Backpacker's Britain: Northern Scotland. Graham Uney

Here you pick up the Land-Rover track that you started out along earlier in the day. Turn right and follow this down the glen, heading southwards for the sea at Loch Cheann Chuisil.

      As the track drops down to sea level, bear in mind that you’ll need to cross over the river to the west side at some point. The water here can be difficult to cross in flood, so it might be better to go higher up if there’s been a lot of rain.

      Once on the other side, walk round the coast across rough slopes beneath Sgaladal to cross another burn at Gleann Sgaladail. Continue around the coast to the little cove at Tamana Sear, then around to your overnight campsite at Rubha Garbh.

      Day 2

      Pack up the tent and start off by following the coast round into the bay at Tamana Siar to the west. Continue around the coast to the rocky headland at Aird Dhrolai Geodha, then turn northwards with the coast.

      Keep an eye open for red deer on these slopes. There are good populations of deer all over these hills, and for the most part the stags and hinds will be apart for much of the year. They generally only get together in one big mixed herd during the rutting season in October and November.

      Continue northwards along the coast, with great views out westwards to Eilean Mhealasta.

      A little further north you will reach the road head at Mealasta village. Follow this for a short while, then make your way back to the cliff top. It’s easy walking round the headland of Aird Bhreinis and on to the bay at Camas Islibhig.

      Mhealasta island lies about 750m offshore and is used as grazing land for sheep. As you continue northwards, keep an eye on the shoreline for otters. Although they are not easy to see there is a small population on these coasts. Otters inland on the mainland and in England and Wales are almost always nocturnal, whereas on the coasts of Scotland they tend not to be so choosy. These otters are governed more by the tides, preferring to hunt on a rising tide, whatever the time of day or night. Many people talk about these coastal otters as ‘sea otters’, but although they live and feed in the sea, they are the same species as the otters found inland in Britain, the Eurasian otter, Lutra lutra. There is such a thing as a sea otter, but this is a North American species. Eurasian otters, even those that live in coastal waters, need freshwater to clean their fur in daily.

      During the summer months there will be lots of seabirds in this area. Fulmars, shags, rock doves and kittiwakes nest on the cliffs, while you may also see puffins, guillemots and razorbills. Out at sea occasional pods of pilot whales and sperm whales are seen, although you need a very calm sea to stand any chance of a clear view.

      Walk around the bay and out to the headland of Aird Feinis. Continue along the cliff tops to a descent onto the small but beautiful beach at Traigh Mhangurstadh. Walk up the beach on the right and you’ll pick up a track taking you the short way back up the hill to your car.

WALK 6

      North Harris – Mountains and Moorlands