| UK SERIOUSNESS | UK TECHNICAL |
| Easy | – |
| Moderate | – |
| Difficult | 3a |
| Very Difficult | 3a, 3b |
| Hard Very Difficult | 3b, 3c |
| Mild Severe | 3c, 4a |
| Severe | 4a, 4b |
| Hard Severe | 4, 4b, 4c |
| Mild Very Severe | 4b, 4c |
| Very Severe | 4b, 4c, 5a |
| Hard Very Severe | 5a, 5b |
| E1 | 5a, 5b, 5c |
| E2 | 5b, 5c, 6a |
| E3 | 5c, 6a, 6b |
| E4 | 6b, 6c |
| E5 | 6b, 6c |
| E6 | 6c, 7a |
| E7 | 6c, 7a, 7b |
| E8 | 6c, 7a, 7b, 7c |
| E9 | 7a, 7b, 7c, 8a |
| E10 | 7b, 7c, 8a |
| E11 | 7b, 7c, 8a etc |
The left-hand column shows how ‘serious’ a climb is going to be; it can be used as an indicator as to how much protection there is on the route and how sustained it is. This is sometimes known as the ‘adjectival’ grade. The right-hand column shows the technical grade, which indicates the difficulty of the hardest move or sequence of moves. Combining these two together will give a lot of information about a climb. Note that routes below ‘Difficult’ standard, and often those below ‘Severe’ standard, are not often given a technical grading as it is felt that the adjectival grade gives enough information at that level.
As you progress through the grades you will need to know how they fit together. Each of the higher grades, from ‘Severe’ upwards, has a ‘benchmark’ grade. This is a degree of seriousness and technical difficulty that can be seen to be an average given that level of climbing. These benchmarks are given in bold type on the table above.
For instance, Very Severe (VS) 4c is a benchmark grade, where the seriousness and the technical difficulty are what you would expect at that level of climbing. However, there can be considerable variation within this. An example would be a route graded at VS 5a. This means that the technical grade is harder than the benchmark, with the seriousness being a little less than you would normally associate with a 5a route. Thus you would expect the climb to be quite tricky but with good protection. Conversely, a VS 4b route would have no very hard moves, but the seriousness would be as for a route that was trickier. The climb, therefore, would not be too difficult to ascend, but may not have as much protection as you would normally expect at that grade.
‘Pink wall’, VS 5a, Pass of Ballater – steep but well protected
Note
Anyone starting to climb outdoors after a few sessions on a climbing wall will find that the grades feel different to those used in doors. As a general guideline, indoor grades, which are based on French sport grades, tend to be about two steps ‘up’ from the UK outdoor grades. Thus, a climbing wall grade 5 would be about 4a outside.
Where to Start?
As already mentioned, you will probably only start to get an idea of how the grading system works after climbing a few routes. You may find the following useful to get you up and running.
Easy The UK grading system starts here. This level of climb will be one with a great number of large holds, quite possibly set back at an amenable angle. It will present little difficulty to anyone keen to get on with climbing, but will still present the possibility of a fall, so ropework and gear placement skills will be paramount. My daughter seconded her first proper rock climb at the grade of ‘Easy’ when she was four years old. However, that is not to say that the grade is a doddle, and great care should be exercised at all times.
Moderate This is the next grade up, and will be a little trickier. It should present few problems to a keen and sensible group, but may be quite steep, albeit on large holds. A number of classic mountain routes will be at this grade.
Diff and V. Diff The top grades that most people getting into climbing will want to try. They cover a variety of route types – chimneys, slabs, corners and so on – with the route being a bit steeper than for the last two grades, and the holds requiring a little more thought prior to being used.
To recap, I suggest that you start out with the lowest possible grade of climb and see how that feels. You can easily work your way up on to harder levels. It’s best to start with something too easy than too hard. If you have a bad experience early on you could be put off climbing altogether.
Getting to the route can be more exciting than the actual climbing!
2 EQUIPMENT
If you have ever strolled through a climbing shop or looked at sites on the Internet, you will be aware that there is a huge array of tantalising climbing equipment available. The trick is to buy what will be appropriate for the type of climbing you wish to do and avoid the ‘toys’ – those fancy pieces of kit that look great but have no particular use at the crag.
There are important standards for climbing equipment manufacture. The UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme) has had a very sound voluntary code of practice in place for a number of years, and gear meeting their test criteria will bear a UIAA stamp. However, the PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) standards have been a legal requirement for a number of years in Europe. Equipment that satisfies this standard will be marketed with a CE (Conformité Européene) symbol. This shows that it conforms to the relevant sections of the European legislation as far as manufacturing requirements are concerned, and indicates that it can legally be sold in the European member countries.
I have listed below some items of the most important kit, and given a few pointers as to what may be appropriate where. There will inevitably be many factors to consider when buying kit, and your final choice will be largely down to personal preference.
Helmet
This is an essential piece of gear, and should be one of your first purchases. Gone are the days when helmets looked like (and weighed the same as) coal scuttles. Modern helmets are lightweight, strong and comfortable. Take a hat with you when buying a helmet to make sure that it can be adjusted sufficiently to accommodate your hat underneath it during the colder months.
Note
A helmet will not only save you from debris or gear dropped from above, it will also protect your head in the event of a fall. In addition, if you are belaying, it will prevent you from banging your head if you are pulled forward when holding a leader fall. Although a lot of magazines show pictures