10 Monte Sibilla Circuit
11 Monte Porche and Palazzo Borghese
12 Nocelleto to Forca di Gualdo
13 Preci and Sant’Eutizio
14 Monte Patino
15 Foce and Lago di Pilato
16 Castelluccio to Lago di Pilato
17 Monte Vettore
18 Monte delle Rose
19 Castelluccio and the Piano Grande
20 The Dogana Loop
21 I Pantani
Italian–English Glossary
INTRODUCTION
Monti Sibillini
Little known to foreign visitors, the Sibillini, in Italy’s central Apennine chain, comprise soaring limestone mountains and awe-inspiring natural landscapes inhabited by wonderful wildlife. Rugged lofty ridges link dizzy peaks above vast bare flanks swept by howling winds. Vast grassy uplands are smothered with vivid wildflowers. In dramatic contrast, worlds below, plunging gorges are run through with deliciously cold streams. The thickly wooded valleys are dotted with utterly charming historic villages, home to herders and woodcutters, hard-working reticent folk with a great sense of hospitality. With a good 50 peaks, many over 2000m, there is plenty of exploratory walking to be done in the Sibillini on the intricate web of pathways and old cart tracks. Thanks to dedicated nature lovers and environmental activists, in 1993 this wonderland finally became the Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini, encompassing 700km2.
Monte Bove Nord, GAS Stage 1
Part of Italy’s backbone, the Monti Sibillini are a narrow line of ridges that act as the watershed between the Adriatic and the Tyrrhenian seas. Straddling the regions of Umbria to the west and Marche to the east they run north–south for almost 40km. Limestone is the main constituent, formed 200 million years ago in a shallow sea and forced skywards. Glaciers later left recognisable traces such as cirques and U-shaped troughs. The stark bareness of these mountains is striking, as few trees exceed the 1500m level.
Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini sign
However, much of this bareness is caused by man as dense forests of beech once cloaked the uplands. These were dramatically cut back over time to create pasture for the armies of sheep – once totalling 400,000 – key to the region’s economy.
A number of important rivers run through the range: the Nera has its source in the heart of the Sibillini and flows out through Umbria, whereas the eastern flanks give rise to the Aso, Tenna, Ambro and Fiastrone which head down to the Adriatic coast.
And the name? Sibillini glides over the tongue. In antiquity Sibyls were well known across the Mediterranean as oracles. And one such magnificent prophetess dwelt in a cavern on what is now known as Monte Sibilla, attended by bevies of gorgeous fairy handmaidens. The stuff of fairy tales. Ephemeral beings are hard to avoid in these mountains, as reflected in the place names, an entertaining mix of sacred and profane: Redeemer Peak (Cima del Redentore) and Holy Valley (Valle Santa) vs Devil’s Point (Pizzo del Diavolo) and Hell Gorge (Gole dell’Infernaccio)!
Walking
The wondrously varied landscapes of the Sibillini make for memorable outdoor holidays at any time of year, and holidaymakers of all grades of walking expertise will find something to get their boots into. There are leisurely strolls across flowered meadows and paths down eerie canyons, dizzy high ridge itineraries and a host of walkers’ peaks. This guide provides a selection of 21 day walks ranging from 1hr 30mins to 6hrs in duration, and covering the unmissable features of this region. In addition, a magnificent 8-day trek circling the Sibillini is given in detail: the GAS – Grande Anello dei Sibillini – is highly recommended and accessible to everyone, as nothing of a mountaineering nature is required. Created by enthusiasts from the Italian Alpine Club in the 1980s, it dips in and out of peaceful out-of-the-way hamlets. The objective was to offer an overall vision of the Sibillini and involve outermost villages, a superb idea. Moreover, it encourages visitors to discover that there is more to the Sibilllini than the hot spots such as Castelluccio and Gole dell’Infern-accio, where visitor numbers are huge at peak times. The GAS lends itself to numerous variations as well as detours to link up with the shorter day walks.
The Piano Grande below Castelluccio (Walk 19)
For Italian readers the landmark work is Monti Sibillini. Parco Nazionale. Le più belle escursioni. (SER/CAI 2004), by pioneers Alberico Alesi and Maurizio Calibani. This is a comprehensive guide to the park’s pathways and environmental concerns, with copious background titbits.
When to Go
Walkers can count on stepping out on Sibillini pathways from spring well into autumn, the drawn-out season being a great bonus for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts. The outermost, lower altitude districts such as those covered by the GAS are often accessible as early as April, though that will depend on how much snow is still lying around from winter as it can obscure important waymarks. The rifugi used on that route are owned by the park authority and are theoretically open from mid-April through to mid-October. The late spring months guarantee amazing spreads of wildflowers. On the other hand, to explore the higher ridges and routes in the heart of the Sibillini it’s best to wait until June for optimum conditions. Midsummer – August, and weekends in particular – tends to be synonymous with overcrowding at key spots such as Castelluccio and Lago di Pilato. Then too, extreme heat may be followed by thunderstorms. On the other hand, in September–October, clear crisp conditions and stable weather generally prevail, brilliant for walking. Daylight lasts until 6pm even as late as the final weeks of October, after which Italy reverts to normal time after a long summer on daylight saving time. Lastly, wintertime can be magical for exploring these mountains with snowshoes or touring skis, perhaps with a local guide.
Pian Piccolo and autumn mist (Walk 20)
Weather Notes
As the 19th-century American poet W.C. Byrant put it so adroitly in his poem To the Apennines: ‘There the winds no barrier know’. Be prepared for amazingly strong one-way winds that come howling in from the west and the Tyrrhenian coast and batter the Sibillini leaving little upright – walkers included – before heading over to the Adriatic coast. These conditions are prohibitive and to embark on ridge routes on such days is not just inadvisable but downright dangerous. A positive legacy of this nuisance is the stunning visibility and long-distance views left in its aftermath. Another meteorological phenomenon not be under-rated is mist and low cloud. This can transform even the easiest trail into a trying exercise in orienteering. What’s more, wet grass can be slippery. The Piano Grande zone is especially prone, though the upside is atmospheric photographs for those who are patient enough.
Handy meteorological websites with forecasts and webcams are www.umbriameteo.com and http://meteo.regione.marche.it/assam.
Access
Air: (See map in prelims.)