattle-grid, bear left into Stone Hill Farm, looking for a small gate in the right corner into a cobbled yard fronting the house. Leave through a field gate at the bottom and walk left at the field edge past the barns. Over a footbridge, continue to the next farm, Hollin Hill.
Overlooking Sedbergh, Winder is the southernmost top of the Howgill Fells
Bear left past the farmhouse and through the yard. In the field beyond, bear right across the hillside to a stile. Over a second stile, keep going, later passing the top end of a truncated wall to find a stile just above a white house. Walk down to emerge beside it onto Buckbank Lane.
Turn right to Buckbank Farm and enter the yard. Go right between the barns and then left beside the silage store to the field. Follow the perimeter down and continue above the wooded ravine of the River Rawthey to meet the main road at Straight Bridge.
The way continues beside the river through a gap stile opposite to the A684 at New Bridge. Over the Rawthey, turn through a kissing-gate and carry on downstream, emerging by another bridge at Millthrop. Cross back to find a gate, just beyond the drive to Millthrop Mill.
Strike out past the mill to enter a small wood above the river. Watch for the waymarked path swinging right between sunken walls, at the end of which, walk forward and take the right-most of the forking paths to a gate at the edge of the trees. Go left and carry on beyond the corner of the wood and the ruin of an octagonal tower.
Known as the Pepper Pot and dating from the end of the 19th century, the tower was a gazebo or summerhouse within the gardens of Akay House. The house was demolished just before the Second World War, but the tower, originally rising to two storeys, was left to crumble in its own good