"How do patrons react to flowers on their plate?" I asked. "The flowers are a fascination," Alice said. "People really focus on them and are very curious. Some people refuse to eat them, but about half will taste them readily. I like to serve them in such a way that they're tasty and accessible to people; a large flower by itself is a little intimidating. I like to incorporate Johnny-jump-ups or nasturtium petals in salads—or serve them in ice cream or butter."
I gave Alice the list of edible flowers I had compiled and asked her to comment on those she had tried. Her face brightened as she perused the list; she seemed to be able to replay the tastes and feelings of those she had used.
"Calendulas have a real nice flavor," she began. "Not too strong, but kind of peppery—even a little grassy. I use fresh petals in salads, or I like to dry them and use them in soups in the winter. Honeysuckle is good too," she continued. "It's very sweet and tastes just like it smells; it's quite extraordinary in some desserts. You don't need much of it, though, just a little spoonful.
"Lavender is wonderful. You can use it in both sweet and savory dishes, as a marinade for meats, or for lavender ice cream. I'm crazy about nasturtiums too. 'Empress of India,' which has a dark red color, has a spicy, peppery flavor. I enjoy using the 'Alaska' variety in salads because the foliage is so beautiful—variegated green and white. I also use nasturtiums to top soups, salads, or pizzas—for example, smoked salmon pizza. Just put them on top at the last minute so they won't wilt. In butters, the colors and flavors seem suspended.
"And certainly we have to talk about roses and violets. Rose petals are fantastic; they have all different flavors, depending on the variety. On one special occasion I used 'Damask' roses in ice cream and garnished it with deep red-orange 'Joseph's Coat' rose petals that had been dipped in egg white and sprinkled with sugar. Another time I chopped candied rose petals so they looked like little sparklies—very special. I find brightly colored varieties most effective. And we use fragrant violets in late winter; we candy them and then use them to garnish sherbets, or we fold fresh violets into ice cream just before we serve it."
Alice Waters is proprietor of Chez Panisse Restaurant in Berkeley and one of the most influential chefs in the world of fresh produce.
The day I interviewed Alice, a gentleman from Texas called to find out if Chez Panisse was the restaurant that served edible flowers; he wanted to come try some. It seems that people are finding delight in trying new tastes, and Chez Panisse leads the way.
encyclopedia
of edible
flowers
The following entries detail what I consider the most versatile edible flowers. The basic cultural information on preparing the soil, planting, seed starting, watering, mulching, fertilizing, pruning, and controlling pests and diseases are covered in Appendices A and B (pages 92-102).
You may notice that a few species occasionally sold as "edible" flowers—bachelor's buttons, impatiens, and snapdragons—are not listed. There is no evidence in any of the historical or scientific literature to indicate that they are edible. Why then are they regarded as edible? I've been able to trace it all back to an article published in the late 1980s by a very reputable magazine. Upon calling the editor to see where the author had obtained this information, I was shocked to learn that the list came from a young grower who "thought," but had no proof, that these plants were edible. Two other flowers on that infamous list are stock and petunias. Although stock was eaten during famine in southern Europe, the question remains, Why didn't people eat stock at other times? Does it taste bad or does it have long-term side effects? According to Craig Dremann of the Redwood City Seed Company, the Andean Indians used petunias to induce a feeling of flight during their religious ceremonies. Not exactly what you want to feed your family. I also omitted primrose. There is an edible primrose, Primula vera, that is popular in England, but it is seldom ever grown in America.
English lavender and 'Alaska' nasturtiums (left) line my front walk. Apple blossoms (above) are fragrant and tasty spring treats.
Anise hyssop
ANISE HYSSOP
Agastache foeniculum
AN EXCEPTION IN THE HERB world in that it's native to the Western Hemisphere, anise hyssop is one of the most flavorful and interesting edible flowers.
How to grow: This highly ornamental, easily grown herbaceous perennial reaches from 3 to 6 feet and has gray green leaves and striking, dense 1- to 3-inch flower spikes ranging from lavender to white. It is hardy to USD A Zone 4. Start anise hyssop from seeds or divisions, grow it in full sun in average soil, and keep it fairly moist. The plant dies down in the winter and often reseeds itself the next spring. It is bothered by few pests and diseases. Harvest flowers as they appear in the summer.
How to prepare: The young leaves and tiny petals of the sweet flowers have a flavor somewhat between anise and root beer and, if used sparingly, are very pleasant in both savory and sweet dishes. Add the petals to melted butter and serve over grilled mushrooms, use them in a beef stir-fry or a chicken marinade, or include them in a salad dressing. The natural sweetness and many complex flavors give dimension to iced drinks, custard, ice cream and sorbets, and pound cake. A few dried flower heads in the sugar bowl adds flavor to sugar for tea or sugar cookies. See the recipe for Stir-Fried Beef with Anise Hyssop on page 83.
APPLE BLOSSOMS
Malus spp.
APPLE TREES PERFUME THE AIR in spring and glorify the landscape. Capture their fragrance in your desserts.
How to grow: Most varieties of apple trees bear light pink to white flowers in early spring. 'Pink Pearl,' an old heirloom apple available from a few specialty fruit tree nurseries, bears deep pink blossoms. Buy apple trees bare root in late winter (which is when the trees are dormant with soil removed from their roots) and consult a good fruit-growing text for selecting and planting varieties appropriate for your area. Remember to keep the blossoms free of heavy-duty chemical sprays.
How to prepare: Apple blossoms have a slightly floral taste; the petals are lovely in salads, especially a Waldorf salad, or in a cider vinaigrette. Infuse the petals in cream for ice cream or whipped cream to go over an apple tart. You can also crystallize the petals and use them to garnish baked apples drizzled with maple syrup, applesauce, tarts, fruit soups, and French toast or crepes filled with caramelized apples.
'Pink Pearl' apple blossoms (top), 'Golden Delicious' apple blossoms (left), 'Red Delicious' apple blossoms (right)
'Grand Duke of Tuscany' jasmine
ARABIAN JASMINE
Jasminum sambac
JASMINE INVOKES IMAGES of sultry evenings in faraway places.
How to grow: A tender perennial vine native to tropical Asia, Arabian jasmine is hardy only in USDA Zone 10. In all other areas, it can be grown indoors with high humidity in a greenhouse. There are two Arabian jasmine cultivars of merit: 'Grand Duke of Tuscany,' which has intensely