The Chinese adaptation of the Indian religion brought new dimensions of the understanding of the universe and life beyond this one. This new theology was not grounded in the immensity of a cypress tree or the roar of a waterfall. It demanded human-made artifacts: a written text, a myriad of implements, statuary and, grandest of all, huge structures to accommodate believers.
By 596, temple construction had begun. Chinese carpenters were invited to Nara and introduced their techniques to a wonderstruck population. The temples we see today in Kyoto, although fairly faithful descendants of Japan’s 6th–10th century originals, differ greatly from those still in existence in China. Japan’s climate and earthquake-prone land made elevated buildings a necessity. Its rich supply of zelkova, cypress, oak and cedar forests lent itself to increasingly mammoth worship halls as the population embraced the comfort of salvation within a Buddhist paradise.
The vermilion doors of Jikido Hall at Toji Temple, a World Heritage Site, glow in the sunset.
Elaborate metal fret-work marks the eaves of the sloping cypress bark palace roofs. The Imperial chrysanthemum crest and multilayer roof tiles denote the building’s imperial status.
The Phoenix Hall at Byodo-in Temple, a World Heritage Site.
Billowy cherry blossoms and fresh green pines frame the gleaming gold-layered Golden Pavilion (Kinkaku-ji).
A late afternoon visitor poses under the gigantic gate of Nanzen-ji Temple.
Walls are works of art as well as enclosures. The layered earthen clay is interlaced with flat tile work inset with a single rounded tile.
The iconic face of Kyoto streets is its townhouse (machiya). In keeping with neighborhood expectations, Starbucks has opened a branch in a renovated old machiya along the cobblestone slope of Ninenzaka.
A feline resident of the Pontocho geiko district seeks entry into a typical townhouse characterized by a wooden lattice (koshi) frontage, curved bamboo fencing (inuyarai), clay rooftiles aligned in a one-stroke design (ichimonji), and short curtain (noren) that indicates that the shop is open for business, perhaps even furry ones?
Many traditional old homes still exist in the southeastern district of Daigo. Late afternoon sun imbues the wooden structure with warmth.
Not only did places of worship begin to be shaped in Kyoto, but some of the world’s greatest collections of Buddhist images are found here. One of Asia’s most iconic forms, the pagoda, continues to pierce the ancient skyline, serving as a reliquary for Buddha’s remains and as a revered landmark for Kyoto residents.
Abundant forests have long provided Kyoto with wood to build massive temples and the houses of commoners’ alike. The understated beauty that defines the Kyoto townhouse, the machiya, owes much to its reliance on wood, with its rich palette of hues and variety of grains, which residents lovingly buff until the surface gleams. The glow of well- cared-for wood is enhanced by the plaster and earth that form the machiya walls, the paper windows that shield inhabitants from cold, and the woven straw tatami mats that cover most floors.
Much of the present-day iconic design of these townhouses dates from the great Temmei Fire of 1788. The devastation and the need to quickly rebuild huge swathes of the city led to a uniformity of style that has left its imprint on the city.
The architectural layout of most of the inner-city houses features slatted lattice fronts; open clay “windows”; an inner garden; and a long, narrow kitchen with an overhead skylight to admit light and disperse smoke. The curved bamboo fencing along the roadside wall adds an aesthetic element that cloaks its practical function: it once protected the outer clay walls from damage by spoked cart wheels.
It is no wonder that passersby find the exteriors—the dark-stained wooden fronts, quiet sliding entry doors, and undulating tile roofs—visually soothing. Today, however, because so many machiya are being refashioned into shops, galleries, and restaurants, visitors can also glimpse the inner environments that shaped lives with the quality of their space, texture, and soft light—features that reflect the warm, human sensuality of an organic structure.
In keeping with its commitment to preserving local architecture in the vicinity of Kiyomizu-dera temple, Starbucks kept some traditional elements such as a raised tatamimat area with cushioned seating at low tables and paper sliding windows that suffuse the interior with a soft comfortable light, while also providing chairs in another area.
A flowering potted plum bonsai is an inviting addition to Kimata, a well-appointed traditional inn and restaurant of fine cuisine. The added features of bamboo blinds (sudare) and stone lantern (toro) bespeak of its reputation for hospitality and traditional elegance.
The famed designer, Issey Miyake, opened a shop in a 132-yr-old machiya townhouse located on Yanaginobanba Street in central Kyoto. The simple lean lines of the traditional architecture and attractive courtyard garden complement the design sense of the clothing line within.
UNIQUE KYOTO FOOD TRADITIONS
Traditional Japanese cuisine, especially that of Kyoto, is one of the most sophisticated food cultures in the world. Kyoto’s rich food culture dates back a thousand years, with today’s chefs drawing on centuries-old records detailing ingredients and techniques. Specialized food for the old Imperial court and, later, wealthy merchants, was presented, as it still is today, in bite-sized pieces easily handled with chopsticks. Often served cold, it was accompanied by a hot soup and rice.
The fields of Kyoto boast several distinct vegetables, collectively called kyo-yasai. Kyotoites are very familiar with their local produce, and accord it a place of honor in exclusive restaurants and in the homes of discerning epicures.
The soy product tofu is a Kyoto specialty. It is made by soaking dried beans overnight in good quality well water, churning them into a smooth mash, straining and then boiling the resulting soy milk, and adding calcium sulfate to act as a coagulant. The mixture is then poured into block molds to set.
Tofu adopts itself to a variety of dishes. Smooth silky tofu (kinu) is served cold in summer with a dab of grated ginger. A firmer type, momen, is often cut into cubes, simmered in a kelp broth, and then scooped out and dipped into a light soy-flavored sauce. In addition to plain tofu, many of Kyoto’s supermarkets as well as the food courts found in the basements of department