• Instructions ∙∙∙ page 95
7 Matching Card & Coin Case
Ideal for a driver’s license and loose change, this case seamlessly matches the backpack in design 6. Because the backpack has a pocket and loop on the exterior, consider attaching the case and a key reel to the loop for quick access.
• Instructions ∙∙∙ page 98
Inside the pack, a pocket is positioned against the back, a perfect spot for valuables and a phone. By placing the rather large pocket towards the upper portion of the backpack, any extra weight from filling the pocket will not seem as heavy.
Basic Piecework Techniques
LESSON 1
Making a Simple Square Quilt Block
Using the “nine patch quilt” method of connecting nine squares, these instructions show you how to sew straight sides together, and cover the fundamentals of hand quilting, including pin basting and using the “backstitch” technique for securing the thread at the beginning and ending of piecework.
★ Refer to page 82 for drafting pattern pieces and marking.
★ For the lesson, colorful thread was used for better visibility. For your actual projects, coordinating thread is recommended. Hues of gray and beige tend to blend in well with most fabric colors.
★ Measurements are given in inches and metrics; the metric measurements are more precise.
1 Trace the pattern piece on the back of fabrics A and B. Add a ⅜ in (1 cm) seam allowance and cut (extra seam allowance will be trimmed later).
2 With right sides together and the markings aligned, insert pin at the corner of the marking from the fabric B side.
3 Hold the two fabrics in your left hand and insert pin along marked line on fabric A, pulling through to the marked line on the fabric B side.
4 Because the corner markings were aligned at the beginning insertion point, the markings on both sides match up perfectly.
5 Repeat above steps on other side.
6 Without knotting the end of the thread, sew one stitch on the line slightly away from the corner marking. Remove pin, and sew another stitch up to the corner.
7 Pull needle, leaving a thread tail about ⅜ in (1 cm) long. Stitch over the two previous “backstitches” to secure.
8 Place needle tip on marked line, and push through with the thimble on your right middle finger. Hold the fabric between your left thumb and index finger.
9 Hold the fabric and pin between left thumb and index. When you lift your left hand, the needle tip protrudes slightly to the back side; when the hand is lowered, the needle tip protrudes to the front side.
10 As you lower the left hand, gently push the needle with your right middle finger. Gather the fabric between your left thumb and index finger to continue pushing the needle through.
11 Repeat steps 9 and 10 continuously all the way to the end of the marking for a straight stitch line. At the end, pull the needle all the way up.
12 Position the needle on the thimble on your right middle finger, and push the needle through the fabric.
13 Firmly hold the pieces where you began stitching, then smooth out any bunching by sandwiching the fabrics between your left fingers and lightly sliding leftwards.
14 Use 2 backstitches as shown in step 6 to finish stitching. Without knotting, leave a thread tail of about ⅜ in (1 cm) and cut.
15 The stitches are on the marking line on the back side (side A) as well. Trim the seam allowance ¼ in (0.6 cm) from the stitch line.
When joining the pieced squares, pay particular attention to lining up the corners neatly. If there is extra fabric bulk or if the stitches are misaligned, the following steps will show you how to use an alternating stitch at the corners (=four stops) to secure them and fix the shifting. Sew up to just before the corner, check to see if the corners are lining up and if so, backstitch and continue stitching (don’t sew through the seam allowance).
About the piecework seam allowance
For this lesson, the fabric pieces are initially drafted with a ⅜ in (1 cm) seam allowance which is then trimmed to ¼ in (0.6 cm) once sewn together. As you become accustomed to piecework, feel free to start with a ¼ in (0.6 cm) seam allowance.
16 To join multiple pieces, repeat steps 2 ~ 15. Position fabrics A and B in a checkered pattern by joining three rows of three squares pieced together.
17 Place two rows right sides together, match up corner markings and baste with pins (①~④ indicates pinning order). Due to the bulk of the extra seam allowances, inserting the pins with the tip facing upward is easier for ③ and ④.