Walk 16 – Hollóháza to Füzér
Walk 17 – Rostalló to Mogyoróska
Walk 18 – Telkibánya to Regéc
Walk 19 – Mogyoróska to Boldogkőváralja
The Bakony
Walk 20 – Cuha Valley
Walk 21 – Ördög-árok
The Balaton Uplands
Walk 22 – Kuruc-körút
Walk 23 – Badacsony to Szigliget
Walk 24 – Gyulakeszi to Köveskál
The Buda Hills
The Mecsek
Walk 25 – Magyaregregy to Óbánya
Walk 26 – Óbánya Circuit (via Réka-vár)
Walk 27 – Kisújbánya to Váralja
Walk 28 – Jakab-hegy
The Pilis and Visegrád hills
Walk 29 – Dobogókő Circuit
Walk 30 – Pilisszántó Circuit
Walk 31 – Nagy-Kevély
Walk 32 – Szent László Valley and Visegrád Fortress
The Vértes
Walk 33 – Southern Vértes Escarpment
Walk 34 – Szárliget to Várgesztes
The Hungarian Language and Notes on Pronunciation
Glossary of Useful Words and Phrases
Glossary of Hungarian Topographical Terms
Useful Addresses and Telephone Numbers
INTRODUCTION
When you go out into the big forest
Look not behind you
Lest your heart be heavy
As you set foot in a foreign land.
(Hungarian folk song)
The Highlands of Hungary
Every nation projects an image of its landscape to the outside world. In Hungary it is the Great Plain, and most visitors to Hungary are unaware that large areas of the country are covered in highlands and rolling hills with deep wooded valleys, high karst meadows and rocky viewpoints. A walk along the ridges of the Mátra and the Börzsöny or the limestone outcrops of the Bükk will dispel the myth that Hungary is a flat country. Hungary’s highland chain of humpback mountains, limestone plateaux and buttes was formed by a combination of volcanic activity and the raising of tropical seabed sediments. There are about 13 000km (8025 miles) of tracks and trails in the hills. For centuries they have been used by medieval miners, Turkish janissaries (soldiers), pillaging Hussites, herders, beekeepers, charcoal-burners and foundry workers. These ancient highways are now a network of walking paths with a system of waymarks first set up in the nineteenth century.
How the Guide is Organised
This introductory chapter provides practical information about getting to Hungary and what to do on arrival. There is advice on the public transport network, accommodation, maps, the waymarking system and access. Finally, there are introductions to the natural, social and walking history of the hills.
The routes are set out in the guide by region. For simplicity’s sake the highland areas of Hungary are divided into two main regions: Northern Hungary (north and east of the Danube) including the Aggtelek karst, Börzsöny, Mátra, Bükk and Zemplén; and Transdanubia (west of the Danube) including the Bakony, Balaton Uplands, Buda Hills, Mecsek, Pilis and Vértes. The summary map of Hungary shows the approximate position of each region.
All the major highland groups of Hungary are described and each region has an introduction including a brief description of the hills and their position, regional history, useful information about how to get there, and points of interest on or near the walks. Individual route instructions provide a short facts section: a summary of the route; walking distance; which map to buy; local public transport; refreshment stops if any; and a brief description of the type of walking to be expected. Distances are initially calculated in kilometres. Miles are given in brackets with the conversion roughly rounded to the nearest half mile. Alternative routes, diversions and quick escapes are clearly demarcated from the main description. Timings are not given as experience suggests that they depend on the fitness of the walker. The walks are not aimed at the incredibly fit, and even the longest route should take no longer than a day at moderate speed. Accompanying the route information is a route map. Every walk stands alone but a few can be linked up to lengthen the route. Hungary’s rich and complex history ensures that the walking passes many interesting features from fortress ruins to beehive stones. Points of interest listed in the introduction to each regional section are highlighted in bold in the main text.
Finally, the appendices supply an introduction to the Hungarian language – a list of simple words and phrases to help the English speaker get by in rural Hungary; a glossary to aid Hungarian walking map interpretation; and a list of useful addresses.
Getting to Hungary
Visas
British visitors to Hungary require a valid passport with at least six months before expiry. Nationals of selected European countries can enter with an identity card – check with the Hungarian embassy for an up-to-date list. Citizens of the European Union do not require a visa for stays of up to six months but citizens of the USA, Canada, South Africa and New Zealand can only stay up to 90 days without an extension. Hungarian border guards are generally not difficult to deal with if you fulfil the above criteria but expect them to be suspicious if you cross the border on foot carrying a backpack. Visa requirements change from time to time – always check the latest position with the Hungarian embassy before making travel arrangements.
Travelling to Hungary
The Hungarian national airline is MALÉV but British Airways, KLM, Alitalia and Delta have regular flights to Hungary although this list is not exhaustive. Flights arrive at Budapest Ferihegy international airport. Rail travel across Western Europe can be as expensive as flying, but students and travellers under 26 might consider a European rail pass also valid for travel within Hungary. The over-26 rail pass can be expensive if coming from as far as the UK, Ireland or Scandinavia as the journey to Budapest crosses several zones. Travelling around Hungary by train is so cheap it is probably not worth the outlay. Eurolines runs regular coach services from all over Europe to Budapest, although the journey takes 25 hours from London. If travelling from Western Europe by car the main entry point is through Austria at the busy Hegyeshalom border checkpoint, but expect delays during holiday periods. Hungary’s major highway, the M1, starts from here and it is necessary to pay a toll to use it. (See Getting Around Hungary below for an explanation of the system.) If planning a more circuitous route into Hungary – via Slovakia, for example – check with the Hungarian embassy first, as some of these border crossings are for Slovakian and Hungarian citizens only.