Food of Texas. Caroline Stuart

the air. If you are not using it right away, return the pit to the hollow in the fruit or, if you have made guacamole, nest the pit in the center of it and seal well with plastic wrap, pressing the wrap directly onto the surface of the guacamole. An avocado is ripe when it yields slightly to gentle pressure. To ripen an avocado, put it on a countertop for a couple of days.

      BEANS: Dried beans are staples in the Texas kitchen. Many varieties are used, including pinto, kidney, black beans, and black-eyed peas. Generally, all dried peas and beans need soaking except lentils, split peas, and black-eyed peas. Pick over the beans to remove any misshapen ones or any stones or grit, and rinse well. If soaking, place the beans in a pot and cover with several inches of water. Soak overnight (or quick-soak according to package directions). Drain the water, rinse the beans, and cover with cold water. Heat to boiling, then cover the pot and simmer for several hours until tender, adding water as necessary. Salt should be added after beans are soft. Canned beans can be substituted quite easily if they contain limited additional ingredients. Pinto beans or pink beans are the main ingredient in Tex-Mex retried beans, and baked beans of many varieties are incorporated into picnic and barbecue fare such as casseroles. Black-eyed peas are a southern specialty, finding their way into Texas "caviar" salad, and are considered to bring good luck if eaten on New Year's day. Red beans and rice are eaten in East Texas, and black beans are popular in soup and as a nacho ingredient.

      CACTUS: Several cactus varieties with edible paddles and fruits exist; the prickly pear cactus is among the most common. The paddles (nopales) carry thorns, which must be carefully cut out with a knife. If you are lucky, you will find them sold already trimmed. Otherwise, grasp the paddles with a thick towel or wear a heavy glove. The paddles are generally cut into strips or cubes, boiled until tender, 5 to 10 minutes, and then rinsed well in cold water to remove any sliminess. They are cooked as a side dish; added to stews, scrambled eggs, and other dishes; or added raw to salads. The pear-shaped fruits, which are known as tunas, prickly pears, or cactus pears, have a sweet, fruity flavor and are used in fruit drinks, salads, and sorbets. They are available in cans, frozen, or fresh. The seeds of some varieties are hard and must be strained out.

      CHEESE: A wide variety of cheese is used in the modern Texas kitchen, the more common varieties being Monterey Jack, Cheddar, Parmesan, Mozzarella, and Jalapeno Jack. Lesser-known fresh Mexican cheeses are also becoming more widely available and are worth experimenting with. Of all the cheeses, Monterey Jack is one of the most popular and is sold nationwide; it is a pale, semisoft California cheese with a mild flavor and excellent melting qualities.