The River Kennet is quite close at times, on the right, as the canal approaches a minor road at Dunmill Bridge (82); this is the last time that we see the River Kennet – the canal now follows the River Dun towards Crofton. A short way to the left along the road is a car park (SU 351 681). Some 100 metres to the right, past a pillbox, is the picturesque Denford Mill, once used as a fulling mill, where rough woven cloth was cleaned and thickened (now a private house).
Cross over the canal via the bridge and continue along the south side past Dunmill Lock (75); up to the left are two World War II pillboxes and to the right, across the canal, is the 18th-century Dun Mill; the first mention of a mill here was in the early 1400s.
Across the canal, near Hungerford, stands 18th-century Dun Mill
At the next bridge (83), a track on the left leads to the railway station (100 metres). The route keeps ahead to reach the old wharf just after passing under the A338 (bridge 84) in Hungerford; for the main street, turn left.
HUNGERFORD
The market town of Hungerford, the name of which is derived from a Saxon word meaning ‘hanging wood ford’, lies close to the western edge of Berkshire. The town is the only place in the country that still holds the Hocktide Festival, which relates to the rights of the commoners; the highlight is Tutti Day (second Tuesday after Easter), when the Hocktide Court is held and the Tutti Men visit every house with common rights. The present St Lawrence’s Church (passed in Stage 3), built from Bath stone transported along the canal, dates from 1816; inside is the much mutilated effigy of Sir Robert de Hungerford (d.1352).
About 200 metres north along the A338, at the junction with the A4, is the Bear Hotel. It was here, in 1688 during the ‘Glorious Revolution’, that William of Orange stayed on his way from Devon to London, having been invited to ‘invade’ England by Protestant nobles who were disenchanted with the rule of the Catholic King James II. Days later, James II fled to France, opening the way for William to rule jointly as William III with Mary II; a plaque on the wall commemorates the historic event.
STAGE 3
Hungerford to Pewsey Wharf
| Start | Hungerford A338 bridge (SU 338 687) |
| Finish | Pewsey Wharf (SU 157 610) |
| Distance | 22.8km (14¼ miles); cumulative 68.4km (42½ miles) |
| Total ascent | 150m |
| Time | 6hr |
| Map | OS Explorer 157 and 158; Heron Maps: Kennet & Avon Canal |
| Refreshments | Hungerford, Froxfield, Great Bedwyn, Crofton, Wilton, Stibb Green, Wootton Rivers, Easton Royal, Pewsey Wharf, Pewsey |
| Public transport | Railway stations at Hungerford, Great Bedwyn, Pewsey; bus services at Hungerford, Froxfield, Great Bedwyn, Pewsey Wharf, Pewsey |
| Accommodation | Hungerford, Froxfield, Crofton, Wolfhall, Wootton Rivers, Easton Royal, Pewsey |
| Splitting the stage | The stage may be split after 7.9km (5 miles) at Great Bedwyn (SU 280 644), where there is a railway station and parking. |
Stage 3 leaves behind West Berkshire and heads into Wiltshire. For most of this section, as in the previous two stages, the canal is followed by the railway, which opened in 1862 and now forms the line from London to the south-west. After passing through historic Great Bedwyn, the canal arrives at Crofton Pumping Station and Beam Engines, home to the oldest working steam-driven beam engine in the world. The canal then heads for the Vale of Pewsey, described by William Cobbett in his Rural Rides (where it is known as ‘Valley of Avon’ – this is where the Hampshire River Avon rises) as his ‘land of promise’ and ‘a most beautiful sight’.
From Hungerford (see Stage 2), the towpath follows the south (left) side of the canal for 7.9km to Great Bedwyn, passing Hungerford Lock (74) and then St Lawrence’s Church beside the swing bridge (85). Continue straight on along the towpath, passing through gates, to enter a field that forms part of Freeman’s Marsh, then keep ahead to reach Hungerford Marsh Lock (73) with its central swing bridge (86).
Since the 14th century, registered commoners have had the right to fish and graze animals on Freeman’s Marsh and these rights are still exercised under the rules of the Hocktide Court. More importantly, the marsh supports a rich wildlife: marsh marigolds and southern marsh orchids grow in the wet meadows, while the River Dun, a typical chalk stream, is home to trout and bullheads, plants such as yellow iris and water crowfoot, and the endangered water vole; birds include kingfishers and reed buntings.
To visit Cobbs Farm Shop & Kitchen (01488 686770), cross the canal via the swing bridge (86) and turn left towards the house. Bear right along the track, cross the footbridge over the River Dun and go through a gate to reach the A4, with the shop opposite; retrace your steps back to the canal (650 metres each way).
Continue straight on to pass Cobblers Lock (72) and a footbridge, then go under the railway bridge and past a lock (71) to reach a minor road bridge (90); from here, a short detour (350 metres each way) to the right along the minor road then left beside the A4 leads to the Pelican Inn (01488 682479, accommodation) at Froxfield. Some 400 metres further on are the late 17th-century almshouses. Originally built to house widows of clergymen, the quadrangle of 50 cottages still provides sheltered housing for women.
The route now leaves Berkshire and continues through Wiltshire, passing three locks (parking at lock 68, SU 299 671) and two bridges to reach lock 67 at Little Bedwyn; just before the lock, the footbridge (93) across the canal and railway gives access to St Michael’s Church.
St Michael’s Church, just off the canal at Little Bedwyn
Little Bedwyn, a small village straddling the River Dun, canal and railway, was known as Estbedwinda in 1177. It is home to St Michael’s Church, dating from the 12th century, some picturesque cottages and an upmarket restaurant, the Harrow. A short way to the west is Chisbury and the remains of an Iron Age hill fort. Within the earthworks, near Chisbury Manor Farm, is the empty shell of St Martin’s Chapel (English Heritage), which dates from the 13th century.
Keep ahead under the road bridge and pass a further two locks to reach the road bridge (95) at Great Bedwyn.
Great Bedwyn has a railway station, shop, post office and two pubs: the Three Tuns (01672 870280) and the Cross Keys (01672 870332). It also has a rather large church, the Church of St Mary the Virgin, which dates from 1092 although most of what is visible dates from the 12th and 13th centuries. Step inside to see an impressive monument to Sir John Seymour, father of Jane Seymour who married King Henry VIII in 1536, becoming his third wife; their son became Edward VI. The church also holds the stone figure of a knight, believed to be Sir Adam de Stokke (d.1313), and the tomb of Sir Roger de Stokke (d.1333), son of Sir Adam.
Continue under the road bridge, past the parking area (SU 280 644), and continue along the south side of the canal for 2.9km, passing four locks to reach lock 60, with Crofton Pumping Station and Beam Engines on the right and Wilton Water on the left; a waymarked path heads south-east alongside Wilton Water to reach the Swan (01672 870274) at Wilton (1km each way). At lock 61, a crossing track follows the course of a Roman road that ran between Venta Bulgarum (Winchester) and Cunetio (near Mildenhall).
Just east of Wilton village is Wilton Windmill. Originally built in 1821, it has been lovingly restored to full working condition and is Wiltshire’s only working windmill. The fantail keeps the sails aligned with the wind, acting as an automatic rudder (01672 870266).
To visit Crofton Pumping Station and