The Korean Kimchi Cookbook. Kim Man-Jo

      SPONGY SEAWEED (GLUE PLANT), CH'ONGGAK

      A maritime algae that has a rich fragrance and a pleasant crunchy texture. It grows on rocks to be as thick as wire and as long as seven to ten centimeters. Because it branches like antlers, it is called ch'onggakch'ae or nokkakch'ae, 'green antler seaweed.' It is usually bought dried and then soaked in water for cooking. A dash of vinegar gives it a liveliness. Spongy seaweed is indispensable in juicy kimchees. It completely dispels the fishy smell of pickled fish and neutralizes the smell of garlic and the taste of excessively strong spices. It enriches the spiciness and fragrance of kimchee and takes away the aftertaste.

      PICKLED AND SPICED OYSTERS, ORIGULJOT

      Oyster dishes in Korea date back to the very earliest times. Today, they are eaten raw or fermented. Since the introduction of chili, Koreans have made origuljot, or salted oysters spiced with red-pepper powder and varied seasonings.

      PICKLED SQUID, OJINGOJOT

      The ten-tentacled squid is also a popular ingredient in kimchee-making. Choose from dried or fresh varieties.

      PICKLED CORBINA, CHOGIJOT

      There are about 13,000 kinds of fish in the world, of which about 350 kinds find their way to the dinner table. Koreans eat 150 kinds, and hold the corbina in high regard. Salted corbina has also greatly contributed to the development of the art of fermenting kimchee. While not authentic, other varieties of salted fish will do at a pinch.

      PICKLED FISH, CHOTKAL