Green onions, also known as scallions, have slender stalks with dark green leaves and white bases. They are sliced and sprinkled generously on soups and other dishes as a garnish.
Kaffir lime leaves are used in soups and curries of Thai, Malay or Indonesian origin. They are also thinly sliced and used as a garnish. Buy them fresh, frozen or dried—fresh or frozen leaves are much more fragrant.
Lemongrass is a highly aromatic herb stalk. The tough outer layers of the stem should be peeled away and only the pale, inner flesh of the thick lower part of the stalk is used.
Mustard seeds are small brownish-black seeds that are commonly used in Indian cooking, imparting a nutty flavor to dishes.
Noodles are a universal favorite in Asia. Both fresh and dried noodles are made from either wheat, rice or mung bean flour. Fresh yellow wheat noodles are thick, spaghetti-like noodles made from wheat flour and egg. Substitute fresh spaghetti or fettucini if you cannot find them. Dried rice vermicelli has very fine rice threads that must be plunged into hot water to soften before use. Rice stick noodles (also known as “river noodles”, kway teow or hofun) are wide, flat rice noodles sold fresh in Asian markets. If not available, use dried rice stick noodles instead.
Tofu or bean curd comes in various forms. Soft tofu is silky and smooth but difficult to cook because it falls apart. Firm tofu holds its shape well when cut or cooked and has a strong, slightly sour taste. Pressed tofu is firm tofu that has been compressed to expel most of the moisture. Tofu skin is the dried skin that forms on top of boiling soy milk; it is dried and sold in sheets as a wrapper, or as tau fu kee, a dried twisted tofu skin added to meat or vegetable dishes.
Oyster sauce is a soy-based sauce with oyster extract. Vegetarians should look for a version sold as “mushroom oyster sauce”
Palm sugar is made from the distilled juice of various palm fruits and varies in color from golden to dark brown. It has a rich flavor similar to dark brown sugar or maple syrup, which makes a good substitute.
Rice wine is frequently used in Chinese cooking. Japanese sake, mirin or a dry sherry may be used as substitutes.
Sesame Oil is extracted from sesame seeds that have been toasted, producing a dark, dense and highly aromatic oil that can be used for marinades, sauces and soups, or as a table condiment. Its nutty, smokey flavor has become a hallmark of north Asian cuisine.
Shallots are small, round onions with thin red skins that add a sweet oniony flavor to countless dishes. They are added to spice pastes or sliced, deep-fried and used as garnish.
Sichuan peppercorns, also known as Chinese pepper or flower pepper (hua jiao), have a sharp pungency that tingles and slightly numbs the lips and tongue, an effect known in Chinese as ma la “numb hot”. To obtain ground Sichuan pepper, simply dry-roast Sichuan pepper-corns in a dry pan, then grind to a fine powder.
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Soy sauce is a fermented sauce brewed from soybeans, water, wheat and salt. Regular or light soy sauce is very salty and used as a table dip and cooking seasoning. Dark soy sauce is denser and less salty and adds a smoky flavor to dishes. Sweet soy sauce is a thick, fragrant sauce used in marinades and sauces. |
Tamarind is the fruit of the tamarind tree seed pot. The dried pulp is sold in packets or jars and generally still has some seeds and pod fibers mixed in. It is used as a souring agent in many dishes. To obtain tamarind juice, soak the pulp in warm water for 5 minutes, mash well and then strain and discard the seeds and fibers.
Wood ear mushrooms have very little flavor and are added to dishes for their crunchy texture and as a meat substitute. They are sold dried in plastic packets in most Asian supermarkets and comes in small, crinkly sheets. Soak them in water before using. Wash well and discard any hard bits in the center of the larger pieces.
Sambal Belachan (Shrimp Paste Chili Sauce)
3 red finger-length chilies, deseeded
1 tablespoon dried shrimp paste (belachan), roasted
1 teaspoon sugar
1/3 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon lime juice
Grind the chilies and belachan in a mortar. Then add the sugar, salt and lime juice, and mix well. Serve in small bowls with Black Sauce Hokkien Noodles (page 54).
Thai Red Curry Paste
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
5 dried red chilies, deseeded and soaked in hot water for 15 minutes
3 tablespoons sliced shallots
8 cloves garlic, smashed 2-3 thin slices galangal
2 tablespoons sliced lemongrass (tender inner part of bottom third only)
2 teaspoons grated kaffir lime rind
1 tablespoon chopped coriander roots
10 black peppercorns
1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste (belachan), roasted
Dry-fry the coriander and cumin seeds in a wok or frying pan over low heat for about 5 minutes, then grind to a powder in a blender. Add the remaining ingredients, except the shrimp paste, and grind well. Add the shrimp paste and grind again to obtain about 3/3 cup (180 ml) of fine-textured curry paste.
Vegetable Dishes
Wok-fried Carrots with Mushrooms
Black Chinese mushrooms have been a mainstay of Chinese cuisine for many centuries. Research has proven what Chinese cooks and herbalists have known since ancient times—that mushrooms give a powerful boost to the human immune system. The carrot, when combined with mushrooms, provides a crunchy counterpoint to the chewy texture of the mushrooms and contributes its own considerable nutritional value to this dish. For some extra color and variety, try adding half a cup of fresh or frozen green peas along with the carrots.
10–12 dried black Chinese mushrooms
2 carrots, washed, grated or thinly shredded
2 tablespoons oil
1 in (2 1/2 cm) fresh ginger, thinly shredded
4 to 5 cloves garlic, minced
2 green onions (scallions), minced
Sauce
2 tablespoons rice wine
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 Soak the dried mushrooms in hot water for 15 minutes, then drain, reserving the liquid. Remove the stems, then slice the caps very thinly.
2 Mix together all the Sauce ingredients in a small bowl and set aside.
3 Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat, then add the mushrooms, ginger, and garlic together. Stir-fry for 2 minutes, then add the sauce and continue